July 2007
Our old faithful Pug 205 has started to become not so faithful and doesn't like starting in the morning, but then do any of us. So I need to find out if the problem is with the battery or the alternator. When I turn the key there is nothing, not even a click of the starter. I put the battery on a booster charge for 15 mins. and she starts fine and runs for the rest of the day without problems restarting her. Next morning--dead. So, how can I tell if the battery is shot or if it is the alternator failing to charge the battery?
Ta
{Car details added to attract the attention of Peugeot owners - DD} Read more
In case its not understood about rolling car tax and recorded keepers i have today been in touch with swansea regarding v5c documents that get lost in the post both sent on different days both different vehicles.
you have to phone 6 weeks after the confirmation letter is received or its too late (i phoned 7 weeks after- ha-- too late they say)
the dvla blame the post office for non delivery but still tell you the new keeper will have to fork out £25 before they get the log book so they can retax the car in 6 months/a year.
Its basically a case of being on the ball in relation to documents sent off 6 weeks ago and tracking them,a case of doing the job for the people you are paying to do it for you
dont get caught
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I've (allegedly) been advised that the new keeper shouldn't fill in the date on the small green slip to cover cases like this. If the V5 doesn't arrive simply fill out the V62 (?) from the post office and attach the green slip with last weeks date on it and you'll get a new V5 for free - allegedly
2002 Peugeot 406HDi on 121,000. I?m struggling to get over 40mpg. Even on a long run to Cornwall from the North West I achieved 45mpg at a steady 70mph.
My usual daily use is a mix of motorway, A roads and town centre ? approx 50 miles a day. I don?t drive like a maniac, nor like a nun..!
Recently been MOT?d and emissions were fine. Recent service where filters etc were changed.
Does anyone have any brightspark ideas as to why the economy is low?
Many thanks!
DB
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"If the OP is using the fuel computer to give the figures quoted...."
No, I'm not. I just thought it would be interesting to see what it said when driving uber economically....
We've recently bought an 03 Focus TDCi (115bhp). ~60k miles.
Having driven it a little we have noticed a low rumbling noise when the car is at approx 60mph. It makes a sound like when you go over the rumble strips at the side of the road, but the noise isn't that loud and isn't constant, it comes in 1/4 to 1/2 second regular bursts. And no, we aren't going over cats eyes or white stripes or anything silly like that.
I don't think it is related to the wheels or tracking as it is not found at any other speeds and seemed to go away when I tested it and depressed the clutch at 60mph. Therefore I am thinking engine, possibly a pump? Or the turbo whirring down? It does seem more prominant when slowing down although I have noticed it when accelerating.
Any ideas or experiences from Focus owners? Read more
Bearings - Had some go on a Honda - there was no play in them, but when the wheel was spun (jacked up) in a quiet location it was obvious there were noisier than other wheels.
I believe bearings will rumble first then develop play as they get worse. What Ford might be saying is that there not serious enough to warrant changing....but unless you are going to regularly check them for play, then get them changed IF you are sure that there is noise coming from the bearings. When jacked up the noise can only really come from Bearings, Brakes or something rubbing against brakes/Tyres.
Corrosion - You can clean corrosion easily, but if it has left lumps, pits and small chunks in the friction surfaces then get them changed (or if discs/pads are thin). Changing rears can be more fiddley than fronts as you have to be careful how you wind-in the piston without damaging the handbrake mechanism.
news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/6911152.stm
Roads to Cornwall should be clearer though! Read more
When I read about this, it stated that caravans would not be allowed down the Mall.
Saves the elite from being held up I suppose.
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
I've noticed about a tea-spoonfull of oil in my P-reg micra's air-filter box, it's probably come up through the breather hose.
Is it a symptom of anything serious? Thanks. Read more
Not really. This is to be expected, especially at this age.
Has just gone on mother in laws car, which was towed back to our house.
Is this a job that could be done by a mobile mechanic?
Approximate cost would be helpful as well.
Thanks Read more
Advice spot on.
Going into a garage for new clutch, bearing, slave cylinder tomorrow.
Many thanks
Woody
** 306 Mardi Gras, Diesel, 1994, 1905cc, 118k mi **
I have a leaking Lucas Injection pump.
I first noticed it when I smelt diesel oil on a hot engine after I turned the engine off to get out of the car.
What happens is as follows : as I start the engine looking at image
picasaweb.google.com/kessack/306LucasLeakingIp/pho...4
the oil wells up somewhere above point "A"
Then flows downwards towards point "B" and starts dripping off the engine.
I tried to tighten "C" but things got only slightly worse so I thought I'd better ask before moving forward.
"D" is hex and too large diameter for any socket I have currently.
Help appreciated.
Jim
p.s. top view showing "D" larger hex and "C" smaller hex
picasaweb.google.com/kessack/306LucasLeakingIp/pho...6
Also IP has the following info on it
*******************************
LUCAS
TYPE XUD.101 DCC R844 8B9526
CODE
SERIE No 206854 DMF
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Go to a good motor factor - a new stop solenoid should be under £20 (recently bought one for a similar Lucas pump and it cost £13!). The sealing washer will probably be rubber, but it doesn't matter as it's obviously leaking from further up the solenoid. easy to fit as well - simply disconnect wires, unscrew, and replace. Watch out for the plunger dropping out though!
Im toying with the idea of buying one but they seem really thin on the ground. Are there any good ones left?
Were there any issues with these models? How much should you pay for a good one?
Oh and yes I know they are dog slow but economy is measurably better than the petrols and thats more important to me.
One thing that I found curious - I got quoted virtually the same price for insurance on one of these as for my Fiat Seicento - whats going on there?
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On ebay:
tinyurl.com/3ydasf
My boss has a problem with his '05' Range Rover and took it in to the dealer almost 2 weeks ago. They diagnosed an 'engine sensor' and have told him that it will take 2 to 3 weeks to get the part.
His is the BMW derived diesel engine - surely they should be able to get one quicker than that? It seems pretty odd that BMW or LR can't obtain one. Read more
Every time I ever order a part for my BMW no matter how obscure it
is never in stock but always there for collection the day after.
Varies by brand and by part required. I have always found Mitsubishi one of the best - very expensive parts and usually next day delivery, even on obscure import parts.
BMW about average I think, they tend to be poor on availability for older cars. Quite a few slow-moving parts for E32/E34 are no longer available. I remember trying to source a door handle for an 8-year old E32 and it was 'obsolete' - had to source s/hand. I thought that was poor.
Mercedes brilliant, even for very old motors.
VW poor - 2 weeks wait for a Polo oil pressure switch
Browse
Easiset way to check a battery in suspected poor condition.
At night after driving, remove the negative terminal (assuming you have the code for the radio etc). In the morning, re connect it and when you go to restart it will either have power or not.
If it has sufficient power then the battery is doing ist job (holding a store of electricity). If it has insufficient power then the battery is at fault.
Assuming the battery is ok, the alternator is a little more difficult to test. The choice is either the alternator is not charging enough or something is draining the power.
So, if running the car the battery stays charged (dissonnecting overnight) then its likely its charging ok and you have a drain on the system.
If it is losing power this way and only lasts for 2 or 3 days then its likely the alternator isnt charging enough. hth
It would be interesting to see what a voltmeter records with the battery too. When its just been driven, when its been stood for over 2 hours, with it running at idle and at 200rpm with and without electrical load, and voltage readings at roughly 2 or 3 hour intervals after drivnig. It isnt an exact test of an alternator but its a good laymans test.