Wheel bearing has gone, if not both front.
£127 to change one, double that for two.
2nd quote £129.95 each.
3rd quote £73.95 each - Ford Rapidfit (hope they have a better part than the last one!)
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Thanks for reporting back - I didn't realise the job was as expensive as that.
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£127 is a bit excessive. With the right equipment, it shouldn't take more than half an hour I wouldn't have thought, unless the front bearings are more difficult to change than those in rear drums ?
I paid £18-odd for a UniPart bearing for my rear drum and changed it myself, although I had to take my drum/hub to a local mechanic because the old bearing was impossible to get out without a proper hydraulic press.
He pressed the old bearing out and new one in for me for nothing (said it took him about 2 minutes !)
Ford bearings were around double that - nearly £40 each IIRC, so £74 from RapidFit doesn't sound too bad, especially if they're usuing Ford parts.
Ford wanted around £30 labour to press the old one out and new one in, as mentioned above.
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For interests sake, Rapidfit were using genuine Ford parts, although the bearings have been upgraded since the standard fit ones.
Anyhow, saga continues, Rapidfit could not fault the bearings. No play in them. And 3 people took it for test drives and could not detect the noise. Although after driving 5 mins I can still hear the noise. But if Ford say they're ok I'll put up with some noise and see how we get on, still not convinced. (other garage said they sped the wheel up, I assume on a track and detected noise which they presumed to be bearing).
Could be tyre noise, had the wheel alignment done but still noise. Rapidfit told me the front left tyre is at 6mm wear while the right is at 7mm wear. Why do people fit different tyres to the same axel, are they stupid?? (recently bought car if you did not guess).
And now I find I need new rear disc and pads because they are corroded. £205 quote from Rapidfit, er no thanks. Having never changed pads and discs on any car before I am tempted to have a go which will mean I'll be able to do it in the future and save ££££. Gotta convince the girlfriend though, she's the one behind the wheel most of the time. Anything tricky with ford disc/pad change? e.g. fiddly bits which need to go back exactly as they were, apart from the obvious of course.
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Bearings - Had some go on a Honda - there was no play in them, but when the wheel was spun (jacked up) in a quiet location it was obvious there were noisier than other wheels.
I believe bearings will rumble first then develop play as they get worse. What Ford might be saying is that there not serious enough to warrant changing....but unless you are going to regularly check them for play, then get them changed IF you are sure that there is noise coming from the bearings. When jacked up the noise can only really come from Bearings, Brakes or something rubbing against brakes/Tyres.
Corrosion - You can clean corrosion easily, but if it has left lumps, pits and small chunks in the friction surfaces then get them changed (or if discs/pads are thin). Changing rears can be more fiddley than fronts as you have to be careful how you wind-in the piston without damaging the handbrake mechanism.
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