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Apart from welding ,what is the best M2M Adhesive available over the counter. I am milling/lathing then tapping a bit of Stainless to fit into a handlebar and through it will be secure a grip bar end. I,m thinking Araldite rapid however anyone else used anything else with good results and if so where can i get it.The bar ends weigh about 2 OZ ( rough guess) each.
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JD Weld is great stuff. You mix equal amounts of weld and hardner, then apply it. I bought mine in sparesworld, but I'm sure I've since seen it in Halfords and Wilkos. Definately worth trying, as once its set, its incredibly tough (on the back of the pack, they reckon they repaired a Caterpillar earth mover cracked block with it, take that with a pinch of salt tho!)
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It's JB Weld I think.
www.jbweld.com
I agree, it is phenominal stuff, and not just on metal.
Get the proper 24 hour and not the Rapid stuff.
You can get it in Halfords, Wilkos (used to) etc...
I have used it to seal a cracked aluminium sump.
Broken seat springs using brass tube full of JB Weld and crimped
At work, we also use it on those disc-shaped computer security pads that wire rope goes through.
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JB Weld, as stated.
Fantastic stuff.
I used it to repair my aftermarket motorcycle fairing when a crack propagated from a mounting hole. Rather than just drill a small hole in the end of the crack to stop it going any further, and concerned that if there was stress, other cracks may start, I drilled out the original mounting hole to a larger size. With a simple cardboard former, JB Weld was then poured in and allowed to set, before being machined smooth as if it were metal, redrilled, and painted. Even I can't see where the repair was without removing the mounting bolt to see the different coloured bore of the bolt hole.
Because it has high temperature properties way above other easily available products, I also used it to resecure the glass panel in our previous oven door. After twelve months of use, despite the diffential expansion rates of steel and glass either side, it was still going strong.
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Thanks for the replies, never heard of this adhesive but, i will give it a go.
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This is useful info. I've often looked at this stuff on the shelves but have always been a bit dubious about how mere glue could stick metal together. I have a bike mirror with a stripped thread and I'll try this stuff and see if I can re-tap it.
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the JBWeld websiste is intersting, a similar product that is widely available is Chemical Metal by Plastic Padding (Loctite Group), I have bought some to fill a small gouge in the oil pan of my 7X7R where an Akropovic exhaust spring has rubbed, I also plan to use it to stick a small alu or stainless plate on so as to ensure that the spring does no further damage, will post let you guys know how I get on.
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I have found, In my personal experience, Chemical Metal to be utterly useless.
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Hi RF, What di you try to bond or fill and what problems did you have?
Regards.
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As with RF I have tried Chemical Metal and found it to be useless and assumed metal to metal could not in practice be done.
Will try out the other stuff. Appreciate the information.
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I can see a trip to Halfords coming on ..
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I tried to bond a leaking brass coupling to a copper hot water cylinder.
Mixed as per instructions
It was drained, and the joint was dry
I worked diligently with a stiff then fine wire brush to ensure both surfaces were bright clean.
Was allowed to harden for 24 hours.
The first heat cycle 24 hours later and the CM itself split (it adheared to the brass and the copper but would not thermally expand - so split)
While using it it, It went off very quickly so was difficult to work.
All in all an unsatisfactory experience.
(and you dont want to hear about the brand new tin of paint I junked this w/e after only using a third of it - Horrible stuff!)
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Oh and 48 hours later after it split and the joint leaked again - the CM could be peeled away from the copper with ease.
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If it's not a rude question, copper to brass, why did you not solder? Both very easy metals to solder, no special fluxes required.
Blowtorch to warm to just below soldering temperature, and a 50 watt Weller to do the job. Fixed proper car radiators that way (ie not the silly plastic and aluminim ones you often find nowadays).
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Solder? A large copper water cylinder? to a long copper pipe with a brass fitting on it? with a a 50 watt Weller? big gap to fill?
sorry mate not practical. or possible.
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No, but it's easy to solder with one of those little gas blowtorch things, and they're not expensive. Besides - anything with a big flame on it is good to have in the toolbox, it's dangerous and makes you feel like a real man!
I've glued metal to metal before but it was at work so the procedure is a bit different: Phone up the technical sales desk at Loctite, ask for one of their nice chaps to come down to take a look, he asks the material and how quick it needs to glue and tells you exactly what you need.
After scientific tests with 2 pieces of metal, the Loctite recommended adhesive and a large hammer I can confirm that the glue was stronger than the metal!
You can have a look at www.loctite.co.uk/ and then maybe buy it at www.rswww.com
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I have used chemical metal many times on different metals with no problems.The important thing is to thoroughly clean the metal to remove oxidisation and use an abrasive to provide a key.
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RF
I did say use a blowtorch to just under solder melting point, then a 50 watt Weller can provide the little extra heat with no problem. Spade bit, number 8 temp rating.
Agreed you'll never get there with the iron alone.
I've soldered car rads using this technique (and have one waiting to be done). The advantage is that it is far easier than only using a blowtorch as you tend to overheat and drive the solder out.
I have a fair amount of practice in this I'll admit, I've even soldered a prop shaft together (you learn all sorts of weird techniques with vintage cars).
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As closue to this thread i used "double bond" a 2 part adhesive and it's secure.
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I agree a blowtorch is a handy thing to have.I use mine for all sorts of jobs. Mind you, we once had a delivery of bulk propane in the dead of winter and it was so cold the valves froze on the LPG tanker. I offered the driver a loan of my blowtorch to thaw it out but for some odd reason he wasn't keen.........
Maybe there are limits to what you can do with them!
Graeme :-)
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I too have found chemical metal to be useless. On the other hand I have used JB Weld and it is excellent.
--
\"Nothing less than 8 cylinders will do\"
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the JBWeld websiste is intersting, a similar product that is widely available is Chemical Metal by Plastic Padding (Loctite Group), I have bought some to fill a small gouge in the oil pan of my 7X7R where an Akropovic exhaust spring has rubbed, I also plan to use it to stick a small alu or stainless plate on so as to ensure that the spring does no further damage, will post let you guys know how I get on.
Used CM for this at the weekend, so far so good, seems to have done a great job.
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Hi Chaps, I work for one of the biggest plant hire companies in the uk and in our workshops the fitters quite regularly use JB weld to repair engine blocks/heads and all manner of things that need repairing in a hurry..
This is a excellent repair material, it can be drilled, tapped, filed, painted or do what you want with it and no i don't work for JB weld.
Pastyman....
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Would you recommend JB Weld to attach bar 'handles' to my trailer stand bolts? Do the joints put up with torsion forces?
Currently there is just a bolt head that means I need to carry a spanner everywhere. :-(
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I'd just wind the bolts out and take them with the 'wings' to someone with a welder (of any type) a matter of moments to weld them together.
p.s. Loctite 660 'quick metal' is good for repairing broken bits. ISTR it was designed to repair damaged keyways and has been sucesfully used to repair chewed up crank keyways on early mx5's where the bolt has stretched or come loose and the cambelt pulley has rattled around.
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