August 2007
Hi
The service book for my Primera only has one stamp left in it. I know it's 10-yrs old and I don't get it serviced at the main dealer, but I bought it with full service history (stamped book plus bills and old MoTs) so I think it'd be nice to keep it up.
Rang Nissan main dealer and they sold me a blank service book for £10.58, no questions asked.
Now, if I was an unscrupulous person I could get myself a rubber stamp made up and stamp my own 'full service history'.
Shouldn't there be a few more checks in place. I don't know, like seeing the V5 and driving license to verify name and address and vehicle ownership?
Chris
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BMW 318is, 'H'(1990)Reg, 1800cc
Hello, can anyone tell me if it possible to change the Rubber Mounting Bush on the N/S Rear Axel Support/Wheel Suspension, without complete removal of of the axel?....Thanks Ray
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Nice car! Can't help you but as they say, I know a place that will. If you have no luck on here then its worth asking on the E30 Forums at www.e30zone.net.
hth
I have an 03 plate Berlingo van,and the clutch is a tad heavy on the knee to say the least.
What can I do to make it more car like,and a bit lighter?
Can I assume it's the French car thing,where they are designed for lhd,and not rhd,therefore a new cable might cure it,or is there a modification I can do?
{Subject header expanded to highlight question asked} Read more
All the Berlingos we've got have had heavy clutches, even the 07 plate ones. I think its as you say, a quirk of the RHD conversion
Firstly hello to the forum - long time lurker and reader of the discussion posts but somehow have never got round to registering and posting before (I know, I know, shame on me....).
To the point.... I'm in the market for a new model CR-V and the company above have offered by far and away the best price. Now I know we're not allowed to name and shame, and that's not what I'm after. I'd just like some reassurance from anyone that has used the company??? What worries me most is that they ask for the full balance of payment one week before delivery, as opposed to some like drivethedeal who only ask for payment on delivery. Not knowing the company or their backers I'm a little sceptical right now.
Many thanks in advance.
Twiz Read more
Thanks for the continued info on this - will check our Bob G when I finally get round to ordering - currently on hold pending other spending from SWMBO......
Does anyone know the recommended cambelt interval for a Honda Civic UK 1.4 - 2001 model, and how much should I expect to pay to have it changed (independant rather than a dealer) Read more
Don't know about the interval, but, you might want to check out dealer prices. They do a Honda Happiness for cars over 3yrs (i think, might be 5 though) and have reduced costs on certain items like cambelts. My local indy was the same price for my cambelt on my Accord. I still went with my Indy as he is closer and I trust him more not to find extra work. Was about £185 with either of them.
Do car sellers who misdescribe cars have to face any legal recourse or recourse from a purchaser? I bought a car privately last year. It was described as a decent car. It has turned out to be anything but. Most of the lights failed, the brakes were iffy, the steering had broken parts. I have kept on with it always thinking the next lot of repairs will turn it into being a reasonable car. The main problems left are persistent poor running and it losing oil. I also suspect the provenance of some parts that were replaced weren't as they were described either. Unfortunately I know the seller reasonably well and have to work with them via a owners club.
They also valued the car at way over market value recently and said I would likely to be able to get £9k for a part exchange. The most I have been offered so far was £6k. I can't afford to sell the car on at such a massive loss or absorb the full cost of repairs. I don't feel happy about selling the car on its current condition either as basically it is an absolute dog. My work situation has also deteriorated so I am about to have my income reduced drastically which doesn't help. I can't mention the make or model as it would identify me too much and things are a little delicate :-) I have asked the person I bought it from to buy it back at their valuation ( I am assuming they'll negotiate down). I also asked them to contact the garage that provided the duff part as they bought it. They haven't replied to either request.
Any ideas on what is the best way to proceed which reduces my potential losses the most?
teabelly Read more
this highlights the potential pitfalls of buying a car from a colleague / associate. I say this as I sold my line manager a car for her daughter several years ago. It was a lovely old mark II Fiesta 1.1 with low mileage and full service history. I even had it serviced for her prior to selling it. Despite this the engine seized several weeks later due to a faulty oil pump, which was obviously not apparent at the time. My colleague was very good about this, but I decided there and then never to involve myself with either buying or selling cars with friends, relatives or colleagues.
As far as I understand it you have little comeback if the car was purchased from a private seller, very much a case of "buyer beware". Even if it was from a dealer, I think you may have left it a little late though.
The cheapest way to proceed would be to spend no further money on the car and cut your losses, assuming the original seller doesn't help you out and buy it back. Ebay also never ceases to amaze me as a method of disposing of cars with declared problems.
Good luck.
Hi all,
Does anyone happen to know what the parkers guide price is for a '96 plate ford fiesta, 3 door, 1.8 diesel. Power steering, sunroof, driver airbag, 103k on the clock, but in immaculate condition otherwise.
Any feedback would be great,
Cheers,
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took me 6 months to get rid of the last one power steering and 5 doors (r reg)
its the road tax puts em off see £99 for a paltry 6 months
as said value it for your local area via the autotrader and good luck
For the umpteenth time in the last fifty-odd years, I'm about to change the engine oil and have always followed the practice of doing so on a hot engine since the oil is supposed to drain more freely when hot. But hang on a moment -- since the whole point of modern multigrade oils is that viscosity *increases* with temperature, would it not be better to drain it when it's cold? In addition, if the engine has not been run for a few hours -- or days -- then the oil will have drained off the up-and-down and round-and-round bits back into the sump. And when the oil runs over your fingers as you remove the sump plug, you won't get scalded either. Yet I see that warming up the oil is still recommended in certain quarters. Is it really just a matter of viscosity, or have I missed something? Read more
"Is there any evidence for this view.."
Well when my Laguna went bang one of the mechanics put it down to the 18k service intervals !. Shell back in the late 90's had a whole field testing unit working with MB in Germany looking at the relationship between oil quality and mileage. Running Taxi's in Duseldorf on various grades and them taking them apart and puting back together.
Cars tend to follow truck technology back in the late 80's it was 6K service intervals on Mineral now you've got Trucks on 90K intervals some like the volvo's on Varible doing in one case 118K thing is a truck is designed with reliablity in mind not cost. Note VW are going CR because PD is to expensive to make. Most makers are of the view the customer won't pay for it. Plus cars have a design life whch is all to short will we expect to see as many Volvo in 20 years time as 740's .....
Paul
Dont know if this is nationwide but now our barriers are open to eastern block countries the route i have to take to go for mots passes through a largely immigrant new to this country area and these people all aged 17 to about 27 and all male think it is quicker to walk under your wheels than wait for gaps in traffic or the little green man to come on.
I can imagine if these people have either no basic road sense or dont care and think they are harder than a mondeo then we are going to have problems with bodies scattered on the roads in the very near future. Read more
Years ago I was coming down a hill and saw the motorist in front of me getting mooned by a youth in the middle of the road. He had to brake hard to avoid him. When I got down to that part I slipped the clutch, gunned the motor, and swerved towards the twerp while beckoning him out. He backed off. Didn't fancy a 3lt 6 where the sun don't shine!
Does anyone know of a reliable Ford specialist within a reasonable radius of Sunderland. My daughter's Fiesta 1.25 Zetec hesitates when using throttle at low revs. Doing a forum search suggests it may be the throttle position sensor at fault but I would rather the car be checked for fault codes and properly diagnosed than just have one component after another replaced. Read more
Rattles advice spot on, wiring loom connectors are a well known problem. The fuse is the purple 3amp fuse marked ecu, remove for ten mins & reconnect & start but allow to idle only for 5 mins before you touch the throttle or drive. helps it relearn its idle. Do it when its hot.
Make sure it is running on Zetec 5-30 oil
Doc
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What like these which are at present being offered on Ebay!!!
Ebay Item No. 120155342237
I recon this bloke must work at Fords to be able to get so many, or perhaps the printers!