This spare parts link may help:
www.rootesparts.com/
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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hi, yes, it's the original coil with 12 on the bottom, i've found a website that explains how to test the coil so he's doing that today, also he'll look for a ballast resistor, he wasn't certain if it had one or not.
i'll keep you posted with the results.
many thanx for the replies so far.
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hi, yes, it's the original coil with 12 on the bottom, also he'll look for a ballast
Having said its a 12v coil forget looking for a ballast.
My Ford 1600E had a ballast resistor as I found out and cooked it.
I found out that when the Tacho was removed for repair the car started but as soon as I let go the key it stopped.
I supplied a direct 12V feed and all was happy for a "short" while then cooked coil.
IIRC ballasted coils were 9V or similar or else the concept will not work..
Start up put 12V on the coil but while running the 12V went through the resistor to supply its 9V.
All part of my learning curve.
Haynes and the full Ford manual ( bought at great expense) were useless.
Haynes had just copied the Ford manual.
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Beware of assuming that any new parts you have fitted are good. There are lots of mutterings about poor quality condensors, points, rotor arms etc. I've had trouble with perfect-looking but poorly peforming new bits.
It's also worth making and breaking every connection in the circuit. I had a similar problem with a Minor and it turned out to be corroded spade teminals.
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cliff
What was the full coding and part numbers on the base of that coil? Some ballast coils are still marked 12v. Seems a bit unlikely that it's still got the original after 40 years? [Lucas ones are date-coded.]
The crucial test for a ballast coil is the exact resistence between the two Lucar terminals. Did this coil get hot when running, or when left with the ignition switched on? How hot does the condenser get? Is there any current flow in the LT circuit with the points open? [Do a LT terminal scratch test.]
Is this good spark still apparent when it stops and won't restart? Tried taking the filler cap off?
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seems the car wasn't fitting with a ballast coil after all.
the rotor arm and dizzy cap are the ones on the car pre-problem, he's examined the arm and cap for cracks, the cap looks almost as new, as does the arm.
with one of those little orange spark testers in the circuit the spark is very bright even when misfiring.
he's tried removing one lead at the time, no change.
he hasn't tried another coil yet but he has tested the one he's got and it appears to be fine, coming back with all the right readings etc.
it only gets hot when the engine is running, don't know how hot the condenser is getting, he'll check. there is no current flow with the points open.
whether the coil getting so hot is the route of the problem of a separate problem remains to be seen.
i'll keep you all posted, thanx for your ideas.
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