December 2007
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Hi all
Ive recently purchased a 306 2.0 hdi W(2000) which is giving me approx. the same fuel consumption as my old 2.0 xsi , Im driving the car in the same way (economically) on the same route and im still getting about 130 miles from 20 litres. the mpg has remained the same during the past few months and has not deteriorated.
i took the car to a peugeot garage and they ran their diagnostics and found the following:
"Investigate excessive fuel consumption. Checked to find no fuel leaks, checked ecu memory to find multiple faults in system which may contribute to excessive fuel use. parts and prices listed below
air flow meter. £106.25
low pressure fuel pump. £220.83
accelerator pedal sensor. £93.94"
I dont like the fact they used the word MAY above, and various sources have told me that these diagnostic checks are not always 100% accurate, so im a bit wary on forking out so much money if im not certain its going to fix the problem.
1. Has anyone out there had something simular or does anyone know if changing any or all the above would solve the problem?
2. Does anyone know where i could find these components, ive read that the air flow meter and accelerator pedal sensor are in the electrical control system, is that the box which holds the ECU?
3. Where can i obtain these parts?
Thanks in advance Read more
Hi,
I don't think so, it coasts OK and moves easily with the handbrake off on a slight slope.
What are the symptoms of fake MAF sensors please?
Thanks.
Steve.
My scenic (52plate) all of a sudden began to lose power. This happened in every gear but was only happening when the revs were low. It felt like an engine coil had gone (had that bother before) so I called out the AA. He plugged in his computer but no faults came up. He also said if it were a coil it would happen all of the time and not just when revs are low.
I had it to the dealer who for a few reasons (did service first rather than fix problem)never got round to looking at this problem and as I needed my car over xmas holidays I had to take it back before they looked at the problem (for them to fix it they would have had it in over xmas). Since then it has worsened. When idling the engine is shaking and the lose of power happens all of the time.
The engine managment light came on flashing but now has gone off and no warning lights are coming on now.
I am pretty poor with cars so any help would be great. I will be booking car back in with dealers first thing tomorrow but would love to have an incline to what the problem may be before they shock me with an expensive solution.
Thanks in advance.
Michael Read more
And a Happy New Year to your dealer by the sound of it!
Ron
Does anyone know if the Gamma radio in my 02 Golf will "remember" its code if I disconnect the battery? The manual says some models have "convenience coding" whereby if it's the original radio (it is) the car somehow recognises the unit and you wont have to enter a code. Want to change the battery soon. If not, do dealers give out codes FOC (unlikely, I'm sure) - if not, any idea how much? I presume the info is easily found on the VW system from the vin number?
Regards. Read more
For VW Radio Codes with a v serial us the guys in the link below as they cannot be calculated and the garage charges £35+ for them.
Is there anyone out there who can help me with this one please. Had 02 car 10 months now 53k miles and apparently very well looked after and very clean and straight. Ran very well with excellent mpg. First noticed fault mid summer when it failed to start when parked on a hill (facing upwards). Thinking the fuel was low I rolled it doen the hill where, after a bit of churning it started. In the following months the same fault manifested a few times and , each time , I nosed the car level or downhill and it started. Gradually the hill that would cause a problem decreased in steepness until 10 days ago it failed to start on the level. I had it taken to local Saab dealer with whom I have now spent a lot of money with them - seemingly to no avail as yet since , having driven the car back from them , it is completely failing to start despite vigorous churning with fully charged battery. Yes there is fuel in it!
The Saab dealers haven't given up yet and are going to try again after Xmas. In theirwork so far they started by replacing some fuel T pieces (?) but that didn't do the trick. They then concluded that the fault wasa known weakness - injector seals. I believe that these are simply copper washers. Replacing these involved them removing the camshaft. In the job they cleaned up carbon deposits from the inlet manifold although this would appear to be incidental to the fault. By the way, the SID display shapes up entirely normally ....on switching on the "ignition" it does its checks and then gives "Check ok"
I'm mechanically minded but have had older and amatuer serviceable petrol engines to date. I'm beginning to conclude that I should stick to them. Any suggestions would be gratefully received! Merry Christmas! Read more
I still can; up in Denbigh until Thursday and probably back at some time before next Tuesday.
Before the advent of ABS , I used to change the brake fluid when I remembered. this was triggered because I'd once experienced brake fade due, I found out later, to the fluid boiling.
As many of you will know, this was because over time, brake fluid absorbs water ,lowering its boiling point thus under heavy braking the fluid can boil and Hey Presto no brakes.
Usually this meant I changed the brake fluid change every 4- 5years. There are now meters which teast the fluid for moisture so that you can be a bit more scientific.
However, since ABS was introduced the frequency of change has become 2 Years. I have been told that this is to prevent damage to the ABS pump which can cost £2,000 to change. I have subsequently had my brake fluid changed every two years. I have also talked to my mechanic friend who says, even with ABS , to only change the fluid if it has absorbed too much water.This means, in his experience every 4-5 years.
My questions rare: "what damages the pump , water or general debris and how many of you have had a pump fail,?" as few people I know , apart from me(!) , seem to change their brake fluid every two years . Even most of the service books I've looked at ,indicate it's been miissed .Is a 2 years changeover the top? Read more
>>ren't there some systems that don't like being completely emptied of fluid?
There are many that are a real PITA to bleed once air has got in - I always make sure the reservoir never completely empties - flushing the old fluid out with the new - thus ensuring that air never gets in.
I once did try to empty a system before refilling it, on a G reg Carlton. Needless to say, that one took me rather longer than the 0.3 hours allowed.
Number_Cruncher
I have just returned from Newcastle , half way there I lost 90% of my power , there was no acceleration , I managed to get there and back home , even doing 70 on the motorway after several miles building up speed. After stopping for a few minutes the power seemed to be back for a few seconds , then performance got very jerky and power was lost once more. The car has done 80k and recently had the belts changed , I had noticed a fall off in consumption in the past month or so.
Is this the Maff sensor I read about? Read more
Well done stuart and screwloose, a happy ending for a change.
A problem that's bothering my ol' mate Tony .....
Anybody out there experienced this problem with a Volvo S80 (51;Oct 2001) with the D5 diesel engine? Intermittent fault, engine cuts out for .5sec, all orange warning lights come on before the engine restarts if going at more than 25mph. If going slowly, it stalls, but restarts with a first turn of the ignition. Very unnerving!!.
About 200 miles after a new fuel relay was put in by the Volvo main agent the problem occurred again 20 times in 100 miles, no trouble today although it blinked twice yesterday. No link to engine temperature, no sluggish forewarning just a shut down for a fraction of a second. Electrical ?
Computer analysis says tough luck or words to that effect. and the garage is still mystified.
Any suggestions would be gratefully received. Cheers and Christmas greetings, Waino. Read more
A problem that's bothering my ol' mate Tony ..... Anybody out there experienced this problem with a Volvo S80 (51;Oct 2001) with the D5 diesel engine? Intermittent fault, engine cuts out for .5sec, all orange warning lights come on before the engine restarts if going at more than 25mph. If going slowly, it stalls, but restarts with a first turn of the ignition. Very unnerving!!. About 200 miles after a new fuel relay was put in by the Volvo main agent the problem occurred again 20 times in 100 miles, no trouble today although it blinked twice yesterday. No link to engine temperature, no sluggish forewarning just a shut down for a fraction of a second. Electrical ? Computer analysis says tough luck or words to that effect. and the garage is still mystified. Any suggestions would be gratefully received. Cheers and Christmas greetings, Waino.
Hello Waino,
...
I drive a Ford Focus 1.8 petrol which has air conditioning fitted and am a bit worried because I have not used it for about 5 weeks - mainly becuase of the cold outside temperatures. Would any damage to the seals etc have occured during this time ?
{Made subject header 'general' and not make/model specific - DD} Read more
Mine only mists up if I DO use aircon (Auto setting), each time I start it up. It does clear within 20-30 seconds but if I don't use aircon (Eco setting) it doesn't mist up at all.
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2005 Ford Mondeo Zetec 2.0 TDCi 130ps
You see us on the roads, Lorries, and hate us. You fail to make a link between what you buy in the shops and how it gets there. You think we get in your way, cause traffic hold ups and delay you on your journey.
You think we do this on purpose, solely to get in your way and anger you.
You never think we have to be there, it is our job. You never think we may feel guilty for holding you up.
You criticise our driving professing to be better and to know more about jobs than we do. You never take into consideration that we may have a load in the trailer that needs special consideration when braking or going round roundabouts. On the other hand, that we may have driven for 9 hours that day in all weathers and road conditions plus worked tipping and loading the trailer for at least another 4 hours all perfectly legally. You still know best.
You want us off the roads in the rush hour, you want us to park out of site away from YOUR area and home, in a lay-by with no toilet, tap or food. You don?t care about our health or safety, just as long as we?re out of sight then we?re out of your minds.
You don?t stop and think of the many hours we?re held up by ?shunts? on the motorways and at junctions and roundabouts by 4/5/6 cars driving into the back of each other caused dimply by lack of concentration and bad driving.
Yet, you criticise us for bad driving when a lorry has an accident, it?s always because he fell asleep, or was driving like an idiot.
I?ve been told that ALL lorry drivers are the scum of the earth, I?ve read that Lorry Drivers are not professional and the job isn?t classed as ?skilled? or a Trade.
That we do it because we are thick and can do nothing else, that?s the reason we chose to get in your way and delay your journey by a couple of seconds.
If this is the case, WHY do you then see me in a queue of slow moving traffic and trust me completely to jam on my brakes and stop as you slot into the queue, braking hard on my front bumper?
Have I suddenly become a very good driver, who can be depended upon to expect you to do that and be braking accordingly before it happens? THAT is what we have to do to avoid squashing you between 44 tons of metal and whatever may be in front of you, and we always do it, but that counts for nothing in your eyes.
Is your journey really that important?
Is your life really so unimportant?
Is your consideration and regard for every other road user so low?
Why does it always have to be YOU first, what happened to good manners and forbid, good driving?
Next time you decide to do this remember we are the scum of the earth, who have no skills and care even less, and ask yourself if we really will stop in time to avoid shunting you into the vehicle in front?
If you decide that may not be true, and that we can be depended upon to take the necessary steps to negate YOUR bad driving then start treating us with the respect we deserve.
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It occurred to me some time ago that this thread was on its last gasp following HJ's statement, however it was allowed to run.
The OP has now e-mailed me asking me to lock it, that is always the ultimate decision maker.


>Connect the "fence" terminal to the car's metalwork, earth as normal.
It would be interesting to see what this would do to the car's electronic systems.
Pellets are the only effective deterrent for cats.
They cost 15 to 20p per application and are guaranteed 100% effective. Fibre wads are more environmentally friendly than plastic.
Kevin...