***** This thread is now closed, please CLICK HERE to go to Volume 192 *****


In this thread you may ask any question for which you need help, advice, suggestions or whatever.

It does not need to be motoring related. In fact, in this thread it should not be.

No Questions About PCs. Please use the current "computer Related Questions" thread instead.
No politics
No Speeding, speed cameras, traffic calming
No arguments or slanging matches
Nothing which we think is not following the spirit of the thread
Nothing that risks the future of this site (please see the small print for details
www.honestjohn.co.uk/credits/index.htm )

Any of the above will be deleted. If the thread becomes difficult to maintain it will simply be removed.

However, as has been said a couple of times, there is a wealth of knowledge in here, much of which is not motoring related, but most of which is useful.

This is Volume 191. Previous Volumes will not be deleted,

A list of previous volumes can be found here:-
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=18847


PLEASE NOTE:

When posting a NEW question, please "Reply to" the first message in this thread, i.e. this one. This keeps each question in it's own separate segment and stops each new question from getting mixed up in amongst existing questions. Also please remember to change the subject header.

Read more

I just had a cold call from AA warranties tonight and for the first time ever, have actually bought one.

The gist of the policy is that it covers everything except:-

Brakes
Tyres
Windscreen
Exhaust

All of the electrics, engine components and other greasy bits are covered.

The cost is £21 per month over 24 months for 2 years cover at 0% APR. (Total cost £525 inluding deposit)

I can take the car to any garage that I want, and am covered for problems occuring whilst away from home with associated recovery costs etc.

The only downside is that there is a £50 excess in the event of a claim.

So, is there a downside that I've missed or does it sound like a decent warranty? I specifically asked whether the head gasket was covered and they advised that it is (well obviously as I own an MG I am certain to experence HGF aren't I? :-)

I've got 14 days to cancel and get my money back, I'm going to have a read of the policy document when it arrives, the only nagging thought that I have is that I could just put an extra £20 in a savings account every month (I already set aside £60 per month to cover servicing and tyres) and that would pay for a lot of repairs, but would take a few months to build up to any meaningful level.

Blue Read more

I currently have four P6000 tyres 225/50 17" on my Volvo S80. Just managed to get a nail in the back left tyre, and rather than replace with another the same, may fit two Goodyear Eagle F1s, on the basis that the ride on my car is too bumpy, and I was hoping these tyres (on rear axle only, too cheap to fork out £500 for 4 new ones) might fix the problem. Is this a bad idea? Waste of time? Just stick with the P6000s? Read more

Just been awarded high mobility of DLA which enables me to get a car on the mobility scheme. Need something with higher seating position in order to make it easier to in and out of the car. Hence the above selection. Any advice which one to go for? They will be basic model probably 1.6 or 1.8 petrol engine. Would like an automatic but will be happy with a manual.

{Typo in subject header corrected - DD} Read more

This is in response to a query on another thread about parts required to improve handling on a Legacy (and also Forester & Impreza).

First off, a bit of background.
All the Subaru suspension layouts are very similar. In fact a Forester is an Impreza 'on stilts' and a Legacy is a 'well fed' Impreza. The overall design and geometry is very similar on the three models.

Now, all things being equal, any AWD is going to tend to understeer - that's their basic trait. Subaru want their cars to drive maximally safe and stable even with an idiot at the wheel, so they build in lots of understeer by biassing roll stiffness to the front of the car, about 70-30. 'Conventional' suspension tuning wisdom says that biassing the vehicle roll stiffness to the rear will reduce understeer because it will increase front end grip and reduce rear end grip. So leaving the front ARB as it is and fitting a stiffer rear anti-roll bar will reduce understeer - this is what a lot of suspension tuners do - just fit a bigger diameter rear ARB.
However, this argument doesn't take account of the fact that when the car rolls the suspension geometry changes. On Subaru's design the wheel camber actually changes quite a bit, more than you'd really like - this tends to reduce grip. Fitting stiffer anti-roll bars back AND front, and choosing sizes to shift the vehicle's roll-stiffness bias away from the front a little, therefore reduces overall roll (and so increases grip by improving tyre contact and getting the tyres to work better) and also can remove most of the understeer characteristic.
Of course one way to do this is just to fitter stiffer springing and damping all around, this maintains geometry (because the wheels can't move about as much) and works great on a track or very smooth roads. The snag is that on UK roads you are quite likely to hit a bump or hole on a corner and then everything goes to pot because the suspension is insufficiently compliant and the car skits and jolts as it loses and then regains grip.
It is much better (for UK road driving) to retain the reasonably soft OEM spring and damping rates, but significantly increase roll stiffness.

For a 2003-on Legacy you need the following parts:

22mm Front ARB - BSF35
22mm Front ARB poly-u bush W040622
20mm adjustable rear ARB - BSR39Z (this has three settings to give roll stiffness equivalent to 18, 20 or 22mm solid ARB).
20mm Rear ARB poly bush W040620

That will set you back a bit over £200. I have generally bought from Balance Motor Sports www.balancemotorsport.co.uk/

The front standard ARB links are generally OK. If you want to fit improved rear ARB's (less compliant than the OEM ones) then you can, but they are about £80 I think and not essential. beware of using the spherical end links because they are quite dear and my experience is that they can start to knock after a few thousand miles.

Fitting the ARB's is about 1/2 hour each end and easy. Any small garage will be able to do it for you. Put plenty of the (supplied) silicone grease on the bushes otherwise they will squeak.

Initally set the rear ARB to the softest (endmost hole) setting. You will have an overall 50-70% increase on roll stiffness, and less understeer than with the OEM setup. This setting will give greatest amount of understeer with the new configuration, but the car will corner flatter and feel less 'nose heavy' with less understeer than previously. Drive the car around for a week or two to get used to it and how it feels in corners. Try and drive the car 'balanced' through the corner, brake firmly before the corner and then ease of as you enter into the corner - its a Subaru AWD, so although you can floor the pedal and it will hold on (which is how the typical WRX numpty will drive), for fluid driving you should really just apply a little throttle as you go through the apex, just enough to overcome drag so that the car is balanced and neither accelerating nor decelerating. Accelerate as you come out of the corner and straighten up. If you still feel that there is too much understeer for your taste then move the rear ARB to the centre setting and try it there for a couple of weeks. If there is still a bit too much understeer then increase front tyre pressure by 2-3psi and see how that feels. It should not be necessary to go to the third (stiffest) setting. Making the rear too stiff can provide a very 'neutral' feeling car on a good road but can lead to a loose feeling or snap oversteer in difficult situation and could catch an unwary driver (your wife?) out on a slippery road - so always live with a little understeer.

The only downside to this mod is that you are increasing the lateral coupling between the suspension units and therefore making the suspension 'less independent' - this can manifest itself as slight 'corkscrewing' when one side of the car hits a bump or pothole. All suspension work is a compromise though, and its not something that is unpleasantly noticable. Read more