January 2005
Just booked my Volvo XC90 in for it's first service, 3k or 3 month job.
Turns out it's not a service as such, just a look over. I'm told the first time it gets a 'proper' service is 12k or a year. Is this the norm these days, and if so can it be good for a new engine to run 12k on the factory oil? It's a diesel, BTW. Read more
I bought a Cat D Renault Clio about a year ago not really thinking about the consequences of when I come to sell it. Its a 52 reg and I paid £4200 for it. I saw the car before it was repaired and it was minimal, the boot of the car was bumped, it looks perfect now.
What do you think is a reasonable asking price for this? I don't think I can trade in the car to a car dealer, is this correct? Read more
There's nothing stopping a garage taking your car in p/x but they'd not offer much more than what it would fetch in an auction.
Can anyone help.
I was always under the impression that under no circumstances should you cross a double white line.
Highway code rules 107/108 stipulate what you can / cannot do if the solid line is on yours or the others side, but not about a solid double white line.
Can you turn off a main road into a side road which involves crossing the double white line?
Thanks
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No, but I do remember the prominent (at that time) Peter Starsted(?) (might be another 't' in there somewhere) (or was it Sarsted?) being nicked (about 1980) for returning to his side of the road approximately 12 feet (according to the following Police car) after the DWLs started!
My wife's N reg Fiesta immobiliser light spent a lot of time NOT going red , ie didn't do what it was supposed to do ,so you could start the car without putting the little keyfob thing into the slot.
Now , it flashes red , goes solid red with the keyfob thing in , but NEVER goes to green.
So , can I bypass this myself ?
Or is it an arm and a leg to get someone to come out , tow it away , fix the problem? Read more
This car seems to have an additional (aftermarket) immobiliser fitted as well as the factory standard fit unit that has a red led warning light by the clock,which should illuminate with ignition on for approx 5 secs as a self check.The other unit that has a green light should be able to be disconnected fairly easily by any competent auto sparks.
Morning all
I finally got round to having a go at sorting my rear jet leakage on my Mk4 Golf yesterday.
The water was coming out into the rear headlining when trying to wash the rear screen. I managed to reconnect the washer pipe under the headlining (what fun that was). Feeling pretty chuffed with myself I then tried the rear washer but still no luck!
I traced the problem to the rear wiper motor area. After another 30 mins and more fun! I thought the pipe would have disconnected from the jet nozzle, but it hasnt.
There just seems to be a poor seal between the nozzle and the long thin metal tube that goes through the wiper motor. I've just been onto VW who tell me the small connection pip isnt sold alone! I would have to buy the whole wiper motor at 70 odd quid +VAT!!!
Has anyone got any tips or ideas that might help! Or where else I could find a cheaper part.
cheers M Read more
Cheers Trancer
I think you might be right!! Looks like I better dig out my glue.
cheers again
Hi,
Anyone know how long it takes to order a new Honda Jazz - what's the delivery?
Also, who fits the city pack (the dealer?) and typically what's the cost of painting it etc.?
Thanks in advance! Read more
nozmeister,
coincidentally, I got a call from my local Honda dealer this afternoon (10/01/05) to say that our new Jazz had arrived. I ordered the car on 26 November, so the delivery took just over 6 weeks. Bearing in mind that swmbo changed her mind about the colour and we have had Christmas and new year in the meantime, I think this is pretty good for a car made in Japan.
Our last 2 Golfs took a minimum of 13 weeks!
HectorG
Until yesterday I had not used my Ford Focus 1.6 (2003) for 4 weeks. The car has been kept in a garage. Yesterday before starting the car, I noticed that the Fuel Guage & Temperature Guage read approximately 1/3 before turning on the ignition!.
The car started first runs OK, the guages then read as expected, but on turning off the ignition and parking the car the guages not zero.
I believe that any repair will be covered by Fords 3Year Warranty however I would be interested if anyone has any ideas as to what has caused the problem? Many Thanks
Andrew Read more
The car is nearing its next service, the fault remains, I note from the Ford Focus Owerners club website, Fords have renewed the instrument panel under warrenty on some Focuses,have any more readers here, experienced this problem and has it been resolved on their cars.
Andrew
This query for an acquaintence of mine who does'nt want to be ripped off!.Car's a petrol V reg 306 which is intermittantly stalling .Main dealer says the ecu is at fault and wants £600 to replace.Local scrappies have bought no joy.Firstly is this a common fault on these cars and secondly is there a company (like Best of British Rover which I use for my Rover parts)that could supply the part for a more reasonable figure.Thanks in advance Read more
Why the ECU there is a lot of other things that require testing before the ECU can be blamed, everyhing form HT lead resistance checks, vent pipe condition and idle control servo motor. Garages are using the ECU story to get the car in and make the till ring. Beware. A small independant or a tune up shop or even a mobile business can fix this. Regards Peter
I need some help and to be honest i dont know were to turn on this i belong to a carnival group and we own two cars one we have keys for and the other we dont and we are selling it how do we go about replacing these keys i know it sounds strange but it is all very true.
we replaced our ageing ford granada for some thing a bit more moodern but the person who was ment to look after the keys can now know longer find them and we need to replace them.
I am sorry if this breaks any of the forums rules but as i dont have any idea on how to replace them i need peoples help Read more
According to www.fordscorpio.co.uk/doorlockbld.htm
..............
Ask the question on the above and I feel sure you will get a quick answer. I would imagine they are a helpful lot.
I realise that I may be opening a can of worms here but this week I had to take my Scenic back to the dealer for a minor fault to be repaired (see Technical forum if interested).
I was able to book it in within 2 days of my phone call and this made me think - how is the income of dealers / manufacturers structured just now?
For example, several years ago, cars had 6000 mile intervals, one year warranties and quite unreliable vehicles at times.
Nowadays, cars have 3 year warranties, my car has 18,000 mile service intervals and is much more reliable. With the industry average of 12,000 miles a year, in theory the garage will get 2 services out of me over the warranty period before I would go to an independent. Any other works will, in theory be covered by warranty so the cost will be met by the manufacturer (or dealer in year 3).
So is income now more weighted towards car sales commission, accessories income, or is that why hourly rates at service depts are so high?
In a way, to me it seems like Turkeys voting for Christmas, you have part of your division that exists to service and repair cars, but then you make them much more reliable, extend their service intervals, and underwrite the costs of any "abnormal" repairs? Or am I missing something here?
Anybody in the trade shed some light on this?
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I'm not in the trade but I have seen many of the longer term maintenance items like clutches and cam belts changes become more complex and expensive. I know for example a clutch change for a Mondeo requires the engine out, rather than dropping the gearbox. Also the shift from rear wheel to front wheel drive makes the engine compartment more difficult to work in. Re cently I changed the glow plugs on my diesel car and what a pig of a job to do. The fuel filter and another electrical component had to be moved aside to reach two of the plugs, the rest were just plain difficult with hoses and pipes to work arround. Perhaps this is another route to earn some of their income.
Please dont shout Mark, I'm not stupid. I agree that newer oils are more efficient. This can be taken to extremes though and 12k miles is far too long to leave oil in the sump.
As part of my job, I take oil samples from the plastic processing machinery I work on and send it for analysis. This is to determine when it needs changing (Average machine has 100 gallons in so we do not want to do uneccessary changes). The point being that even clean looking oil can be very contaminated with various metals, acids and varnishes. Also, this gives early indication of any components starting to fail. Obviously, I'm not advocating car owners do this!
New cars and bikes are usually filled with mineral oil for bedding in as synthetic will prevent proper bedding in. The motor should be fine however for synthetic after about 5k miles.
When a new engine is bedding in there is all sorts of debris being pumped around the engine. Do you really want that for 12k miles or longer? It is like having grinding paste in the sump. Also, don't assume the filter is collecting all of this either.
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\"Nothing less than 8 cylinders will do\"