January 2005
Just seen a programme 'What Car Would Jesus Drive?' on Channel 4. It was about the USA's love affair with gas guzzlers, the latest being large SUV's.
Environmental campaigners there are pushing for American cars to be capable of 40 mpg. They aired the Toyota Prius, which is selling well in the US, and the 'token' Ford Escape Hybrid.
Yet we in Europe have embraced the diesel and 50+ mpg is commonplace. What's the problem, Uncle Sam?
The programme then went on to talk about the ultimate SUVs, the Hummer H1 and H2. Military Hummers are diesel but it seems the civvy ones have big petrol V8s. They spoke to one all-American Hummer owner, who said: "C'mon Mr. Bush, we own Iraq now, why's gas still so expensive."
The programme touched on global warming and spoke to the chairman of an SUV owner's association who said that global warming would be a good thing anyway. But then they homed in on the other environmental problem, the one I bang on about on here, namely that the oil is going to run out, as is the natural gas. With China and India quickly becoming fully-fledged car-owning societies the demand for oil will go up, hastening the depletion of fossil fuel reserves.
Oh, and what about Jesus's car - that was to do with an evengelistic preacher who drives a Prius!
cheers, Sofa Spud
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SWMBO has received a letter today from a finance company that we have never dealt with. The letter advises that they have received info that my wife has bought a car that is subject to a finance agreement with them. They have enclosed a Category 5 fraud questionnaire for my wife to complete.
The thing is, SWMBO has not just bought a car! However the car reg they are quoting was our first Scenic, which she bought in 1999, brand new from dealer, and sold in 2001.
A check on RAC website states that this car has not had a change of owner since 2002.
Anyone shed any light on how my wifes details could have been obtained or used in this way and what possibly has happened here?
Finance company have not supplied a pre pay envelope or a freephone number so I am tempted to bin this letter until they foot the bill (ok a stamp!) for this check. Read more
It seems to me like a pukkah website. If you read the press release (2002) it is part of GMAC (Vauxhall Finance. There is a lot of solid advice on this thread. I wouldn't ignor eit though.
www.bbc.co.uk/
Click on Business for a video clip Read more
Saw it on TV news. Now that's more like it, Jaguar!
The car looks like the sort of thing that would sell well, although it's a performance coupe not a luxury saloon. All aluminiun too! Has a few style references to the E-type, but it's arguable whether copying the E-type counts as retro (unless someone picks up on the narrow wheel-track for a future model lol!)
If there have to be absurdly fast cars for the super rich to splash out on, then at least it's better they look beautiful than ugly.
Cheers, Sofa Spud
The car: Volvo 940 TDIC auto estate 1992
The problem: Until recently the cold start idling revs.(1000rpm) would gradually decrease to normal revs as the engine warmed so that by the time the temp. gauge was off the bottom engine speed was down to normal idling (740rpm). Now though the revs remain at the higher speed until the temp. gauge reads normal operating temperature, and even then sometimes requires a blip on the accelerator for revs. to subside to normal.
The remedy: I think the problem lies with the 'cold start device' but I am ignorant as to how this thing is constructed and how it operates. Would some kind contributor to this forum enlighten me so I can decide to attempt a repair or replace the item. Assuming of course that my diagnosis is correct, 60/40 against in my opinion. I live in hopes. Read more
Thank you for your reply Cliff Pope, I shall try the 'Volvo nuts' as you suggest. I'm really a Subaru nut but I use the old oil burner for rough and tumble work.
I have had my 95 Nreg 306 Xnd since june and i have been very impressed with its handling, economy and general character as a long distance travelling car. However there is one thing thats really annoying me - the front passenger and drivers door both make really loud cracking noises when opened. Ive checked and they dont touch the wing so it is not that. I noticed today that there is a bolt in the tie-bar thing that holds it to the main body - and on the drivers side a sort of split pin arrnagement. I assume that the pin is whats supposed to be there - but it looks a bit mangled.
Any advice on what i can do to stop this really frsutrating noise or where can get a supply of these pins?
cheers
Andy Read more
I think Ross D has got it. On mine, which click very loudly - you can atually see the pillar end of the check strap and pin move in its hole when you open the door.
I fear you are right though, unless they sell oval pins it is something you will have to live with.
come on lets have a list of crazy local paper motoring headlines , should be interesting................ Read more
A friend of mine has just had to have the rear springs in his VW camper van replaced after two years of use. The servicing garage -- specialists in this type of vehicle -- advise that the most likely cause of this rapid deterioration of genuine VW parts is road humps.
Does anyone else have hard evidence or expert opinion of this type? I've opened up a line with my local councillors about the road-hump issue and would be glad of more ammunition. Read more
I think regardless of the specification of the humps these "traffic harming measures" are a menace and prematurely wrecking vehicles all over the country. A work colleague had his sump ripped off by a speed hump.
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\"Nothing less than 8 cylinders will do\"
I have a ticket to watch arsenal on a Saturday soon 3pm KO. I shall be travelling south from the Midlands via the M40. I often visit London on a Sunday and know it fairly well but am not familiar with Saturday conditions. Any suggestions for routes/ quickest way in/out or places to leave car / pick up tube. All knowlegde passed on will be really welcome.A qiuck exit to get home in time for a pint /ruby by 7.30 is the priority Read more
Thanks for the suggestions
Is there anything to be weary about when considering a high-mileage petrol Ford Focus? My best friend is thinking of buying an X-reg 1.6 Zetec that has covered 85,000 miles, mainly owned by a company. It has a full service history, but he's weary of high-mileage Fords (the only reason he's considering it, was because I said the Focus changed that, and then he drove one). It seemed like a bargain at £2,800 to me...with a little room to haggle. Anyone got any insights into what he should pay attention to? Read more
As has been said, for £2800 I'd bite their hand off. Just check where the wingmirror meets the door for rust although you may have missed out on this with an X plater.
85 isn't really that high on a Focus.
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Adam
I've just managed to change a radiator on a laguna. All connected and at the time no obvious leaks. Refilled system and bled at top of rad at the top bleed point (I assume feeds the heater matrix of something). All seem fine. Put cap back on expansion bottle and ran engine. After warmed up a bit, carefully I might add, took cap off to check level - it gushed out. Topped up again and took top bleed to check no air. However, it appears only 'gunk' had kept this in and it no longer threads back in and hence water spurts out of this point.
So after you've stopped laughing can any kind soul enlighten me to if the water gushing out is normal, or if not what is the cause (I suspect it may be the lack of a vacuum caused by the dodgy bleed screw) - and obviously a DIY soultion. Is best bodge fashion can the bleed screw be held own with a jubilee clip successfully, and maybe some PFTE tape?
?! Read more
I don't tend to touch Renaults on principle, so don't claim to be an expert at all. I imagine the bleed valve is integral with the hose - so buy a new hose. Fitting shouldn't be difficult at all (maybe invest in some new hose clips to make it easier).
Give the system a good flush through with clean water and then fill with 50:50 antifreeze mix.
On most cars, bleed when cold and perhaps as it warms up. When water runs cleanly out of the valve (no more bubbles), close it off. Get engine up to operating temp. (cap on) and then let it go cold. Then top up header tank.
Being a Renault you may have to bleed it with the front jacked up, or via a 3-foot long vertical tube, or something else wierd. Others may be able to advise on that.
Browse
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"they've been saying that for the last 40 years at least!"
they have been right so far then havent they!