97 1.4 unable to start the engine - Bluerover

I have a Rover 214, 1997. Basically it wont start. I've changed the fuel filter, spark plugs, ht leads, crank sensor and nothing makes any difference. it varies from not starting at all to starting then cutting out after a few seconds. I've had 3 different people look at it. one suggested the ecu, we got a second hand one but made no difference. someone from the garage said a new ecu is no good unless you have immobiliser box and key fob to match.

They have suggested getting an auto elecy to try and bypass the immoboliser. any suggestions?

i live in the middle of nowhere and not having a car is a nightmare! thanks :D

Edited by Dynamic Dave on 17/11/2009 at 18:48

97 1.4 Rover wont start - bell boy
you need to confirm if you have a spark
and does it have fuel
spark is easy pull a plug put it near the block with the ht lead still on ,see if it sparks
if yes rule ht side out
next can you hear the pump priming when you first put ignition on/ these cars are renowned for burning the priming pump out if you run them out of fuel and they arent too easy to replace either as they arent done via the back seat squab up routine (naughty rover)
you need a rover fault code reader to access fault codes on these and not many people have them so you are in problems
as regards ecu failure,yes it does happen but its the first thing people say when they havent a clue what they are talking about so be prepared to take it with a pinch of salt
sorry cant help more im not a rover man but my monies on a duff pump if your immobilisor is ok (rover remember)
97 1.4 unable to start the engine - ex-Triumph man
Don't forget the inertia switch. This is mounted behind the radio console, adjacent to where your left knee would be. See owner's handbook. Try making sure the button at the top has not popped up. Press it down, you should hear a click, then try starting the car.
97 1.4 unable to start the engine - track
If it occasionally starts I doubt its the ecu at fault, I would be looking at crank sensor followed by distributor + associated components then the coil.
As above though, if you can verify a good spark on cranking it eliminates most the above, not crank sesnor though as that controls fueling. Loosening the fuel line in on the rail will prove if pump is working, you should get a good squirt when cranking. If it just trickles out the fuel line then the pump is lazy. If it doesnt do anything then either the cut off switch or the pump is the most likely suspect.
PS, the immobiliser issue is an easily over come one with a replacement ECU. Get an auto elec to do it for you. I wont disclose details as I dont know who you are.