March 2007
Who can you really trust? I was put off by independant car dealers who quite often are pushy, and overprice their high mileage "quality" used cars. So I thought I'd go to a main dealer and pay a premium for what I thought would be better cars.
How wrong was I? I am amazed at what my local audi main dealer has the cheek to put on their forecourt. Tired old repcars, stonechipped to death, scratched by carwashes (and believe me we are not talking wear and tear here), smoked in cars with holes in the seats etc...
How the hell have they got the nerve to write a load of rubbish on their website about this 100 point check or whatever which includes bodywork and everything..
3 cars I have seen these past few days were terrible. And you have to bear in mind I am not too picky!!
Is it the same with other manifacturers? Read more
Simple, Audi approved = well valeted but otherwise average second hand Audi on the forecourt of a glamorous Audi dealer premises !
My dads been doing 100 miles a week in my Fiesta since he well enough to drive again after a bad DIY accident 7 months ago.
My Fiesta was never supposed to be a reliable business car which is what my dad is using it for and with the dodgy camshaft etc its not a good long term prospect.
My dad has owned an Escort 1.6 Zetec LX last shape for the past 5 years. He's done 60k in it and the car now has just under 100k on the clock. The engine is sound but there are few problems with sensors etc. The car is SWORN and currently has no MOT so this will need sorting.
I am thinkign he would be best just to replace the car as we spent more than £500 on the car last year. However we would have a strict budget as I will have to pay for the car as a gift, I am thinking £600-£700 max. So what medium sized car could you get for that? I am thinking a newer Escort like a W reg or maybe a bland japmobile. Idealy we would need to spend less than £200 a year on fixing it and the car will need to last 2 years minumum.
Insurance is not a problem.
It should be able to 35mpg+ and petrol would be much better suited.
Or would it just be best to spend £350 or so getting the Escort through the MOT? Read more
"I am thinking £600-£700 max. So what medium sized car could you get for that? I am thinking a newer Escort like a W reg or maybe a bland japmobile. Idealy we would need to spend less than £200 a year on fixing it and the car will need to last 2 years minumum."
Rather than trying to choose a make of car, I would try to spend less than that on anything that has 12 months mot, 4 good tyres and is structurally sound. Then, if at any time in the future you dont think it will pass its next MOT without a high cost, move it on with about 4 months left on the ticket.
I suspect your Fiesta fell into the latter category when you bought it.
Look around used car lots for something uncool and in an odd colour, get the dealer to put a full ticket on it before you buy, get someone to come with you so you dont get caught out with "Burning oil when hot" and "rust on suspension turrets" again. safer IMHO than you trying to buy private, if you can buy a Fiesta in that condition it seems someone could really take you in.
IMHO your whole expectations for running costs are extremely marginal to keep a car on the road, given that you paid £90 for someone to service your Fiesta. You basically have to do it all yourself to keep the costs down within the limits you set.
Anyone got a Glasses handy?
2.5SE Tourer - 05 plate March 2005. Manual. 32,000 miles.
Getting tempted by Spec B's again! Read more
Cheers all!!
I have a 2.5 Forester XT which is reasonably quick but has terrible steering. I feel driving a bus would be more interesting. However the point is that the exhaust is very quiet, and I want to "spice" it up a bit by adding a bit of noise. Subaru tell me that they do not supply an aftermarket sports exhaust, and to beef things up all round (including the exhaust) I need a Prodrive performance pack which costs £1600. That is a lot of money to pay when all I need is a sports exhaust!! Any ideas on what to do / where to go? I live near Milton Keynes. Read more
or try here?
www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/
Fifty seven years ago today, 8th March 1950, Rover unveiled JET1, their gas turbine prototype.
Yes, there have been other gas turbine prototype cars too, but I smiled as I read the optimism in these comments from the time;
news.bbc.co.uk/onthisday/hi/dates/stories/march/8/...m Read more
Apparently garages were reluctant to dispense paraffin - presumably had visions of expensive mistake. Hadn't thought of scorched ankles, GWS, but the test said the outlet pipe temp. had to be kept below 750 degrees C. Ouch!
My 51 plate Mercedes C class estate (c220 CDI) has been damaged in the front in an accident. The estimate figure came out through the insurance company to repair it is about 10000 pounds. The car is valued at about 6500 pounds by the insurance company. I have consulted a few garages and they said they could get the repair done at about 1500-2000 pounds. Now my question is, is it worth buying it back from the insurance company after they have written it off and repair myself? They also told me the offer from the insurance company is negotiable, but how do I negotiate with them?
The car was a very well looked after example also has about 140k miles on the clock, I only had it for a little while and I do like it. To buy another one in similar condition, I probably need to spend 7000 pounds. But if I had the car for 2000 pounds and repair it for another 2000 pounds, end up with a car being recorded on HPi, is it worth it?
Could anyone have similar experience tell me what kind of deals you had?
Any help would be great!
Thanks Read more
What you sign on the "claim" form will make a difference.
When I was bumped up the back (stationary at a roundabout) I needed to claim because of the value of repairs. The claim form basically assigned all of my rights, including ownership etc to my insurance company with the assumption they were going to see me right (gross oversimplification but it will do).
I substantially altered the ending on the form, making it clear it was a true statement of the facts and crossing out all the bits about ownership and transport etc I accompanied the form with a letter explaining my actions so they were in no doubt.
Never heard a peep and the car was repaired just fine.
I perhaps should add initial storage was not an issue (in my garage), and I undertook to transport the car as needed. (It's a vintage car, and if anyone puts it on a trailer it's me).
In other words, if the form was the current standard, I think you can do little.
My brother in law took delivery of a new Meriva 1.7 ctdi this week, and has noticed that when cold, the oil pressure light takes 7 to 8 seconds to go out. He has been back to the dealer today, and they have tested the oil pressure which they say is OK, and fitted a new pressure switch. When he collected it, it was still taking about 3 seconds to go out, but of course it was warm not cold. I personally think this is too long, but wondered what you think please, and what may be the cause? It's as if the oil is draining back into the sump through the filter and past the pump, but this seems strange on a brand new car with 100 miles on the clock. Any suggestions gratefully accepted.
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Well, seven and a half years have elapsed and the OP has not been back to say his engine has blown up.
It seems unlikely that we will hear any more:)
Hi all, apologies if this subject has been tackled before, i'm a newbie on here. I have a Pug 306 1.9 td. For the last 12 months or so I have had difficulty starting when cold (i.e. mornings or left standing for more than 4 hours). Even if i wait until few seconds after light goes out turns over quite rough, like its running on 3 cylinders. It struggles like this until i rev engine, at which point i get loads of blue/white smoke. Once i've done this its ok, however fuel economy is crap getting 150 miles outr of £20 diesel at the moment.
Glow plugs are one of the firsyt things i changed when problem started, as well as inj cleaner and redex.
Has anyone got any ideas, has anyone got any ideas? One garage said it could be tuning, other said could be injectors.
ANy advice would be appreciated
Cheers
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Hi, I've booked car in at a diesel specialists. The guy suspects it is the pump timing and as cam belt is well overdue I'm having that changed - £130. Will look at the suspension problem once this is sorted.
Thanks all
my suzuki alto was towed into a suzuki main dealer by the aa as a none starter(aa man said no fuel being delivered fuel pump working though)after 3 hours labour they said ecu was the problem.with them knowing about the car as a main dealer for suzuki and having all the latest diagnostic machines is this time excessive?
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im very surprised the ecu has gonned
maybe a local independant garage can give a better diagnose
unless dealer has fried it already
Browse
called 'the Richard Branson of motor sport'
That'l be the scruffy beard he insists on wearing. Get a shave man!