April 2007
I've been hearing these adds on the local radio about how to reduce emissions etc. One thing they said is that we should change up gears earlier. Is this true? I know this can be true, but if you're using the gears correctly I thought higher revs isn't necessarily worse. What is best/worse?
Low revs can cause more load higher fuel consumption, won't it? A low gear will give more torque so that you can accelerate quickly and change up quicker. In theory, I believe the most efficient way is to floor it, but that's not much good for the car. Read more
Hi,
Just wondering for any advice...
I've just been convicted for drink driving at the magistrates Court... I was 84mg in blood, where the limit is 80mg...
If I was 82mg, I was told this I would have got away wit it.... but unfortunately not...
I pleaded guilty at the court, and told the magistrates I was going to drop my friends to a club, they wer drinking up so I had one drink with them. Then I thought I'd have some plain lemonade, which I did... and then... I had another lemonade, which I thought had no alcohol in it watsoever... I was told after by one of my friends the Next day, that they had pured a little vodka into my lemonade and not told me...
As, my friends left, I went back to drive home, but upon getting stopped by the police, I was found to be over the limit... they arressted me rite away and took a blood sample at the station which came back 4mg over the limit 2 months later.
After pleading guilty at the court, and telling them my story, I overheard one of the magistrates mentioning mitigating circumstances.. but they still conferred and gave me a 12 months ban, reduced to 3 months if I do this drink driving course...
Now, i what I want to know is.... that is possible to appeal at the crown court, if i can get witnesses, to prove that they gave me alcohol, while letting me think it was just lemonade... ??
im not even sure If i can still appeal at the crown court... i've heard u can appeal against conviction .. if u pleaded not guilty... or just the sentence if u pleaded guilty..... not too sure about this justice system!
Just wondering if its worth me appealing... cuz I wasnt even that much over the limit, jus a touch, and i wasnt planning on drink driving neither.. it was my friends that gave me the extra drink.. without me knowing it was alcoholic...
also, I'll be 26.. when the ban comes off.. with 3 yrs no claim, would it be real bad on insurance... and this conviction a criminal record... if so, how long does criminal record stay for?? Read more
The current threshold is not high in my opinion, yes its higher than most european levels but then our penalties are considerably higher than most other countries.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
Hi all. Need to post a poser for my 1st post. Hope someone can help me.
I currently have a Merc C Class Automatic Coupe that is petrol for my company car. I have asked for a diesel but have been told I need to run this for at least another year. I get my mileage back when on company business but obviously, not personal and its expensive as I have to drive approx 60 miles per day when not out on customer visits.
There is an option to "opt out" and I will get £6k per year before tax. I have worked out that with the money I will save not paying tax (£110 per month) on the car will almost negate the tax on the £6k (£500 per month) so there should be approx £350 to £400 PM to buy a car with the rest going to tax, insurance etc so I can go ahead a get a diesel.
Does anyone have any input into.....
A:- should I opt out or not
B:- what is probably the best option I need to be looking at
C:- anything else I may not have covered above
The main considerations have to be financial rather than drive quality. I need something thats economical and the petrol auto just isnt around town. I'm lucky to get 30mpg and thats driving it under 3500 revs.
Cheers count but to be honest, the main considerations have to be financial rather than drive quality. I need something thats economical and the petrol auto just isnt around town. I'm lucky to get 30mpg and thats driving it under 3500 revs. I just need some advice of company car vs car allowance. Which is better and does anyone have any input into it.
Thanks in advance and I hope someone out there can help me.
I look forward to some replies Read more
Out of curiosity just got a quote and Tesco quote 25% higher for up to 25k pa compared to up to 10k per year - their web-site only goes up to 25k pa!.
Audi A4 avant tdi 130 2002 (51 plate)
Total novice I'm afraid, but wanting to have a go, or hoping for some reasurance.
I have noticed an oily mist appearing on underside of fancy engine cover trim. Taken cover off and it appears to come from the fuel intake manifold (high level), what I assume is the automatic choke. Black object with linkage arm adjusting butterfly.).
I removed the large diameter intake, just behind butterfly (crosses over top of engine coming from some sort of cooling/heating radiator) removing half circular spring clip first, fine oil is present inside tube.
Can anyone advise me if this is normal or does this need attention.
Much appreciated. Read more
Thanks chaps, I found this on the various forums. It seems that this is standard problem within intake hoses, eventually filling intercooler with sludge as well.
I still can't find where the actual leak is coming from though, no apparent loose hoses. Small hole in what I stupidly called the automatic choke (Now know it to be called anti shudder valve and solenoid). Could be from that?
Details taken from web site below. Really handy site for info.
tdiclub.com/TDIFAQ/TDiFAQ-7.html#f
Intake Manifold and EGR Cleaning - This vehicle is equipped with a CCV (crankcase vent) system and an EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) system. Oily fumes from the CCV system can combine with carbon particles from the EGR system to form a black sticky tar in the intake system. This eventually starts restricting the amount of airflow into the engine, resulting in gradual power loss as the vehicle ages and the intake clogging becomes worse. In rare cases a MIL ("check engine" light) may be tripped, with an intake manifold pressure control code set, but normally this does not happen and no codes are set. Operating conditions, fuel quality, oil quality, driving habits, and general condition of the engine all have some effect on how long the intake system survives before clogging up. It can be prevented (see section 7.8 below) and this recalibration is highly recommended for all TDI owners.
But if you didn't do that, and your vehicle is suffering from lack of power at higher engine speeds at all times, you need to clean the intake manifold. The following procedure is generic to all TDI vehicles. Individual vehicles may differ slightly.
Don't even THINK about cleaning the intake manifold without removing it from the vehicle ... engines don't like breathing solid particles.
I have a '89 bmw 535. I noticed some condensation on the oil cap the other day, therefore I changed the oil and took the car for a run. At the end of 50 miles I open up the cap and the white milky substance is back again. On the test drive the temperature guage drops to zero then back up to the middle after 30 seconds. Thinking head gasket I order a block tester.
Just tried the block tester. Nothing. Liquid stays blue. I keep trying for about 15 minutes and eventually it turns green. (Which is something you only see on diesels according to the manual). Given that it was neither yellow or blue I decide to give it another go. I stick it in, it stays blue, then all of a sudden (after 2 minutes), the car shoots all it's coolant out over the driveway. Assuming it must be a head gasket fault I refill the system and turn the starter and expect it to do the same. Nothing. Engine fires up and it's as if nothing happens.
What do I do next. Any suggestions? Did the car object to being block tested. Do I have a warped head?
Thanks
Steve
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After 9 years ownership, I have today sold my '97 P reg 2.4D Transporter. a LWB High Roof variant. I bought it at one year old from a main dealer as an ex demo/parts delivery van and not once in all these years has it let me down! Admittedly I only covered 105,000 miles in it, mainly commuting to my shop where it was used as a 'mobile warehouse' and I changed the oil every 6k miles, but it was as reliable as my old Westie.
It has now gone to a good home and I am left with my recently acquired 12 year old Defender 90. With a spare set of wheels and Vredestein M & S tyres we had some real adventures over the years, and at yesterdays MOT it only needed new pads and brake pipes. On a long test drive today ...it ran smooth as silk, incorporating furniture removal for a friend...no point in wasting diesel, and over the years returned a consistent 30/35 mpg with absolutely no oil needed between changes.
I sold it for a very reasonable £1850 (inc new front tryes& exhaust) and what on earth can replace such reliable motoring for that sort of money?
Bet the Defender doesn't last that long trouble free....
Blimey, I never thought I would feel sad about selling a van....
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I know how you feel.
A few years back I bought an N-reg 2.4 lwb T4 (low roof), ex-Anglian windows with 130,000 on the clock but a complete breakdown of every last penny ever spent on it (as well as a fair bit of mastic residue in the back). I seem to recall I paid £1,500 for it. The one unexpected expense was suspension rubbers, but otherwise it ran as smooth as silk up and down to the coast for 2 years, ladden with windsurfing kit. It's the one vehicle I sold on at a profit, to a fellow windsurfer who liked the way I had racked out the rear for board storage. Those 5-cylinder engines certainly take some beating.
We have recently taken delivery of a shiny new lwb T5 174 bhp, which I hope serves us as well, but having read some of the stories about them on other forums, I have my doubts (still, the stories are nowhere near as bad as the Vito stories you see!).
I've recently purchased an S40 TD 1998, got it compeletely serviced and the mechanic added the oil in the gearbox to bring it back up to the norm. When I bought it most of the gears were very stiff, 1st and 5th in particular but now that problem is resolved and the only problem which I find very annoying is the selection of reverse gear, its almost impossible to put the car in the reverse gear while its cold. Instead of going in the reverse it selects 1st gear. When warm its a 50/50 half of the times it works and the other times I've to try couple of times before it goes in the reverse. Is there anything I could do to sort it out? Thanks! Read more
no it didn't have any leak but I think the previous owner never got it checked.
If you were to buy a diesel car with a budget of £2500 to £3000 which one would you pick from these 3 and why? Mazda 626, VW Bora and Seat Toledo. Reliability and running costs are the most important factors. Looks and badge don't matter at all. Thanks! Read more
I would not hesitate to go for a late Rover with L TDi lump. 25 or 45
They are reliable cars (British /Japano/ German car really), probably 0 cred (but do you really care?).
We run ours for 5 years now and the only problem is some loose interior fittings.
Our's do 640 miles out of every £46 of diesel when using with Miller's diesel+, you do the math.
I have a new A4 2.0 TDi 140 and was wondering what other peoples experience was with fuel consumption. Specifically what mileage is needed before the fuel consumption normalises. Mine has done 1000 miles so far and motorway fuel consumption is still stuck at about 42 mpg. My old 1.9 TDi 130 woul;d have been doing about 49-50 on the same journeys.
How many more miles will it take to loosen this engine ? Read more
Roly have a look at my thread on discussion.
In my case it's ENGINE consumption (1 engine per 9,000 miles so far!)
(I think I mentioned in the other thread about economy that my engine seemed to improve at about 8k - now I've got run in another engine)
Hi, we have a "M" reg Ford Escort with the flattened stick type key and the locks have all decided to lock but not unlock.
The fuel cap and ignition still works and that is all.
I have used WD40 and 3in1 but to no avail.
Other than doing a Mr Bean with a hasp i have no idea other than removing the locks
Any ideas
Ta Read more
If only the ignition and the fuel cap work, then presumably the drivers door, passenger door and the boot are all a problem. Like I said in my first post it will most likely a worn key rather than three worn barrels. Got a new key cut and it will most likely be right as rain.
Browse
P3t3er's point about lower gears is a good one, especially in 30mph areas. I suspect the complaint you often hear, that 30 is a difficult speed to stick to, tends to come from people who try to drive at 30 in 4th. I used to do this, until a day on a defensive driving course with an ex-police instructor convinced me otherwise.
In my present (diesel) car, driving in third feels absolutely right - 30 is well into the engine's torque band, so I can back off the throttle when necessary, get the benefit of extra engine braking, so use the brakes less, and have torque in reserve to get smoothly back to 30 without labouring or changing down; once the speed rises above 30, though, the engine gets eager and starts making its 'rev me' sound, which is a useful warning that I need to back off a little.
As for efficiency, HJ in his DT column often recommends 2000 rpm as the optimum speed for a modern diesel, and that seems to work with mine. Last weekend I drove 200 twisty, motorway-free miles home from Pembrokeshire and used 5th only when I was sustaining a speed of 50 or more. (50 is about 2500 rpm.) That gave me better-than-average mpg and what felt like smoother progress, so lower gears generally get my vote - although I do occasionally wish I had a higher top on the motorway to bring my cruising speed down towards that 2000 rpm mark again.