May 2005
I've just bought a 2 year old C270 diesel and find that it hasn't got a dipstick so you have to rely on the electrics to tell you that it either; needs no oil, needs 1 litre, or, needs 2 litres - mmm, doesn't seem that accurate to me! Is there any other way of checking the oil manually? Also, it was last served at 12000 miles and is saying it doesn't need another oil change until 30000 - which I think is a little long. Is it possible to do an oil change on these yourself? I can't even find the oil filter - is it hidden somewhere under that huge bit of plastic covering the top of the engine? Grateful for any help with this. Read more
Hi folks
I bought a '73 Triumph Stag last October and have been using it for 3 or 4 days a week. It's a great car, and while not a "fully restored garage queen" has had all the usual Stag problems sorted out. It's very much a daily driver if I need it.
However, I had it serviced a while back and asked for the carbs to be tuned/balanced. This car has a pair of Zenith Stromberg 175 CD-2's. Since then, it's been difficult to restart when hot. The car smells gassy at those times too. Only way to get it going is to hold the throttle wide open when cranking.
I don't trust the crowd that serviced it, so rather than bring the car back to them I took it to a pro - while he knows carbs, he was unable to get the CO2 etc down, they were very high. In fact, adjustments at the car were not making much difference.
Any ideas ? Carb-rebuild time ? The latter doesn't look too difficult, there are rebuild kits available.
Thanks
Frank Read more
>>Inexperienced techs may
try and set them up at idle to the 'book', from
experience again I set them at around 2%CO at around 2000
rpm to give a good balance of fuel at light throttle
and cruise but usually this gives a rich mixture at idle
if the carbs are worn. Setting the carbs to the 'correct'
CO% at idle will result in weak mixtures, lack of power
and high engine temps at cruise.
Those symptoms also happen with the hot idle compensators closed all the time - you need the air bleed to get correct tickover mixture and correct running mixture with a half decent carb.
If they valves are jammed shut, or gunged up, it's got to be worth getting them open when hot and then re-tuning. The critical adjustment described in the Triumph link isn't necessary to prove the point about the state of the carb, as you're through the warm-up point of operation in a matter of minutes.
Then consider exchange if the carbs are too worn.
Hi all,
Returning after a sabbatical to ask your help, please!
Unbelievably the Astra's MOT date is just around the corner again, and, whilst I am for once organised enough to get it done before the due date, there are a couple of things that were raised last time which I would like some knowledge of, please. Forewarned is forearmed sort of thing, plus just going into the garage knowing a little bit rather than nothing might help.
Obviously I know there may be other things that have cropped up since the last MOT, but if anyone could enlighten me on the following I would be grateful.
Last MOT stated 2 'Advices', namely:
M (or N?)/S/F C/V Boot; and
O/S/R outer sill.
I'd be really appreciative to hear what these are, if they are big jobs, what money I'm looking at, and anything else that might be helpful.
I'm booking it in tomorrow, and I'd really like to go a little more knowledgable than i really am!
Thank you in grateful anticipance,
HF Read more
Thanks, Adam, and Phil - really appreciate you following my thread and helping me. In respect of the moderators I would like that we now leave this thread entirely. It really has become a bit long, hasn't it?
One more time, and especially to Adam and Phil, thank you.
Actually I would quite welcome one of the moderators closing this down completely because otherwise I might come back Tuesday eulogising on the Astra. But thank you both, very much, hope you're right Adam!
Moderators, would you mind closing this down now, please? Seriously I would appreciate it if I could have the last word here. Yep it's stupid, yep it's girlie, and yep it's Friday night. But it's my car and we already know thread is too big so can it die now please?
Hopefully
HF
Locked as requested 01:41 ND
Could the forum please just confirm something for me. I have recently had my car serviced, and no mention was made of changing the cambelt. On the worksheet I was given after the service, there was a note that the cambelt should be changed at 54,000 miles, but my mileage was more than this, and this has not been done.
I wonder if the worksheet just covers all eventualities (ie not specific to my car), as I believe the Primera (which is a 2.0 petrol on an X plate) has a timing chain not a cambelt - in which case nothing needs to be changed.
Can one of the experts out there confirm that my car has a timing chain, and that therefore it does not need to be changed?
Also, my front fog lights are not working. Have tried to trace the problem, but without success. I believe front fog lights are not tested as part of the MOT, so my car should not fail if they do not work. Is this right?
Thanks in advance Read more
The micra will have a cam chain too- most nissans of the era did, however, now they are under renault's control this might change!
There have been numerous discussions on this forum over chain/belt and which is best.
Chains are obviously stronger, but need frequent oil changes or can rattle with age (some chains have been known to snap however).
Belts are cheaper, quiet, but need to be changed periodically.
Hi,
I am looking to buy the outgoing 3 series 330D in auto guise (have owned the manual version with no problems).
Has anyone got any exprience of the 330D with the auto box?
Thanks in anticipation!
Read more
Lesson #1 in why to buy a manual - You and no-one else chooses the ratios.
A few weeks back, I bought a 1989 Peugeot 205 diesel off a neighbour as a bit of fun more than anything. We have enough cars as it is but these 205's bring back a a few happy memories since we had one new in 1986 and the chance to pick up an immaculate low mileage model was too tempting. Anyway the intention was to use it for local journreys but last week I had to drive to Cambridge for the day, a round trip of almost 400 miles from Bath.
Normally I would take my Mégane dCi but it's got a slow puncture at the moment and I didn't want to risk it on the motorway. SWMBO was using her Toyota and the VW is in the barn on axle stands having some new brake disks fitted. I had no choice but to use the old 205.
I was amazed at how good these old 205's still are. By modern standards the 1.8 engine is modest in power output, there being no turbo on this model. But it purred along very comfortably at or near the legal limit. I returned home with no back pain and averaged approximately 55mpg. A very comfortable, rust free, refined and economical car all for £550. And should anything go wrong, it's so simple under the bonnet.
In the late 90's we looked at the 206 and to be honest were disappointed. I found it hard to get comfortable and I felt refinement wasn't as good. I think my recently acquired 205 will be with us for a while, parked happily in our barn next to the Mégane, Yaris, Polo and Dauphine. Read more
I could have added (c) the make is defunct.
Actually, defunct or not, Triumphs are always special. Years ago we had a 10-year old fwd 1300 as a second car. It was fairly clapped out, used a pint of oil every 50 miles, and the starter motor did a fair imitation of the fall of Babylon - but it never let us down and we loved it.
If I can one day find a few thousand spare I'll try and find a restored Vitesse convertible, and remember how proud we once were to drive British cars.
People often refer to Hairdressers Cars on the forum in a generally derogatory fashion - I tend to think of them in terms of small and underpowered Japanese sports cars but I wonder what the rest of you think is the definitive hairdressers car ?
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Now estate agents' cars - that would be different. Some
sort of posemobile costing a few thousand pounds more than they
can afford. In the late 50's that would have been
a flashy Vauxhall Cresta with fins - what's the modern equivalent?
Junior agent = smart
Negotiator = MINI (with silly paint job)
Manager = 3 series BM (debadged so he can pretend it isn't a 318)
Owner = 5 or 6 series BM, depending on family commitments.
Hot bank holiday Friday forecast. Is the M1 or A1 recommended for clutter-free relaxed cruising northwards, leaving around 3.30 pm? Read more
Mapmaker wrote: 2 hours
Mapmaker is checking into a mental hospital. He doesn't know where that one came from!
The M11 on Friday evening, BTW, at about 5-6pm was empty. In both directions.
Anyone out there done rear brake discs and pads on a C3? Specifically, how does one back off the handbrake adjusters so the new pads will fit in? Or will it be blooming obvious? Any words of wisdom much appreciated.
Hawkeye
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Stranger in a strange land Read more
At least you got there in the end! Where's this car been parked - in the sea?? Even my 10 year old Xantia wasn't this bad when I overhauled the rear brakes - and the reason for overhauling was that one of the pipes had rusted through!
--
RichardW
Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
I purchased a Passat Estate 1.9tdi(130) Sport 4motion new a year ago. When I The reason I purchased it was because I needed a car with a heavy Kerb weight for towing without opting for a SUV. In the brochure it stated that the kerb weight was 1824kgs based on the vehicle weight, 90% tank of fuel and the driver (75kgs). This suited my needs and gave me the option to tow heavier loads based on the 85% towing rule so I purchased the vehicle.
I have recently increased the weight I am towing, however I have now looked in the handbook and the Kerb weight is 150Kg lighter. I have contacted VW UK and queried this and as soon as I mentioned kerb weight the telephone agent said, ?it?s not a Passat is it? We know there is incorrect info about the kerb weight?. I have searched around on the net and found a site ( www.dieselcar.com/volkswagen-frame.html ) that states that the kerb weight is as low as 1566kgs and with the 85% rule made it not a suitable car to pull my previous load.
Getting to the point where do I stand under the consumer rights act if VW UK confirm the above as I stand to loose a packet if I need to change my car to a suitable vehicle.
Yes you have probably guessed it?s a caravan
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I think I am right in saying that there should be stated somewhere the maximum permissable towing weight of the vehicle with a) an unbraked trailer and b) a braked trailer. It would be better to use these figures.
hi i have ml270 cdi and it does exactly what mark999 states on the answer above.