December 2004
I've just handed back a '03 plate Volvo V40 diesel with the 115bhp lump when I left the company. I am now running about in a Pug 306 HDi 90 that used to belong to SWMBO. It is great on the handling side, but I am missing the extra bhp.
I have read on the forums that the tuning boxes that plug in to the common rail just over fuel and chuck out lots of smoke. These are in the 350 quid bracket, and seem to be a lot of cash for something that cokes up the engine.
Is it possible, sensible and easy to take the larger turbo and intercooler off a scrapped 406 110bhp and fit it to my 90?
Would this produce the extra to satisfy my needs?
What would this do to the ECU? Would the programming in it need to be changed/remapped.
Any thoughts or comments greatly appreciated.
Simon
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Takes me back to the 70`s. During my Apprentice days..when work was scarce ie not enough for the apprentice.After workshop was cleaned up..You was told to assist on the forecourt. It was a must to ask customer whether he/she wanted underbonnet checks/windscreen clean..while filling with fuel.
If you looked the slightest bit annoyed with a customer. Manager would give you a right ticking off. How things have changed
--
Steve
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Thanks stuart.
I've never looked in System Tools since I used to defrag my Windows 95 PC!
Ref:
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=e&t=16...9
I have a 99(T) Seat Cordoba Vario, with the 90hp TDI engine. When starting up the engine from cold, the oil pressure light briefly flickers on (for a milisecond) after cold starting, then goes off. Once warm this process only reveals itself if the car has been parked for over an hour. The car uses no oil. Its just had a new VAG oil filter and Castrol oil, fitted by VAG main dealer. The codes where read by VW, with the only note being 'low oil pressure at startup'. The cars done 62k, its a one owner full MDSH car (I am second owner). This only started this week, its previously been fine. VAG dealer has suggested a faulty pressure sensor? I have trawled the web - the only info I've found is as per the above 2002 link. Has anyone else had this problem? I asked the dealer about the return valve - they where adamant that was not an issue. The car is under warranty, I am keen to know if this is a common fault, or if this could possibly be an oil pump or start of a more serious issue? Only other fault with this car is the extensive dashboard rattle...... :-(
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Technical manuals say that you should allow the light to go out before you raise the engine speed above idle - or risk damaging the turbocharger.
Other than that, if its only on for a second or two then I wouldn't worry about it.
The liquid coming from the windscreen washers has recently got thicker. It looks quite greasy. I take it this is probably due to lower temperatures. Does it mean I have too much screen wash in the bottle or too little? To clean the bottle out you have to remove the front bumper. One could siphon out the contents.Any help apreciated.Mikey Read more
It is not just low temeratures but the old fluid is degrading chemically. The best approach is to get the old bottle out and properly clean it. But if that is a lot of trouble, either syphon the old stuff out, or run it out on the washer pump. Then flush lots of warm slightly soapy water thorough it, agitating if possible through the filler neck. Can you use a long wire wine bottle washer brush to get the gunge out. Big flush through with warm water, THEN put in the new washer fluid.
My brother's Renault has this and I have no idea what it does. However, he says it's so he can do 25MPH in 5th gear though I'm a little sceptical. Read more
it's always difficult to try and explain things like this and i agree with Tom Shaw's statement about Steve.o spot on and simple to understand dont think i could have managed that think i would have got lost in the explanation if you know what i mean...cheers ...keo
Hi,
Just though I'd gather opinions on the following.
The car idles at around 700rpm, which seems about right. The only thing is, this is with a heater fan on. Fan speed doesn't matter, just whether it is on or off. Switch it off, idle rpm drops to may be around 400 or so, difficult to tell as there are no marks on the tacho between 0 and 1000.
In both cases it idles perfectly stable, never stalled. ECU also seems to do its job correctly by slightly upping rpms if a/c is turned on.
I wonder if this was a mistake made by a dealer who did the last service (that was before I bought the car), i.e. he adjusted idle speed with the fan on instead of off ? Or is it a normal behaviour for this car (very much doubt it).
Thanks
Kostic
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Thanks Number Cruncher
That's right, it's the car with overfilled sump. Actually not any more, I've managed to syphon a bit out, so it is now only around 1mm above :-) I might be able to get big medical syringes very cheaply, so I could build myself oil/whatever other fluid suction/injecting devices for any future maintenance work.
As for so-called instruments on the dash, I absolutely agree. It is probably more than 400rpm but still feels a bit low.
However, there IS an idle adjuster on IAC valve. It regulates how much air bypasses throttle butterfly.
As the car runs very well I'll leave it till the next full service at which point I'll mention it to the mechanic. The question is actually aimed at improving my knowledge base :-)
Kostic
I had a new front box and exhaust fitted to my 2.0 petrol 406 in April 2004, since then Kwik Fit have replaced both parts (without any fuss) 2 or 3 times. It's just gone again (noisy rattle on tickover, resonates on accelleration, rattles when moving)
Kwik Fit say it's unheard of that these parts break down, maybe I'm just very unlucky.
There doesn't appear to be a problem with my car, it burns no oil, it's done about 120k, mostly on motorways.
Has anyone any ideas what the problem could be:
Poor quality parts ?
Should be fitted as a pair ?
Engine issue ?
???
Cheers, Dave.
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What do the plugs look like? If they're oily or covered in black soot then you've got a problem, though 30mpg sounds about right, maybe a bit low for motorway mileage, though it depends how hard you drive it :-)
Recently had a small prang in my car. I hit another car up the backside but luckily it had a towbar so no insurance claim for me to deal with. My number plate was cracked but otherwise all ok. Couple of days later my airbag light came on and now it's on all the dang time. Looked in manual hoping to find some sort of diagnostic meaning but only advice I got was to take it into VW dealer. Not having much time this time of year does anyone know of any reason why it should come on (2 days after potential cause) or any way of making it switch off. I have spoken to a few friends who have suggested it may just need resetting but I have no idea how to do that either Read more
I would suspect that it just needs resetting. Without access to the appropriate equipment it will need the services of a VW dealer or specialist/independent.
Does anyone know where the sensors to switch on the interior lights when doors are opened are located. I have a problem with the drivers door which keeps turning the interior lights on when I'm driving along.
Opening and shutting the door solved the problem at first but now I think its kaput! Big problem with this is that the central locaking and alarm now don't work!
Any advice much appreciated!
Tim Read more
IIRMC the switch part can be separated from the latch mechanism. Is the car still under warranty? - if so a diagnostic check should pinpoint the problem.
Browse
You'd probably find it harder to insure an intercooler and replacement turbo than just simply declaring a chip.
Yes, you would have to change the ECU or have it reprogrammed.
I have a "box" on my C5 HDI 110, it only smokes in 3rd at max revs. Nothing in 1st or 2nd and you can't legally do it in 4th.
Add a shot of Millers DPP and run on Shell Extra. I'm happy with it.