September 2007
Anyone able to point me in the direction of a online hopefully free archive of older model road test reports, approx pre 2000 etc. Have found the AA one thanks to previous question on this forum, but not the most detailed tests of there time. When i was a youngster Motor and Autocar did really detailed tests with star ratings etc. Is this info still freely available anywhere.
Thanks in advance
Mark W Read more
I have just found this article which discusses research into using high strength stainless steel in car chassis, which could give weight saving and safety benefits:
www.outokumpu.com/pages/Page____37404.aspx
"...Under the umbrella of the Next Generation Vehicle project, NGV for short... ...Using the B-pillar (a key structural member of a car body) from Volvo S40 as a benchmark, they came up with two different designs, some 20 percent lighter than the conventional pillar. When crash-tested, the behavior of stainless steel was discovered to be very good, albeit different from ordinary steel..." Read more
Hi Some help please, had a w124 which I really liked and only sold due to its rusting front wings. Would like to buy a merc diesel auto, probably a C class so question is :- have they fixed the body rot issues that plagued them in the 90s ( and beyond) and from what model year?
Alternatively whilst I suspect current MB build quality is not to W124 standards can you suggest something else: the car I'm considering is a C270 on a 51 PLate.
Thanks
willyb
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Hello
A 53 plate might be ok but check when it was actually built rather than when it was registered.
--
(iam not a mechanic)
Martin Winters
In a month or two, I'm planning to visit Austria and South Germany.
In all my earlier trips to continental Europe earlier (though I've nerver been to Austria/Germany) I never drove and always used public transport.
This is the first time I'm planning to drive (not from UK, I'll hire a car from Vienna)
Thinking of driving on wrong side of the road makes me a bit scary. So, what advise you folks have?
I plan to hire an automatic as I shall have time to concentrate on roads rather than fighting with gearstick in wrong hand!
Thanx
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Also
don't worry about those high powered BMWs - most of the Autobahns in S. Germany
are now speed restricted.
Doesn't seem to worry them! Although to be fair most of them will obey 60-80kph signs in roadworks, it's the 120kph overall restriction they seem to love flouting.
And in my recent experience, it's not the beemers, it is now the Audis that seem to be the most aggressive.
I know that air pump gauges may or may not be accurate, so I would like to top up at the pump, drive home and use an accurate gauge to let the right amount of air out when the tyres are cold.
If I buy a new gauge, how do I know if it's accurate?
A year later, how do I know it's still accurate? Read more
>>also found a group test of garage air pumps.... came across the interesting
point that all the gauges which were inaccurate read too high.
I have only ever used garage air pumps to put air into my tyres and then done a rough assessment with my own tyre gauge/s or as soon as possible after on cold tyres.
I was waiting outside the gym last night and noticed that just about every other car made screeching noises as it drove around the car park.
Is car park tarmac different from the type used on the roads, or do about 50% of cars have their wheels out of alignment? Read more
Was it one of those car parks where there are painted red and green areas for people to walk and not walk in? Those ones squeal no matter how careful you are.
hi
I have a Toyota Carine E , 1.6 GS , on this (Honest Johns ) website review it says the following about the way to drive it to get the legendary 40 mpg around town out of it :
"Lean-burn engines require unusual economy driving style of high revs with small throttle openings - not holding high gears. "
I have been getting lousy mpg with this car around , I put 20litres in and only managed 128 miles which is about 29 - 31 mpg around town , can anyone describe what the above means in terms of driving this car?
I have taken this to mean driving in 3rd at 30mph at about 2K revs and am sure must be doing something wrong as 29mpg is pathetic - could have bought a Jag and got more out of it !!! ;-)
Cheers
CMB
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not having driven a Carina but in the 214 30 in 5th is a liesurely 1250ish revs or 1600 ish in 4th. To go any distance at 30 in 3rd seems a bit odd to me but then what would I know, I've only been driving an average of 30000 a year for the last 25 years. And where does bike riding come into it? But seeing you ask I usually ride my 15 speed in top gear around town (yes, even from rest) to keep the muscle tone for off-road riding.
Hi All,
I have an every day car - the comprehensive insurance policy has legal protection on it for about £18 extra.
I also have a classic car policy for my second car which also has legal protection on it and the whole policy is due for renewal.
Do I need to buy this legal cover again for my classic and have two legal policies or can I get legal representation from my main cars insurance if I ever needed it?
Thanks in advance.
(PS I know its only potentially an 18 quid saving but I'm a die hard Yorkshireman)
David.
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I'd be careful describing it as "only" £18 then - you could be chucked out.....
Thanks for letting me know.
There's some details here
green.yahoo.com/index.php?q=node/1570
using RF to split up a water molecule to allow the hydrogen to be burnt. They're asking for research money. Now this is outside my specialist field, but I guess that the energy required to split up the molecule would be greater than that released when it's burnt. All the burning is doing is recombining the molecule that's split by the RF.
Am I missing something obvious?
--
I read often, only post occasionally Read more
There is a fuel closely related to water that has been used for some years.
It's hydrogen peroxide - - h2o2 - ie water with an additional oxygen molecule.
It's been used in rocket motors, pump engines (typically in rockets), and - somewhat modified - in german u-boats at the end of WWII.
It is carbon free (!) and doesn't need any air - hence its use in airless environments.
It's not a fuel you'd ever want on your skin.
I'm not for one minute suggesting that I want a car fuelled by h202 :-)
All the above is a gross simplification.
The handling on my car is getting worse, I'm sure the suspension is tired (car weaves under heavy braking and acceleration, also it getting more and more wobbly when changing lanes on the motorway).
Anyway the question - A few years ago I changed the rear suspension on my Mk2 Golf with little trouble with nothing more than a set of spanners and a socket set. Does anyone know if its as straight forward to change the front and rear suspension (shocks and springs) on a Mk3 Golf VR6? Any special tools required? I just dont want to be in the position of having the car up on stands and finding out I need a oojamaflop to remove a what-sit.
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Ive just had two new front tyres put on today and the weaving is now a lot better. I understand about the camber needing to be done after a suspension change. I've got a really good VW independent not too far from me who I'll be taking it to for the camber adjustments
Deloreans are plastic. The stainless panels are just stuck on the outside.