December 2007
I was aware of the this potential problem with 1.6 HDi s (2006) but would welcome any comment
Having suffered this indignity under warranty, my local main agent insisted that they have to have the vehicle to take the sump off to recover the bit. They also warned me that to drive it to them was at my own risk and that I should have it recovered on a trailer at my cost.
As I was short of time (going away the following day, but not with the car), I elected to accept the risk and drive it to them.
I have now got the car back with new dipstick of different design (orange top, nylon round cross section flexy piece, and an 'attached' calibrated section). The original one was all yellow but apparently constructed in one piece, and it it failed where the cross section change from square to round, at the start of the calibrated section.
My questions are;
Do they actually take the sump off - or just bill Citroen for the labour? Looking at the oil I dont belive it has been changed, or would they reuse the old oil?
Are the new designs any more reliable?
Is there any history for the end finding its way into the oil pump (unlikely?) blocking oilways, or lunching the crankshaft? Hence the not drive warning.
The only good thing about the whole affair was the initial telephone conversation with the female Service receptionist. She was aware of some Citroen owners having "the end fall off", but, "I have not had the personal experience of it"
Any comments?
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pmh (was peter)
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Hi,
I have a 1995 Xantia turbo diesel which has a strange electrical fault with the heater blower.
If I turn the ignition to the dash lights come on the heater blower always works, as soon as I start the engine it stops. If I switch off/on quickly it usually comes on but can go off again. Sometimes it will restart on a journey but rarely.
Has any one else had the same problem? Any ideas or checks to make would be very gratefully received.
Merry Christmas, Ian Read more
hi there can you send me the fan mod to my email address
thanks terry
EEEEEK!!!!!
It certainly sounds like the starter motor on my 03 2.0TDCi Mondeo is screeching again. It screeches just the once when it does screech, but then turns over the engine on the second attempt. Also, it does not screech every time, i.e., only when the engine is very cold. Even after only a 1.5 mile trip the restart is okay.
The current starter was brand new in April and so is at least is still under warranty. I do hope it is not a disintegrating flywheel.
With any luck it is either a duff starter or the current road and temperature conditions have caused the starter to lose its lubrication. Read more
>>New clutch at £150 and new slave cylinder at £125.>>
Despite the fact that the clutch in mine is fine at 125k I agree with others and would have the clutch done in a 70k car while it is apart.
After all you are saying that you plan to keep it.
I am having problems with my LPG conversion now 18 months down the line.
My agent tells me that there may be a problem with the gas melting the flexible
pipes, this seems to have raised its ugly head in Holland and I am told that we in the
UK export 3 million tons of gas.
The answer that I am looking for is there a problem with the pipes or is it the gas
that is causing the problems also has any one else heard of this or had problems.
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It's not the kit, it's the installers who give LPG a bad reputation. A lot of them are the 'a bit dodgy' types aka 'entrepreneurs' in this country of poor motor industry regulation. But is it any different to the rest of the industry? My first auto re-build was done by a guy who I later found had no formal training and when I started getting serious about the re-builds failing every 2K or less, he packed up and opened a curry house in an old pub. Now he's hiding in Spain scamming ex-pats. BTW I found proper 'Jubilee' clips to be better and stronger than the permanent gas collars/tabs/eared fixings that were on the conversion by the LPGA(ha!) approved garage. There's still no substitute for the human brain and common sense (genius in it's everyday clothes) ... yet!
Hello,To cut a very long story short I only have £2000 - £2500 max to spend on a diesel car, what would be a good choice? I have had no experience of japanese diesels are these cars any good and above all reliable? Thank you
I have previously had...
Citroen BX's - brilliant cars but old now
Citroen ZX - good cars but old
Peugeot 306 - used lots of oil
Peugeot 406 turbo - turbo fault
Renault Scenic - too many faults Read more
Octavia TDi - it'll be the pre PD version which is known to go on and on and on......
Manufacturer: Vauxhall.
Model: Astra.
Type: Estate.
Fuel: Dual fuel - LPG/Petrol.
Trim: Elegance.
Engine: 1600cc.
Registered: 2003.
Mileage: 50k.
Just had the car inspected and given a full service by a Vauxhall dealership.
When I gave them the car (bearing in mind I have just purchsed it) I gave them the RAC inspection report and the MOT certificates.
The dealership have just called asking if I had the advisory that should have been with the MOT.
I was not given it when I purchased the vehicle and not having seen the new MOT certificate before I did not know what an advisory notice (marked yes on the cert') was.
Just come off the phone having spoken with VOSA. VOSA have told me that the advisory given was for - excessive wear pads, discs shoes and drums.
RAC report states: BRAKES 'Service check wear recommended'.
Vauxhall dealership are telling me front discs are 60% worn with 2 deep scours on each disc and the drums are 40% worn but no scouring. They have told me if they had of tested vehicle it would have failed on and only these faults.
How much life is left in the discs and drums? I don't drive on the brakes or heavy and the vehicle never tows anything.
I am looking at a parts & labour bill in excess of £300 on a car I have had less than 31 days...
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Dealership have just called me.
They have negotiated a price with my local garage to do the work in full and they will pay for that work!
My Christmas has just arrived as the monies I had been holding aside for repairs to this car are now mine to use as I should be!
It has been an up hill struggle to get here today - the dealership has agreed to complete all faults and repairs so it shows that they are a reputable, if awkward at at times, company to deal with.
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Gonna lock this now but will copy over to here any responses Hugo.
Me and my partner and thinking of buying a toyota rav4. what i am after from you guys is any experiences you have had or any advice from a personel level.
we have seen a 2002 3dr diesel (d-4) but it is £6500, but petrols are going for around £4000.
Is the extra cost justified. girlfriend will be main user of the car. her work is a 15 mile round trip -5 days a week, but we do go to southampton about twice a month to see family and friends, which is a 140 mile round trip each time.
any advice is much appreciated
Merry christmas Read more
I have owned two post 2000 Rav4's, and both were 2.0L petrol auto's. Yes they do rattle, initially there was a problem with a plastic cover over the battery which would rattle against the metalwork below the windscreen. Eventually cured with foam tape in a few strategic positions. Other rattles did occur from time to time. IMHO this vehicle is over rated.
Check here tinyurl.com/5fn6g3 for all you need to know about the Toyota RAV4 from other owners. This is an excellent source of info.
I have looked at many 4x4s. i find the discovery 3 to be really capable with the wading depth being 700mm however the reliability issues kind of mess the whole idea of getting one. what do you think??? i have then come to the Japanese rivals shogun and land cruiser which also have a 700mmm wading depth. the land cruiser technically provides better economy at 31 mpg. according to my research i could be wrong what would you say is a good 4x4 which offers more than 650mm wading depth and has decent or excellent reliability.
thank you Read more
Dont think any 4x4 is going to win any beauty contests, however some of the Far Eastern efforts have been quite awful looking.
If you forget looks for a minute, if you want image its going to have to be Land/Range rover or BMW or Merc. Nothing wrong with these but don't expect them to be still pounding away at 10 years old, without huge bills.
Servicing costs on these need investigating first, so do Mitsubishi.
Ignore completely at your peril the recommendation of some of these makers that their auto boxes never need to have fluid change.
If image is less important, then the 2 manufacturer's are Toyota and Nissan, and if money is no object Merc gelanderwagen (bet that speelings wrong).
Nissan Patrol is one of the toughest and most capable vehicles you can buy, and very good value.
Toyo's Landcruiser is top rate as well, but will be more expensive as has more kudos on the school run.
More reasonable size than amazon and patrol, and just as capable.
Toyo 3 litre engine very torquey and reliable (max torque from 1400 rpm), and very cheap easy cam belt change (get a cambelt change quote on any vehicle you are considering)
Amazon is probably the best 4x4 made, but in Europe we get the 100 model with air suspension, and it can be expensive to put right when the sphere's start to go (when they get bad they bounce around like worn out xantia's) think thousands for 4 sphere's. The susp sensors dont like salt either 3 x £250.
The best Amazons are the 105 model which goes to the more demanding and less image conscious parts of the world, this is basically the 100 model we get here but with the old coils spring suspension and live fron axle from the old 80 series.
Phoned my wife's insurance company yesterday to add my daughter as a learner from her 17th birthday.
Car is a 2001 VW golf 1.4 so nothing fancy, wife has several years protected NCB, schoolteacher, low mileage, so no great risk there. We have been with them, and the company they took over, for about 25 years always happy with price, service etc.
So how do you lose a customer? You tell them it will cost £3000 per year to add a 17 year old girl as a learner using the car for a bit of practice.
24 hours later we are now with Elephant. Customer loyalty has its limits. Read more
Surely you can keep with the same broker
no broker involved, we have always dealt directly with the insurance company in question as they used to have a special deal with my wife's teaching union
Maybe a supplementary question, do most people use brokers? are we unusual in not doing so for normal insurance business.
Interestingly we have used brokers for both classic and disabled/converted car insurance
Browse
A good evidence based solution! I cant get it over the pit a the moment (probably for several months) and the engine under tray disguises it pretty effectively anyway for a ground level view. However the undertrays have a reputation for falling off once they have been off as nobody in the trade can fix them back properly. So if it falls off I may have the answer.
The only thing to actually break in 21 months - so far. Very un-citroen reputation like. Touch wood, cross legs, fingers, and anything else..........
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pmh (was peter)