JB Weld - Testing High Temp Epoxy - edlithgow

For spark plug hole thread repair.

Since it’ll contaminate the surface and block alternatives, worth confirming its temperature resistance before application, if possible.

I used ring-pull tabs from Budweiser beer cans (“the King of Beers” yeh, right) as standard test pieces, which seemed somehow appropriate for testing
“All American” JB Weld.

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They have an unpainted aluminium side (which was the gluing surface) and a black painted side, (which I used for IR thermometer upper surface readings, likely to be considerably lower than the temperature in the join).

Two tabs were glued face-to-face, and after curing for 48 hours (24 for rubber and superglue tests) the join was put under shear stress with a weight pulling the tabs apart, and heat was applied with 2 soldering irons (a 60W and a 40W) in contact with the underside of the tabs.

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A naked flame (from a candle or cigarette lighter) was found to blow around and give erratic temperature readings so was not used in the tests

The tabs are not perfect for the job, since the edges are crimped over and there is a slight dimple on the surface. For these tests I hammered them flat, washed them with boiling water and detergent and then brake cleaner, rubbed them on a brick, then with a stainless steel wire brush.

This probably introduces uncontrolled variation. If I was doing it again, (not planned) I would skip the hammering and brick rubbing steps

Results

Nan Pao Impact adhesive

Joints all fail immediately or in less than 30 seconds after coming under load.

Superglue Cyanoacrilate Failure Time/Max Observed Surface Temperature

1: 3 mins 18 secs at 39C
2 : 2 mins 56 secs at 33C
3: 3 mins 20 secs at 35C

JB Weld

  1. No fail in 15 mins/51.9C
  2. No fail in 15 mins/45.7C
  3. No fail in 15 mins/53.2C

In my hands these (cheapo hardware store) soldering irons give insufficient heat for reliable soldering, so I repeated the tests with a 100W (cheapo hardware store) soldering iron which was easier to arrange (and probably also gave more consistent, though not necessarily greater, heating).

For this series I also measured the temperature of the exposed part of the iron, which reached a maximum of around 150 to 170C.

JB Weld test pieces used previously (and therefore high temp cured) were compared with Bondite epoxy,

No failures in any samples during a maximum of 40 minutes heating.

Superior heat resistance of JB Weld over Bondite is thus uncomfirmed ATPIT, (would require higher temperatures) but Bondite is a “fast” epoxy (4 mins) so gives insufficient working time and is probably weaker. This seems to be the norm for readily available epoxies.

I would need to figure out greater (but controlled) heating for testing to destruction. GF has an inductive hot plate that might do, but she would probably miss it.

JB Weld - Testing High Temp Epoxy - craig-pd130

I've seen JB Weld repairs on motorbike crankcases hold up after several thousand miles, it is very strong stuff. As always, the key is surface preparation, it has to applied to a clean and totally grease-free surface (a good couple of sprays with brake cleaner usually works).

JB Weld - Testing High Temp Epoxy - edlithgow

I've seen JB Weld repairs on motorbike crankcases hold up after several thousand miles, it is very strong stuff. As always, the key is surface preparation, it has to applied to a clean and totally grease-free surface (a good couple of sprays with brake cleaner usually works). .

Thanks. Encouraging, though crankcases probably dont get as hot as spark plug holes.

Non-inductive hotplate in combo with a trad copper soldering iron intended for use with a blowlamp gets test piece up to 150-200C, probably about the righr ball park. No fail of Bondite sample in 40 mins.

Indiv testing takes too long but I should be able to set up parallel testing when I get back on it.

JB Weld - Testing High Temp Epoxy - galileo

J B weld's website shows the High Temp epoxy code (8297)as suitable up to 260 C, but there is an Extreme Heat version (code 37901) which is claimed to be good up to 1300 C for repairs to iron,steel etc.

Probably not widely available (if at all) in your location.

Good luck with your planned repairs.

JB Weld - Testing High Temp Epoxy - paul 1963

Personally I think it's a none starter, it may well resist the heat, it'll be protected by the plug after all, think the trouble you'll have is trying to cut a new thread, there simply won't be enough surface area for it to bond too and resist the cutting action of the tap.

Can't believe there isn't a local machine shop that couldn't fit a helicoil for you, it really is the proper way to do it tbh.......

You haven't yet told us what you intend to do about the scored cylinder liner yet, think that could be a bigger problem to solve, have you found oversize pistons and rings and a full gasket set?

Maybe we could start a 'go fund me' page entitled " let's get Ed a new car" !!!

Edited by paul 1963 on 12/05/2023 at 12:44

JB Weld - Testing High Temp Epoxy - edlithgow

Personally I think it's a none starter, it may well resist the heat, it'll be protected by the plug after all, think the trouble you'll have is trying to cut a new thread, there simply won't be enough surface area for it to bond too and resist the cutting action of the tap.

Can't believe there isn't a local machine shop that couldn't fit a helicoil for you, it really is the proper way to do it tbh.......

Could be. If it doesn't work a thread insert will be just as available as it ever was.

If tapping doesn't work, casting threads around a suitable greased bolt (if I can get one) might be an option, though might end up plugging the hole permanently.

Aftermarket heads are allegedly 100US. Normally this would be unbelievable, but there was a Charade clone big in China, so maybe just possible. Unfortunately the engine number is on the head, probably precluding a swap in Taiwan.

There may well be machine shops that would do an insert, but I dont know them, and might not trust them if I did. Certainly DIYing it seems to have many screwup possibilities, notably the free hand drilling.

Re it being "the prop[er way to do it", aside from, tbh, not giving a tinkers damn about the "proper" way to do anything, I'd say it was analagous to doing a dental implant without trying a filling first. Would seem rather improper behaviour in a dentist.

Literalising that analogy, I wonder how dental amalgam would do in this sort of application? Probably rather hard for a lay punter to source, but would be quite interesting to test it. Mysterious stuff..

JB Weld - Testing High Temp Epoxy - edlithgow

Couldn't find anything on temperature resistance of dental amalgam, which won't of course be relevant in your mouth.

Apparently removed fillings are/were often disposed of as general clinical waste, which is incinerated, and fillings are not generally removed from corpses before cremation.

Pretty sloppy.

JB Weld - Testing High Temp Epoxy - Andrew-T

Apparently removed fillings are/were often disposed of as general clinical waste, which is incinerated, and fillings are not generally removed from corpses before cremation.

Some time ago I asked my dentist whether gold fillings were recovered from crematoria. He said he had never thought about the question, but I would have thought it might be worth doing ....

JB Weld - Testing High Temp Epoxy - edlithgow

Apparently removed fillings are/were often disposed of as general clinical waste, which is incinerated, and fillings are not generally removed from corpses before cremation.

Some time ago I asked my dentist whether gold fillings were recovered from crematoria. He said he had never thought about the question, but I would have thought it might be worth doing ....

I'm sure that's done, at least "unoficially" sometimes, since it'd involve personal gain.

Stopping toxic mercury going up the chimney probably only involves environmental gain (since I doubt amalgam fillings are profitable to recover) so its much less likely to be done, unless its illegal not to, with a likliehood of prosecution for non-compliance..

Edited by edlithgow on 14/05/2023 at 13:47

JB Weld - Testing High Temp Epoxy - edlithgow

..

You haven't yet told us what you intend to do about the scored cylinder liner yet, think that could be a bigger problem to solve, have you found oversize pistons and rings and a full gasket set?

Re the scored cylinder {which I dont think is quite accurate. "pitted" would be closer) I'm probably not going to do anything.

It wasnt using a lot of oil or noticably down on compression before this unfortunate series of events, so unless the damage is very recent, which I have no particular reason to believe, it wasnt apparently having much functional impact.

Assuming there isn't an invisible crack or perforation due to cavitation damage in the water jacket (which it does rather resemble) it might be OK on reassembly.

I doubt the "proper" rebore you imply by your list of bits is a realistic option.

Long time ago I had a clutch slave cylinder fail on my 1800 Marina. While I was kangarooing home without a clutch I broke a piston ring, which scored the bore and ring land and put quite a lot of dents on the piston crown (which fortunately was partly protected by deposits from leaded petrol)

I replaced the broken ring and clutch slave cylinder, gave it a decoke, re-ground the valves, and put it back together. No new head gasket, or anything else.

Worked fine until a rotted spring hanger bracket got it, maybe a year or two later.

Edited by edlithgow on 13/05/2023 at 07:58

JB Weld - Testing High Temp Epoxy - edlithgow
Replacing a cylinder liner might be possible DIY though, though not trivial, and they seem to be available from the PRC.

Wouldn’t absolutely rule that out in the future, if there is a future.

I had a contact in NCKU Semiconductor Physics who could have scored me some liquid nitrogen, but he retired and I havnt heard from him for a while. Better ask.