August 2003
Hello all:
My 1999 Mondeo 1.6LX is now approaching 70k miles. I plan to have the cambelt changed at the 70k service, about 12 months and 10k miles ahead of the Ford recommended interval.
I was told by my (independent) garage man that I need a cambelt change kit, not just a belt. My F-i-L works for a Ford dealer, so can source parts with a discount, so I asked him to get me one. The advice from his parts counter is that a kit is not provided for this model because the tensioner has been improved and does not need changing - only the belt itself is required.
Clearly I don't want to run a significant risk of tensioner failure, but equally I don't want to waste money buying parts that are not needed!
What do y'all think or know?
Thanks
Andy Read more
Yeah auction report!
Back to stay hopefully. Read more
Have an S REG 2.0i Ghia. Been running "Lumpy" for a few weeks. Happens when idling and accelerating. Much worse with aircon on.
Plugs are plat and only 10K old, new ignition leads, all new filters and venturi cleaned out. Local garage have two suggestions from Ford ( can't remember what! ) but will cost around £30 a go.
Ford dealer wants 92 quid to hook up to diagnostic machine.
Anyone know a good independent Ford Garage who can run the diagnostics cheap or free!?
Many thanks. Read more
Plugs may be platinum and 10k old but if the old leads were tracking down the side of the plug then even with the new leads the tracking will continue. You will need to whizz the plugs out and check for tracking on 3 + 4. If evident then nothing for it- new plug and lead set.If all ok in this department then bite the bullet and go for a diagnostic check.
Andrew
Simplicate and add lightness!
Hi everyone
I'm starting to suspect the problem with my old Golf GTI is more serious than I thought. It has definitely got more rattly the last couple of times I drove it, and I have noticed the following:
At around 2000 rpm on a trailing throttle, the oil pressure shows 45psi. The moment I apply power, even a tiny amount, the oil pressure drops 8-10 psi, then recovers as the engine speed increases. If I accelerate then lift off the throttle, the oil pressure increases the moment I lift off. If I 'feather' the throttle, gently opening and closing it, I can get the oil pressure gauge to move up and down without any significant change in the engine speed.
It's a mechanical gauge: I reckon that under power the crankshaft is being forced downwards by the action of the conrods, away from the oil feed holes in the journals (hence the drop in pressure). And if there's enough slop in the main bearings to do that, I've got a major problem.
Unless anyone has a less expensive explanation?
Richard Hall
bangernomics.tripod.com Read more
Oh good.
please list them.
There are many motor engineers here.
Yes, just what you want, motor manufacturing employees from blue-chip motor manufacturers and all that.
Help us, and my friends and I will help you.
Fair deal?
Once the car is warmed up and I stop to say buy a paper/petrol,the car will not start.I have to wait say 5minutes and then it starts first time.It does not happen all the time but can happen 2/3 times a week,then perhaps a month no problem.
Rover 416 sli auto L reg.I have been told it is fuel evaporation and to change route of fuel lines but am worried about insurance implications and cost. Could it be something else ?
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Ignition amplifier? Could be either the relay or amp.
To Whom it may concern,
I am sick to the back teeth of seeing money being squandered on unneccessary road projects whilst the roads themselves are left in an appalling state. If I say "traffic calming" I'm sure you all understand.
I challenge any road planners reading this to justify their measures. You can fill our roads with speed humps & other ridiculous street 'furniture' but could not care less about the damage said humps & untended potholes cause to our vehicles!
Another cheesed off motorist Read more
35 years ago German cities had coordinated traffic lights such that if you recahed one on a green and drove just below the speed limit you would get to all further lights on a green too, subject to traffic conditions. If you joined a main road like this you would also get early warning signs, telling you at what speed to drive to get the next light on a green. No information meant that you couldn't get a green if you stuck to the limit.
I am interested to know whether one might have a case against any council or authority if you damage the underside of your car on any hump or speed cushion or whatever, while driving below the posted speed limit for the road in question. Do an BR members have information or experience of this please?
I have a 306 XSi 1998 model, does anyone know how to program the keyfobs to enable them to work the remote central locking and alarm??
Thanks all
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Peugeot Dealership only I'm afraid.
I'm not sure what these mail order alarm remote people could do?
Has been incorporated into the "Speeding (mostly excl cameras) VIII" Thread.
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=2&t=14...5
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Just wondering, how many QX owners are there on this forum? (Other than Aprilla and I)
I have an slight glitch with the interior dash-light adjustor. I have never used it until these very sunny days and I just noticed it does not adjust, after driving it for 20k! Nothing major but would like to repair it (at near zero cost) if possible. I am handy with soldering.
FYI,
I have just found out the servicing costs differential for my QX at different main dealer! All price inc. VAT.
Place / Oil-service(A) / Minor(B) / Major(C)
Cambridge / ~180 / ~300 / ~450
Near M25 J26 / ~69 / ~119 / ~189
Near M20 J12 / ~59 / ~119 / ~159 Read more
Mine has done 112k. Also sorry that I have not replied your mail yet, Aprilia. I shall do so on Thursday or Friday when I get a little free time.
FYI! I have just been rear-ended at 5.30pm today on Blackwall Tunnel Northern Approach by an agressive and unreasonable motorist (He would not even give me his address, despite asking twice. However, he is bigger than me and quite aggressive so I did not argue).
It was a black, blackened windows car, with an unreadable plate. It could be EDZ113 or BDZ113 or EDZ1B or BDZ1B. It could be a Toyota or Lexus but I am not sure. If anyone can make out what car and plate it should be, or witness the accident, please contact me.
I have contacted the Police, insurance company and my solicitor.
Just completed a rather nice M25/M11 run to Stansted. Between the Dartford Tunnel and J27 there were several sets of road works ahead signs but no sign of any work being done (thankfully). I don't know how long they've been there or when the roadworks were completed but I'd have thought it a relatively simple task to remove
these as soon as the work was completed. Thankfully there wasn't much traffic about so it didn't matter all that much but I can't help thinking that phantom road signs like these (and indeed false matrix warning signs) are quite dangerous.
Anyone got any thoughts ? Read more
It's not just the motorways that can have phantom road works. Here in West Wales they still operate with 3 men in an old pickup, the roadside hut, and a collection of road furniture.
Day 1: dump equipment by roadside, set up lights, cones etc, sit in van eating sandwiches, go home.
Day 2 : second van arrives, more equipment dumped, still no roadworks
Day 3 : lights have broken, been knocked over by tractor, or need shifting to include an even longer section of road.
Day 4 : Mark out a few holes ready for digging, but digger not arrived yet, so just tea, sandwiches, then pack up.
Days 5 to 5+x, where x is a very big number: Do the miniscule amount of cosmetic work that was actually needed.
D-Day : work finished, but leave lights for the clearing-away team to remove.
D-day plus 5: everything now removed, traffic flowing again.
D-Day plus 10: time to dig some new trenches in the nice new surface, because a different team need to put down drains, cables, etc etc.
And so on, indefinitely, until the road is due for resurfacing again, or the almost limitless road budget is ready for topping up in the new financial year.
Browse
In the later handbooks it says 100,000 miles or 10 years for life of cambelt with the later type of engine (black cam cover). However, I don't think that I'd let mine go that far; would probably go along with Andrew's recomendation regardless of what the handbook says.