June 2004
One of my colleagues? at work has reversed into the front drivers door of my Rover.
Damage is two dents and a broken door mirror. The car was hit with some force.
She has admitted liability and payment will be via her insurance.
I have started to get quotes, but the suggested remedy is not consistent.
No.1: (Rover Main dealer): new door skin.
No.2 (large bodyshop linked to Nissan/Rover/VW dealer: repair to dents only.
No.3 (independant BMW Garage which does bodywork for all makes): new door!
The door now has uneven gaps around the edges.
I have no prices yet.
Can I push for a new door, or will the other insurance company try to go with the cheapest option?
Or can the existing door be sucessfully re-aligned after repair?
The car is in extremely good condition, so I want it returned to its previous state.
Any thoughts?
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Previous postings have told of car maintenance CD's offered via eBay and one poster, at least, was satisfied with what was obtained. My experience was not so good. The 'factory Service/Repair manual' turned out to be pretty useless.
It showed me where to plug in an ECU analyser, if I had one! It also displayed a nice table of bolt sizes and their tightening torques. Not where they were, though.
As to information similar to that found in a Haynes manual, forget it. For example: nothing on how to check the oil level in the gearbox/transmission unit, or on how to remove an ignition unit and take out a plug, or where the air and petrol filters are, or anything about lamps etc. No such pictures or information.
The CD appears to be one of a set where each one probably covers a different aspect. This one is probably the least useful of the set. After I emailed the source as to what others were available, (I was looking to buy) I got no reply. Be warned! You can finish up with a nice tea coaster.
Anyone else with any experience?
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My experience is that CD readers vary in their sensitivity. Some are much better than others -- perhaps not so much the more recent ones. So the home PC reading problem could just be that rather than the difference between Win98 and Xp.
In regard to the Nissan CD, I used an Adobe 6 reader. I put the CD in and a list of headings appeared. So far so good. I then clicked the top one, to open up the reading, and then paged down as far as I could go to find out the extent of what was on the disk. I did not realise my roaming was being limited to whatever section I had clicked on. Hence the disappointment.
Trying to page down further just hit an end stop. What I had to do, to read what was in the other sections, was to abort the reader! Then fire it up again so as to get back to the menu list. Then click another heading.
After doing that I found loads of useful information.
I have a 98 Primera and have noticed in the recent hot weather that the air con is not cooling as much as it should.
The system seems to behave OK at motorway speeds, but seems to cut out completely at 30 - 40mph
It was regassed last year, and the problem does not seem to be getting any worse i.e. hopefully not leaking
I assume the problem is that the gas level is too low?, but I have not experienced the same problems between it's usual 2 yearly regassings
Just out of interest, how long do compressors last as the car has done 125,000 miles? Read more
I have a 98 Primera where the air con is not getting cold enough. It has recently been regassed, and checked for leaks which showed the system was OK
However I have noticed that the system is cycling a lot, with the compressor cutting in and out every 1 - 2 minutes. When the compressor is engaged, the air is ice cold. Furthermore the radiator fan seems to be coming up a lot more than usual even though the temp guage reads OK and is in the middle as normal, and there is enough coolant with no leaks
Am I correct in saying that the system has pressure switches (high and low)? Would these problems be caused by a defective switch? or what else can cause these symptoms?. I have the factory manual on CD but unfortunanelty this for is for the P11 model with climate control, so is of no use
I had the system regassed at Halfords and also paid for a full system dianostic, but all they told me is that the sysytem is OK but they noticed it was cycling a lot and did not give a reason or suggestion why. They do not instill a lot of confidence in me, as I think that all they can do is plug cars into the machine which regasses them and nothing else !!!
MG Rover have just signed a full strategic agreement with SAIC (Shanghai Automotive Industry Corporation) which will allow for the joint funding of several new cars pending Chinese government approval. SAIC is one of the largest Chinese manufacturer producing cars under license for GM and VW with little indigenous output.
Previously MGR only had the resources to develop RD/X60 as a hatchback alone. The SAIC deal includes the RD/X60 as a saloon and an MPV version and other 'variants'.
The deal is a major coup as it is a full collabourative agreement unlike the royalty GM and VW based deals. This deal allows MGR to manufacture RD/X60 at Longbridge and SAIC to manufacture RD/X60 in China. Both manufacturers are to share the economies of scale in component costs and also SAIC is eager to fund other new MGR models.
The full story is here
news.ft.com/servlet/ContentServer?pagename=FT.com/...0
As an aside, it's no secret that TATA have also been hiring production staff for RD/X60 for an Indian version of the same car, an announcement was to be made in February but this was delayed and also pulled from the TATA corporate website.
SAIC will have a say in the finalised design of RD/X60.
So it looks like RD/X60 has tapped into the world's largest car markets.
All we need know is to see the car in the metal.
MGR's future looks a lot brighter.
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BMW are not exactly playing ball with the supply of diesel engines to MGR either. They are refusing to offer to supply more as the 75 CDTi is widely known to be a very good diesel car(having won several diesel car awards) and demand for it have increased.
This is also another motivator for MGR developing their own diesel. It looks as if the PSA deal to supply their new diesel have fallen through.
Personally, if it was a good fit, I'd rather see the 2.4 JTD from Fiat go into the 75 in the short term.
Has anybody else stumbled across this site? www.honest-johns.co.uk/acatalog/index.html Not the same one I take it? Read more
Ah but this isn't .com, its a new honest-johns.co.uk
I'd ask for at least a clarifier on their site as you have for hj.com
Does anybody know if it is possible to add an aftermarket A/C unit to my 1.2 16V Clio Dynamique? If so, how much is it likely to set me back? Read more
enquired about this before on an old Golf. most companies charge around £800 -£1000. its often cheaper to change the car as you'll never get the money back from the purchase.
dave
Friend has just taken his 2000 VFR800 FiX for MOT, the tester advised that that the front tyre (Dunlop D208?) had uneven excess wear on the right hand (offside) of the tread. He reckoned that this is sometimes associated with scooters riding off camber in the gutter(my friend doesn't ride in the gutter) or sometimes tyre pressure related, but obviously low pressure would wear both sides evenly. I suggested that it may be due to too many roundabouts, but I am unsure. He is going to replace the tyre, but is a little concerned as to why it happened in the first place.
Any ideas?
Sigma
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You’re spot on regarding head bearings!
I’ve just changed my front tyre because of
excessive wear on the right hand side
The Honda mechanic diagnosed that the head
Bearings are shot!
Is it my bad luck that both a Mk 5 Golf and now my Passat developed seized and worn out the rear pads at 2 1/2 years?
Costing me lots of money to sort today;still under warranty so at the main VW dealer.
Should be gtateful that the discs are OK.
The rear calipers seem to get plastered with road dirt; I try to hose them off gently. Anything else I can do?
--
I wasna fu but just had plenty. Read more
Just wondered whether anyone on here has had any experience of using an Aircon Independent in the Essex area whom they could recommend? I'd like to try getting the aircon sorted out on my Mondeo.
All of the one's listed in HJ's FAQ's are a long way away!
Many Thanks,
Galaxy Read more
Thank you all for your much-valued replies.
I rather looks as if I'll be giving Westfield Motors a call.
Galaxy
The JGC had its last main-dealer service this morning. It's out of warranty already but they gave me a discount voucher for it!
Anyway, they report a back shock absorber is starting to weep. It can't be too bad because it passed the MOT last month! They're quoting £49.95 plus vat and fitting. My questions for those learned backroomers with experience of this sort of thing are:
1. Is this a reasonable price?
2. Would someone like ATS Euromaster be cheaper?
3. Would the job be as good (workmanship and quality of part)
4. Can I get just the one done or should I do the pair?
5. I'm off to la Belle France next week for a couple of weeks - would it be cheaper to go to a Euromaster place there?
Thanks in advance
--
Terry
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I think you answered your own question there.shock absorber/damper both mean the same.controlling shock movement.
or slow it down.varying degrees of makeup of dampers will control the severety of traction loss of road wheel.
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Repairs from 'approved' bodyshops usually come with (at least) a 3 year warranty these days. You can always take it back if you're not happy and insist it's done properly.
A new door is possibly not necessary, but do make sure that the frame isn't very slightly twisted - enough to leave uneven gaps around the frame.
Graeme