October 2009

Imyself

..but I haven't got a bike yet!

Its really money, though recently things have changed and I'm looking at getting a bike within weeks.

Can anyone suggest a problem with this? Since I've heard two people say my bike licence has been made invalid as I haven't had a bike since passing my test.

But I have searched high and low on the internet and *not* found ANY thing to back this up. I'll be gutted if this is true but as far as I thought it referred to learners not taking their main test since passing their paper/theory test.

If anyone does know the answer, can you please supply a government link or dvla link, I'll probably ring the dvla tomorrow and see but since almost every question has been asked on google/the net, and I haven't found any similar evidence, but til then my gut is turning over.

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alfatrike

have you added the full entitlement to your licence? if you don't send off your pass certificate within 2 years (i think) you loose it

alf

the_bandit

Fellow Back Roomers,

I had two rear tyres replaced this evening on Mrs Bandit's car. First tyre replaced fine but second one wouldn't hold an airtight seal.

The tyre fitter could see no signs of damage to the wheel or the tyre so decided to use a black coloured sealant. He said that they use this on older wheels that have rust around the rim preventing a first time seal.

The wheels in question here are steel wheels and 4 years old. No signs of corrosion.

My question is does anyone have experience of this tyre fitting method and put my mind at rest that there will be no problems with this?

Thanks. Read more

Dynamic Dave

Yep, had a tyre sealed on the rim of a wheel using the black goo. It didn't work though as there was still an amount of flaky paint on the inner rim of the alloy wheel which meant that a proper seal couldn't be made. In the end I removed the flaking paint with one of those wire brushes you use in a drill, feathered the edges and made good with silver smoothrite. Result, no more leaking between the tyre and rim of the wheel.

Rudedog

I've just watched tonight's University Challenge and they had a set of questions on post war cars that have won Le Mans.

Mr Paxman showed the team a picture of the latest TDi Audi to have won, the captain answered that it was the "Audi R10", well done I thought, but no, apparently according to UC it was a R8!, I hope they don't loose by 5 points. Read more

cheddar

UC are wrong then, its an R10 or R15.

magchas

HI. I have a heater Slider switch which, when i switch on the ignition and slide the heater control from the off position, will sometimes start to blow ,and other times will not,no matter which position of the on off range the control is at.

When Slider is not working I notice that the rear screen heater switch does not illimunate either,and when the fan starts to blow again,I then have the rear window heater again.

Could anyone throw some light on this pls.(I have checked all fuses, all there is OK.and
The heater is ok, heats up and cools down as expected.

Thanks in advance. Chas. Read more

dennis29101966

hi there

i am looking to fix this problem,i have bought a relay kit prewired but it says that 85 is the earth but the diagram is for front fog or driving lights.i am happy to do it your way this is y i am seeking your information.i understand the permanent and the earth supplies.and if i am right in saying that 85 goes to a switched supply i.e. when you turn the key to the first mark and it becomes positive,as for the lost feed can you explain how to find this one,this will be much appreciated regards dennis

inspire90

Hi Guys. I just recently changed the thermostat in my freelander and parked it up for a while. I decided to start using it and filled it with coolant, as the engine gets warm, pressure starts to build in the headertank and as it gets hot the coolant start to escape through the cap, but the radiator is stone cold.
The top hose that goes into the rad is piping hot and the bottom hose is cold as well.
Sometime the fan cuts in, some time it doesn't.
Your advice will be really appreciated.
Thanks a million. Read more

Dave N

I seem to remember when these first came out, being at a LR dealership. The only way to fill the system was with a vacuum machine. So if your man is right, then he won't be able to get enough vacuum to pull in the coolant.

The other problem, was if this wasn't done properly and quickly, and the engine was run before all the air was out/coolant was in, then a headgasket failure could well occur within a few minutes.

TimOrridge

1.9 turbo diesel Audi 80 1994 I'm posting on behalf of a friend who is having a problem

The cylinder head was removed and replaced due to suspect head gasket which turned out to be fine. The car did not initally start. They primed the fuel system to being fuel from the tank and it still did not start. They then attempted to start the car with an aerosol type easy start product into the air intake, the car started and ran like normal after that. They stopped the engine and now it wont start again. When any attempt start the car, clouds of white smokeare emitted which I imagine is unburnt fuel and air?

They fear that they have damaged the air mass meter by using the aerosol and just looking on here for opionions and help please? Read more

TimOrridge

bump

ClimbingKid

Just thought you may all want to know that an email address, very specific to this site and only used on this site about 4 times last year has today been bombarded by phishing emails.

My profile has always been set to not give out my email address so its not been obtained that way. This would suggest that user information has leaked from this site.

The fact I was able to have my password emailed to me also suggests that passwords are stored in a non-hashed format, ie not protected at thier end - very unsual these days - this would suggest that if email addresses have leaked, so have passwords.

I have tried to contact the administrators but they have not replied so please be aware.

Regards

CC Read more

Archie35

Whenever I sign up for membership of a website such as this one, I use a unique e-mail address (eg for this site, the address I used was honestjohn@my domain dot com). I have today started to receive phishing e-mails addressed to this specific (honestjohn) e-mail address - which has never been given out to any other website. In other words, some or all of the Honest John membership details, including e-mail addresses, has been stolen or leaked.

Moved from Computer Related Questions. smokie, Moderator

T.T

i just changed my brake cylinders on my van. i've blead both rear brakes. now sometimes usually when i start the van and go the pedal goes hard and i have near enough no brakes. but then they go back to normal ??? any ideas wud be great cheers

{if you let me know what model of Van, I can edit into the header for you - DD} Read more

Peter.N.

I would agree with the vacuum idea, sounds as though the servo isn't working.

maz64

Stepson just got back from 2 week holiday abroad to find a London Congestion Charge NIP waiting for him, and the 2 week £60 payment option expired 2 days ago ie. he now has to pay £120.

Does the fact that he was away when it was delivered mean he can still pay £60? Read more

Altea Ego

Confirm you get a stamp in thailand, Square on entry and triangular on departure

Rattle

They found a lot wrong with it but its all silly things and stuff I have suspected anyway here is the jist of it

1) Brake noise caused by new pads being too big for the old discs which is rusted on the outside, they said no need to change yet as they are working fine but they should really be fixed but brakes are working fine so this can be left as the original discsare still within the correct thickness and the new pads have plenty of friction on the.

2) They found one of the rear shocks to be leaking. This dosn't surprised me as the ride can be very bouncy made a thread on this before.

3) Four x main seals leaking (what are these?) and sump seal. As the oil leak is very very slight (about 50ml a year) I don't know if this is anything to worry about or even an MOT failure?

4) Antifreeze too weak even though I had this changed just two months ago

5) Recomend rear Sca? what the hell is this? Was in brakes section

6) Cable ties holding air meter on - hahaha its my wonderful handy work but does the job perfectly. Should change them though really

7) Rear washers not working - pipe split in tailgate - not an MOT issue so will leave it for now.

8) One tyre down to 3.3mm (advisory) and spare flat. I had always intended replacing this tyre soon as its a cheap make anyway.

9) On the way to dealer I noticed a slight clonk in the steering. I didn't mention this but they have listed a CV boot which is perished and split so I am assuming its just that.

The only part of my car which they gave a green light to is the gearbox engine and clutch which they said all sounded healthy and worked perfectly.

It is a big list but I don't think it will cost that much. My plan is to use the bus for the rest of the day and then tomorrow get a quote for two new rear shocks and CV boot. Then I will get the oil leak looked at followed by a new tyre so the 3.33mm one can replace my spare.

I will then go to the exhaust place and insert a large garden gnome in them, I am still fuming about this.

I reckon it should all cost well under £200 and it should mean my car will fly through the MOT in Feb .

I was impressed for two reasons 1) it was free 2) they just gave me a price list for the parts needed and said give us a ring if you wanted to do any work. They were not in the slightest bit pushy. Also the things they found wrong were all the stuff I suspected the only new bit being the CV boot. Read more

Rattle

Ita a Dennis Alaxandra Enviro 400 :).

0-60 in about two years and around 6mph :).

So far my bus journeys have been quite easy but now got to get to two places with no direct connection so I guess its a lot of walking tonight :(. Furthest walk will be four miles :(.

Got a quote for two new shock absorbers, a new CV kit which includes the joint and boot for £200. I have decided even though I might not need a new CV joint I may as well just get it done as it will be cheaper than having it fail on me in two months time like my dads has done.

We have two cars out there, both off the road due to CV joint problems :(.

I am not sure I will get the £200 much cheaper so I will probably just go with it and swollow the £120+ labour bill. Checked at my local colleges for maintance courses but they only do proper full time courses :(.

After I get shocks and CV done I need to sort out my tyres :(. I may flip and announce I have just bought a 1978 Rover SD1 one tomorrow :p: