|
Whatever you go for, small wheels (no larger than 17"), and nice, deep profile tyres. No 'sport' versions (MSport, S-line, AMG-line, etc) to keep softer suspension.
I'm constantly surprised by how some people complain about noise/hard ride in a car, and you look and see they've got 20" wheels and rubber-band 35-profile tyres fitted
|
|
Exactly - what happened to good old luxury and comfort on higher models in car ranges, but without having to have the (as you say) 'rubber band' tyres? On some makes, your lucky to even have 17in rims as an option at all, let alone 'standard' suspension - with most, you have to go with the Ferrari-chaser driving/ride characteristics to get luxury without bankrupting yourself specifying a lower model with loads from the options list.
I'd rather spend the money on a more luxurious interior and higher-quality (longer-lasting) engineering components that give reasonable-to-good (but not spectacular) handling but with a very smooth ride (and one that doesn't just last 6 months from new), but without the obligatory warp-speed performance. A well-engineered, luxury GT (not necessarily all the toys) is what I would be ideally after, sort of what the old 80s/early 90s Mercedes coupes used to give (then they didn't bother trying to go toes-to-toe with BMW on the performance/handling front [a battle they will never win IMO]).
Its almost as though the manufacturers have 'deals' with tyre and suspension component manufacturers to give them more business and with highway maintenance firms (so they do a half-assed job repairing pot-holes etc so more damage to cars tyre/suspension is done).
Maybe I'm just getting old. I do say 'ahh' when I sit down in my arm chair (not 'wing-backed' as yet - I'm not that old) sometimes!
|
|
It's not a "premium" car but my 2012 Avensis Estate (1.8 Valvematic CVT) is a very quiet place to be, and would be even more so if you went for the saloon rather than the estate. Suspension bias definitely comfy rather than sporty. Just depends if it offers as much performance as you want - 1.8 via a CVT is smooth and pleasant to drive, but it's no ball of fire (or as muscular as a TD of similar capacity would be)
Edited by steelghost on 18/08/2015 at 13:58
|
|
If you have the time and inclination, you can always improve the soundproofing yourself with third party sound matting.
|
|
True, but if you only have the option of 'sports' suspension and 18in+ rims/rubber-band tyres then the ride will still be like driving the Flintstones' car, even if some of the sound is deadened. Quite a lot of 'premium' marques don't allow the 16in (they may allow 17in ones) rims and as such changing to them would invalidate any insurance policy.
I'm also not wholly convinced of having an after-market sound-proofing, not just what effect it will have on the integrity of the exterior material around the wheel wells, but more what it would do to the handling due to the addition of extra weight by the fitting of soundproofing material, especially as it wouldn't have been tested by the car manufacturer or anyone else for your model. Best to have it designed, tested and fitted at the same time as the car is designed and built (probably more cost-effective as well).
Edited by Engineer Andy on 18/08/2015 at 15:40
|
|
Generally, insurers are quite happy if you reduce wheel and tyre size, but it's always worth finding out in advance.
More likely today is that there will be a high minimum size, say 17", due to brake calipers etc.
It can be irritating to find that large wheels and low profile tyres are categorised in the same way as climate control and an engine with over 150 bhp, which is ridiculous.
The quickest Beemers of 25 years' ago (say a 325i) had 14" wheels, and a 55% or 60% profile. Today? More likely 19" and 40% or 45%.
Certainly not progress, unless you only drive like The Stig on test tracks flat out.
|
|
Oh, another thing. While I've previously mentioned avoiding anything 'Sports' or with very large wheels, you also need to avoid anything in the 'Eco' ranges. Which usually, although they have small roadwheels, have very stiff sidewalls so that they have less 'flex' in the tyres, meaning less in contact with the road, meaning better CO2 figures.
|
|
|
|
Maybe they think anyone buying a 'sport' model will be taking their car on track days, rather like anyone buying a 4x4 will be doing so because they regularly drive off road (as opposed to across 20m worth of school playing field for the twice-a-year car boot sale) or optional extras for boot spoilers because if gives them noticeably more 'downforce'.
What happened to the 'luxury' (only) models with a comfortable ride? All I want is a bit of poke, not F1-chasers with rims designed for a rap artist's music video.
|
Maybe they think anyone buying a 'sport' model will be taking their car on track days, rather like anyone buying a 4x4 will be doing so because they regularly drive off road (as opposed to across 20m worth of school playing field for the twice-a-year car boot sale) or optional extras for boot spoilers because if gives them noticeably more 'downforce'.
What happened to the 'luxury' (only) models with a comfortable ride? All I want is a bit of poke, not F1-chasers with rims designed for a rap artist's music video.
Yes, that bugs me as well - taking the Focus as an example, I can understand why the RS has silly low-profile tyres for ultimate grip but to me the Titanium X should have the smallest rims/highest profile tyres that'll fit over the brakes.
But that doesn't sell cars, which is why Ford put unsuitable bling on versions that don't need it so that they will sell well.
There's nowt so queer as folk !
|
|
|
|
|
I'm also not wholly convinced of having an after-market sound-proofing, not just what effect it will have on the integrity of the exterior material around the wheel wells, but more what it would do to the handling due to the addition of extra weight ...
Really? I'm no expert in this field, but I would have thought that if any added soundproofing amounted to the weight of an extra passenger, it would reduce the volume of the loadspace considerably? You must mean exterior soundproofing - even so?
|
|
No - I mean if, to install sound-proofing material in between the plastic (or whatever that black pretend-roof felt material is in wheel wells) you see in the wheel well (as well as the painted metal) means that you, post build of the car, have to take it out, then install the sound proofing then put it back, the likelihood is that the seals between each part of the outer casing may be compromised, rather like taking a TV remote control to bits to fix it (you have to [mainly] jam the plastic open rather than remove screws to get to the circuit board on those) and finding gaps or it fits loosely when you put it back together.
I have no idea what the consequences are of putting the sound-proofing material in as regards space behind - it depends upon whether there's a gap between the plastic wheel well cover/casing and the metal chassis or not. If you have to put the material on the outside of the existing plastic well cover, that might interfere with the wheel turning and would effectively only be glued to the wheel well, carrying the danger of it falling off due to effects of varying temperature and dampness. Also, it would have to be permanently removed if it got in the way of any work that might need to be done by a mechanic.
All rather pointless if you ask me.
|
|
|
|
|
|
