00 1.8 EM light/ECU? - cyclops
My first post after a long time gleaning all the excellent info on these pages and other forums too.
Well here?s my story. I have a vectra 1.8 petrol estate on an x plate (2000 I believe) with an ecotec engine.
About 3 months ago it started with the EM light coming on permanently followed by all the loss of power/cutting out and using far too much fuel. I took it to my mechanic friend, had it read and replaced the mass air and the lambda(?) Sensors. Immediately after this it ran without power fade or cutting out, but he couldn?t clear the codes P0100 and P0110 if I remember them correctly. He told me to get the ECU tested before we go any further as he suspected a fault.
I also had to replace the EGR valve (seized), I got that from a local vx breakers. First one had the wrong plug socket so took it back and got another with the correct socket but underneath the ports are not identical to the original but locate in the same place, so I fitted it.
This was a couple of months ago. Since then having rooted about on here and other forums I have re- earthed the yellow wire from the maf and the brown cable from the temp sensor using the battery negative as earth instead as found here www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=59721&...f
As it stands now, I still have the EM light and still using fuel like crazy. I don?t know the best way to explain this without the correct terms, but I have noticed that when you take your foot off, that moment a few seconds later when the revs sort of cut into idle mode has become really jerky, as it is when you put your foot back down again. Also when coming to a stop, clutch in or out of gear, say to traffic lights, Idle speed is at about 1500rpm until you come to a standstill, then it suddenly drops to normal (most of the time).
That?s about it. Hope There are enough clues.
First thing, after checking the manual, I?ve been treating it as the x18xe1, it has since occurred to me I might have been wrong. Is this the ecotec?, If not I may have the wrong EGR valve and the wrong fix for the mass air etc.
I know I should be getting the codes re-read, and the ecu checked as instructed, but with the temporary lack of funds and not being able to lose the car for a few days I?m trying to exhaust all avenues in the hope I could put it right without having to go through all that and spend a load of cash I haven?t got. Have MOT coming up too.
So my request to all the good folks on here is, HELP! Any ideas fellas.
Cheers, Neil

Edited by Dynamic Dave on 16/01/2010 at 20:19

00 1.8 EM light/ECU? - topbloke
i will help as much as i can but you need to post the correct engine code so we/i know the beast that i am dealing with,Regards TB
00 1.8 EM light/ECU? - cyclops
Hi TB, thanks for the reply. As far as I can tell from the guides in the haynes manual we're talking about x1.8xe1. It has the plastic cover with ecotec written on it if that means anything. What is the best way of id?
00 1.8 EM light/ECU? - topbloke
V5/logbook should have engine number on it next in line would be the car pass next would be dealer/parts dept give them the chassis number and they should be able to search from there lastly and not very scientific look at pictures in haynes manual and do a comparison check or have a look on the vauxhall websites there maybe a picture guide over there
00 1.8 EM light/ECU? - cyclops
Nothing on the v5, never got the car pass, but I've got the owner manual that came with the car. The only 1.8 engine in the tech bit is the 1.8 16v which is the x18xe1. No other 1.8 so asuming I was right all along.
00 1.8 EM light/ECU? - SpamCan61 {P}
I think the reason TB is asking is that 2000 is when Vx. started switching over from the X18XE series to the Z18XE series,which are different in many ways, for starters they have two O2 sensors not one, and are drive by wire. Fault codes are very different IIRC. If you have a throttle cable then it's almost certainly a X18, if there is no cable it's a Z18, probably quickest way of making sure.
00 1.8 EM light/ECU? - cyclops
I can answer that one:-) It has a throttle cable. Anyway,just been onto the dealers. Definitely x18xe1. Phew!
00 1.8 EM light/ECU? - cyclops
Well, a bit of good news. Took it for the codes checking again, the p0100 and p0110 have now gone, BUT been replaced by an O2 sensor voltage code. Obviously means topblokes vx field fix did the job. thank you topbloke.
00 1.8 EM light/ECU? - topbloke
i assume you mean the extra earth that you add in, So what code do you have now or is that sorted ! , Regards TB
00 1.8 EM light/ECU? - vauxhallhead
Hello there folks, I'm new to the backroom but have been a fan of this website for a long time.

I'm sorry to hijack this thread but I've been having pretty much the same problem as cyclops there. This problem has been in my 1999 1.8 16v (x18xe1) Vectra for almost a year now and i have tried many theories and advice from different mechanics. I'm getting the same fault codes, a lack of power and the revs dropping down when the clutch is disengaged. It's also very hard to take off at junctions when biting the clutch as a lot of rev is needed or it will conk out. This doesn't happen in the first minute or so of driving when the management light isn't lit and when the battery terminal is taken off and on i might even get a mile before it comes on again. Firstly i changed the air flow meter then the coil pack along with a service and with good quality spark plugs, but the problem still persisted. I cleaned out the throttle and the EGR unit with no gains and after reading last night about the air flow meter earth fix it appears that a previous owner has already tried this, I went over the connections with a multi-meter and it all seems OK. A few months ago i turned the idle speed up using Autoscanner Opel which sorted out the problem of the car turning off at traffic lights but it still tries to. Now I'm completely stumped. The car is a hazard to drive with this power loss even when overtaking slow moving vehicles. Sometimes you will get a strange 'v-tech' like sensation between 3500 and 4500 revs but dies again after that.
Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
00 1.8 EM light/ECU? - Dynamic Dave
will get a strange 'v-tech' like sensation between 3500 and 4500 revs but dies again after that.

Usual cuprit for that is either the camshaft or crankshaft sensor. I think it's the latter, but can't swear on it.
00 1.8 EM light/ECU? - vauxhallhead
Thanks for the reply Dave. Do You know if there is a way of testing these sensors with a multi-meter or auto scanner opel?
00 1.8 EM light/ECU? - Dynamic Dave
Do You know if there is a way of testing these sensors

Not sure, sorry. Maybe topbloke or someone else knows?
00 1.8 EM light/ECU? - vauxhallhead
Will just have to wait and see. when I'm checking different earthing points around the engine bay the don't seem to be reading full resistance when the car is running but do when the engine is switched off. This could be a normal occurrence, I'm just not sure. At this stage i just don't have a clue where to even begin.
00 1.8 EM light/ECU? - vmturbo

I'd just like to give you my ten-cents worth on this one as Very Expensive Dust could cost you well over £300.

A friend has a drive-by-wire 1.8 16 valve petrol Vectra. It was well maintained and economical. It drove very well and there was no smoke in the exhaust. In spite of all this it was an MOT failure on Emissions. The problem was Oxides Of Nitrogen fractions of one percent too high! Knowing about the Lambda Sensors and thinking that these might be the problem two new ones were purchased at a cost of £90 each. Back at the MOT it was still a fail! A Drive-By-Wire expert was then hired but there were no fault codes present and the Engine Control Unit was deemed to be OK.

As with all computers Rubbish In = Rubbish Out so a new Mass Air Flow sensor was purchased (another £90!) Voila! all came good and the MOT was passed!

The Post Mortem theory is that atmospheric dust burns onto the hot wire in the MAF. This insulates the wire slightly from the airflow so more air is consumed to get the wire to the correct temperature. More air results in a lean mixture and a higher burn temperature. The higher burn temperature produces more NOX.

Allegedly it is possible to clean the hot wire by applying oven cleaner and leaving it overnight. In the morning one washes-off the oven cleaner under the tap. DON'T BLAME ME IF YOU BREAK THE WIRE as steady hands are needed.

Personally I prefer old-time diesels with a jerk-pump!

00 1.8 EM light/ECU? - vmturbo

Bad connections can be an infernal nuisance. Take the Ford Granada Cologne 2.8 that I used to run. Its number one fault was poor charging even after a new Bosch alternator was fitted. It turned out to be a rusted angle bracket, the one that fastens the alternator to the engine block. When it was taken off there were burn marks present!

Now between the negative ends of the alternator diodes and battery negative the electrical path had more than a dozen dubious joints. I took a leaf out the militaries book and regarded these dubious joints as merely fortuitous connections. An earth braid was run from the alternator non-drive end end cap to battery negative and the car was completely transformed! After that modification it started first time every time!

Some of the latest alternators now incorporate an earth terminal on the end cap so that doubtful electrical joints can be bypassed more easily.

Good luck!


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