February 2004
Dear knowledgable Comrades!!
I am considering purchasing the above probably from West Oxfordshire Motor Auctions. Are there any specifics with this car that I should look out for. All advice gratefully received.
Regards to all. Read more
I am considering buying a new Mondeo LX TDCi 130PS which of course comes complete with the 6-speed box. From time to time I need to pull a trailer (max loaded weight 20cwt)on mixture of motorways and A-roads, and I'm not quite clear on how the 6-speed would cope with this compared with the old 5-speed box. Is the extra gear a pure overdrive-type thing? How does it affect the other gear ratios and final drive ratio compared with the old box? I would be most grateful for any advice/experience. Many thanks, Graham
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Thanks for the info in this post - it was just what I needed. Do you by any chance have the same info, ie mph/1000rpm for 4th and 5th in the superseded five-speed box, please? Many thanks
Graham
Sorry to be a bore, feel free to click on by, but Growlette is not listening to me so I have nowhere else to go to air this..
Since my '66 ragtop Mustang is now residing happily with someone in Staffordshire I have been suffering what my GP cannot diagnose but which anyone in the same boat would recognise as PSD (Post 'Stang Depression). It has to do with the addictive sound and feel of a big-inch American V-8 allied to the scent of hot metal, engine oil and vinyl interior which has been in the hot sun, and presents itself as a condition resembling terminal nostalgia whenever they get out the old Doors music at the local Hole In The Wall Bar (USP=warm beer, weak drinks and ugly women).
And so it was today I have been viewing and driving a '69 Fastback straight out of Bullitt in Angeles City Philippines on the old Clark Field aiurbase. 351 cu in. motor transplanted from a '71, Crane cams, Holley carbs, auto, new tires, metallic blue new paint job, some new gauges inside replacing the stock ones (I think she's been quarter-miled at some time), radio missing, car doubtless a legacy of the US air base at Clark. As always with these old big block live-for-ever Fords, whisper-quiet mechanically, no evidence of smoke but with the bellow of an enraged bull when floored, brutal acceleration, trans takes up with a postive clonk straight away, brakes with loads of travel but work fine, some evidence of the traditional Mustang overheating (it's 34 C today), the anti-diluvian Bendix a/c works fine (the seller has a car air-con shop!), delightfully woolly one-finger p/s, lots of body rattles...
I haven't been underneath yet but rust should not be a big issue in this climate. New belts, hoses, all the electrics seem OK, electronic ignition conversion......
But, along with the exhaust note, that incomparable four-light shark-nose that was just MADE for tail-gating lesser mortals....that satisfying V-8 body wriggle when gunning the engine at the lights.....hairdressers in Beemers eat your hearts out...this is serious muscle.
Nineteen hundred quid and it's yours Guv. What should I do? Haggle for him to put back the 8-track stereo with some Grateful Dead tapes? Cough up and exhume my California Mustang parts catalog in the expectation of being a FedEx's preferred customer for the next few months? Bite the Bullitt? Sign up for the 12-step Muscle Car de-tox programme?.....join the Jim Morrison fan club.....(again).....
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Well the muscle baby is out of the shop with all the front rebuilt by the local wizards.
The '69 Mustang now drives in more or less the same direction as pointed. Simple really, new balljoints and shocks and some wheel alignment courtesy of my local wrencher. Total cost has been $523 for the parts inc Fedex + customs duty from the USA + Ferdie's boys' bill (yet to come) and a case of San Miguel. Not so bad. He also changed the oil for new straight 20w/50 and believe it or not the oil filter from a 2003 Ford F-150 truck fits so we used that. Flushed out the cooling system too. That big ole 351 sounds like a sewing machine, and the burble out the back is something.
Need new tailpipes, not a problem, local muffler shop can fabricate them. If you can't get a part here, there's usually someone who can make it. No working rear lights as yet, don't know what's causing this, but I'll risk it down to my local bar tonight to watch the 6 Nations, Scot vs Eng. The cops should be out of the way in the videoke bars by then -- 1.30 a.m. hehe..
I know I'm going to love this car. Next task, search for a working 8-track player........
...have they done to it ?
Now two sections with one dedicated to super cars and yank junk with just a small section two dedicated to normal cars at normal prices.
Clarkson gets less funny by the month and the new car guide comments are as old as the hills.
Absolute garbage and subscription cancelled forthwith.
Cancelled Diesel Car as well recently. Ivor Carroll gone and a load of kids and feminists writing tosh.
Definitely a gap in the market for a car magazine that covers Peruda Nippa (?) upto BMW 5 Series and no higher. Read more
There's an idea in here somewhere, HJ.
I've a V reg Focus and the remote key & central locking has failed.I've replaced the battery in the key but no joy.The central locking will not work,either from the drivers door or the passenger door.Also the button on the dash to release the boot also fails.I'm able to lock the car from both doors.Any ideas ? Read more
I had a similar problem on a ford mondeo, it turned out ot be the bonnet switch, for the alarm, which had fallen down inside its hole and was shorting out.
Reading the recent thread on driving to Austria (www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=2&t=19...3), someone said that "from here in the Midlands to the Tyrol region it's about 850 miles. We do it in one go usually. It takes about 9 - 10 hours". Someone else made the point that they would have to average 85-95mph, including the ferry crossing.....therefore this would seem to be a case of exaggeration.
The point is, have you noticed that when are talking in a group, and you mention how long it takes you to get from A to B, there is always someone who can do it faster, or knows a quicker route? Read more
Re point 2, more bunching is caused by lane 2 hogs
than lorries overtaking up hills...
Maybe so but wait till all those vehicles >3.5t mgvw get 90 kph speed limiters, not so long now!!!
Then we'll see snail racing par excellence!
I noticed on the way home that one of my front main beam lights has packed up (2002 model). The manual tells me that it's dead hard to do myself and I should let a dealer do it.
Has anyone changed one and is it easy/difficult? Read more
I've only had my dipped beams fail but as the bulbs are the same the procedure should be the same. The access is a problem and either the aircleaner cover or radiator header tank cover need removing to get access. The holder for H7 bulbs is a bayonet twist out design and not a spring clip type as per the older H4 bulb. Take the holder and bulb out together then remove bulb. Having small hands would be a help -I could barely grasp the bulb holder with my size 12s. Local store did anonymous brand replacements at £5.95.They look fine.
I have just had two tyres replaced on the my Skoda Fabia tdi.
I am just interested in knowing what would be a typical UK price for this (I live in Spain)
Two Michelin Energy 185.60 R14 H, balancing, 2 valves, balancing, wheel alignment (needed!) total cost, inc VAT 188.62 Euros or about 130 quid.
Oh - natioal chain similar to Kwik Fit, labour rate 30.02 euros per hour - about £20.75 and they checked the brake pads & discs! Read more
Also, www.e-tyres.co.uk gave me a good price on my eco-contacts - very professional service, too.
Does a highway authority owe any duty of care to a resident who's boundary wall is frequently being demolished by turning vehicles?
The problem occurs in a close where the 'T' end of it gets obstructed by parked vehicles. Gentle approaches for improved parking from the main offender, who lives at the 'T' end, have little or no effect. A request to the authority for the placing of yellow lines in the turning area has been dismissed by saying it would not get past the necessary consultation of neighbours.
Typically a vehicle drives to the 'T' end and turns to the right side of the 'T'. The first reverse takes account of an obstruction in the left part of the 'T' and so goes backwards across at an angle towards a boundary wall. The pavement on that side is only one small slab wide and a car boot hits the wall before its wheels touch the curb. Thus a rebuilt wall soon has cracks appearing in it and only lasts about 3 years.
Mostly the offenders are never caught and the rebuilding expense falls on the householder.
The road authority's reply to a request for help with abating the nuisance was an offer of an improved 'no through road' sign at the close entrance to reduce the number of vehicles entering the close by error.
It is one particular 3 metre part of the wall that gets hit. Even the offer of a few concrete posts in the gutter would help to defend it.
With the situation as is, the only practical option is not to rebuild the wall any more. Vehicles would then push into garden bushes. Hopefully not going across into the garden itself.
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A few helpful suggestions there, thanks.
I did think of excavating, say 3 feet deep, for a 30 inch square post made of 3:2:1 ready-mix and placed at the usual impact point but thought a lorry -- of the usual delivery sought --- might still be able to push it over and then there would be a big job with a pneumatic drill as it would be too big to put back upright. Going to the length of including a support beam behind it going down at 45 degrees to a ground block to take the force is a bit over the top for a 30 inches high resident's wall.
The crash barrier is probably the best idea but would probably get knocked over so would have to be compare it to re-building a separate 'collapsible' 3 yard/metre wall length. Which is the best I can come up with.
I was hoping I could persuade the road authority to fit 3 foot high concrete posts in the gutter and let them do the replacing. After all, they chose a 24 inch pavement width and refuse to dedicate the turning area.
I've just been informed by Chiswick Honda that the introduction of the diesel CRV has been put back until probably 2006 because of technical problems associated with fitting it in the CRV chassis.
In fact it may not be used in the CRV until the new/facelifted model scheduled for 2006.
BTW they also told me that Honda were only building 6000 diesel engines as it would not be on sale in Japan or USA. They will then reappraise the situation.
This may explain why I could not negotiate much of a discount on a new Accord Tourer diesel, which is superb,as numbers are limited.
I hope this info is of interest to backroomers who have shown an interest in Honda's wonderful new diesel.the situation may change re the CRV as Honda Japan are keeping tight lipped.
HectorG Read more
I'm rather peed off as I paid a deposit on a new diesel Accord Tourer on 6th November. I was told it should arrive towards the end of January/beginning of February. Now I'm told it will be end of March/early April.
I taxed my present car for six months only, as I expected to have my new car before the tax was due. Looks as if I'll have to tax it again from 1st April.
Browse
Just came across this and the only thing I would say is that if I really felt the need to buy an ex-police car (I dont, btw) it certainly wouldnt have a turbo on it. Having owned many turbo motors, I know the quickest way to kill them is not to warm the oil up before coming on boost and turning off the engine without letting the turbo become stationary (upto 3-4 mins if you have been caning it).
Given that most police cars have to be caned as soon as they are started, and probably arent left running when back in the garage, you can almost guarantee premature turbo failure and some of the nasties that sometimes come with it...
Cheers,
Pad