March 2003
Just so I can be sure - does anybody know if the standard spec for the electric mirrors on this model included the electric folding function, or was this an optional extra? My car has the electric mirrors but they only fold manually. When the car was being sorted out for me prior to collection, they replaced the mirror knob which had been broken off by the previous owner. The new one has a symbol for folding mirrors on its surround, but when I click the knob into that position nothing happens. They said it was just because that was the only switch surround they had at the time. It's not that I'd be lost without the function, but I want to make sure I'm not being fobbed off - it seems odd to me that you would have to specify electronic folding separately when electronic adjustment is already there. Read more
It's said that its impossible to buy a bad new car nowadays, but is it true? I have had a go in a couple recently that I would categorise as having design flaws bad enough to ruin the car.
206cc - The roof is a costly failure waiting to happen. I have even seen one that has never been in an accident that has a twisted roof.
Mini with CVT transmision (Note: I am knocking the CVT version only) It's jerky, has little standing start acceleration, can be really thristy (under 20 mpg) and must be the only automatic that feels like it's going to stall!
Now I know that I might upset some people, but I really do think that these two models were completely underdeveloped.
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A few early C5s had teething troubles. Some of them were bought by owners who had little or no knowledge of Citroens, but who were attracted by unbeatable good deals. Others were serviced by dealers who simply hadn't had time to catch up with the technology.
This did not, however, make them 'bad' - or even intrinsically 'unreliable' cars. Not by a long chalk!
How many 'problems' crop up on the 'technical' threads with C5s? How many with Mondeos, or Focii, or Vauxhalls.......I could go on.
C5s put me in mind of Baddiel and Skinner's theme tune
'It'll never work....it'll never work.....'
Of course it does - supremely well - warts and all! Please don't tell everyone, though, because sales will take off and Citroen will feel less inclined to offer cashback to mugs like me.
Graeme
This may be sound like a really stupid question but I assume that the three year rule regarding new new cars not needing an MOT test until they reach this age also applies to motorcycles.
Am I right in this assumption? Read more
Absolutely correct, Simon.
I was thinking today about those sunshades that are placed inside the car against the windscreen, specifically the aluminium foil type. The set up is exactly the same as the solar heating panel on the roof of my son's house - a glass panel with the reflector placed about three inches below it. According to the specs. of the heater, it produces temperatures of more than 150C.in bright sunlight. This should ensure that the inside of the car gets nice and warm!
A black shade would get hot on its surface, but wouldn't cause the same heat build up,-perhaps the most efficient surface colour for cooling would be a mid grey.
Any reflections on the subject from Backroomers?
P. Read more
I'd much rather have the slight sauna effect that comes from the sunshade than burning my hands on my Disklok - and that's before I can drive using only my index fingers ;-)
My father has a problem with cold starting on his Laguna estate, 2-litre 1996. It has been in the local Renault dealer for 4 weeks, and they have been singularly incapable of finding any faults. They have replaced the cat with no improvement, so put the old one back on. Ditto ECU. Ditto idle control unit. The diagnostic equipment fails to show any faults. The plugs are 4000 miles old. The cold start sensor is apparently OK. The car has done 84000 miles & has been regularly serviced since new. It might be relevant that the dealer also says it's running a bit rough when they do get it going. Starting when warm isn't usually a problem.
Has anyone got any bright ideas what the problem might be, as the dealer seems to be totally useless - they can't even be bothered to ring Renault UK for advice. Alternatively, can anyone recommend a good Renault specialist (or even a decent dealer) in the Portsmouth area. Read more
Trouble is, it's stuck at the main dealer's, and has been for 4 weeks......luckily my father has borrowed some alternative transport, as they don't seem in any rush to fix it, and their communication is rubbish. They have apparently called in an "expert" from Renault UK who is going to look at it. Pulling it out at this stage still means that he'll have to pay a hefty labour bill, so I think we'll leave it for another couple of days & then beat them up again. I asked home to mention the temperature sensor but not sure whether he has or not.
Thanks for the tip anyway, it would have been my first choice given what else they've done.
Just been browsing the Autotrader website and came across a 2000 W Corolla 1.4 with everything for £2.5k.ono. but says "sadly on V-CAR.."
What does that mean?!
Cheers.
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Written off by insurance company.
Either too expensive to repair with new parts or stolen/recovered.
I've seen the archive posts about the 1.1 Fiesta emulsifying up - it appears to be a common problem.
The car did have a blown head gasket and the repairers replaced the thermostat since they said the car had been running a bit warm....
Since my daughter does 20 miles a day between two towns , I would not consider this a car-killing journey.
Is it worthwhile to consider changing the thermostat to one that opens at a hotter temp ? Running on a different oil ?
All help appreciated. Read more
Having had several Fiestas (and currently two including a 1.1) I wouldnt put in fully synthetic oil, it could well lead to other problems as referred to in numerous other threads. One point, which hasn't been mentioned above, is to replace the PCV valve which is a small rubber mushroom valve located in the air cleaner housing. Under full engine load, but when the vacuum is weak, this valve opens and the emission gases are directed into the engine via the air filter to be burnt off. Its a very cheap item and just a press fit into the air cleaner housing. I believe the part number (FINIS code) is 1654018. Also be sure to clear the two small holes which are close by its location; their purpose is to bleed air into the system to prevent a high vacuum build up. If you notice yellow emulsion its well worh while using a Flushing oil when making an oil change. That, together with the cleaning of hoses/orifices etc which have been referred to in other answers, should make a big difference. And do 'intermediate' oil changes, oil is cheap and there is no reason to not to change it at much more frequent intervals than the service schedule indicates. Dont change it every 18 months just because thats what the mileage interval indicates ! Change it in the autumn and again in the spring (even if its only a 1000 miles) and you will virtually eliminate that yellow emulsion problem in my experience!
I recently read an article in Professional Motor Mechanic written by Keith Rudd of Exide Technologies that the cars of the future will require 36 volt batteries and 42 volt electrical systems. He talks of cars requiring between 12 and 14 kW, electrically powered oil and water pumps, electrically assisted cat converters and starter alternators. Instantaneous engine start times of 220 to 300 milliseconds and reduced fuel consumption of 10% to 15%. All very interesting but I assume that this is going to be a very expensive car with more electrical systems than an aeroplane. I personally can not imaging a car that requires 12 to 14 kW to run it that is a huge load that takes 20 HP out of the engine. Mat this guy meant 14kw to start it. Apparently the battery manufacturers and vehicle makers have been working closely to develop 42V systems. Have any of you read of this and any time scales envisaged Regards Peter Read more
The best and simplest explanations are on Teves' site. There are other projects/companies working on this but its a clear explanation.
tinyurl.com/8klw
When you go to that page what we are really talking about are EMB electro mechanical brakes which is one of the links on that page. The EMB are the only ones that do away with hydraulic circuits by using electrical motors to actuate the brakes.
The others are hybrids eg electro-hydraulic brakes etc.
Sometimes wonder if we really need or want all this complication.
Hi, i have just bought a fiesta rs turbo and it was running fine till the other day. i was sitting on the carriageway and it started to give a misfire when i put my foot down. i got it home and left it over night. now if i start it up it runs for about 2 minutes then just cuts out .... if i drive it, and put my foot down to quickly i get a bad misfire and the car seems to kick back. if i am gentle with the pedal i can get some boost off the turbo but if im too hasty it just shakes and kicks back. if i'm pullling away from junctions i have to give it high revs and pull away on the clutch or it stalls. i took it to a mechanic, he changed the fuel filter as it was full of dirt, and he said the pipe to it was kinked. i dont know where to start with it really so if anyone has any suggestions i would be reall grateful. someone suggested to me it could be the fuel pump?
james wills. Read more
Along time ago a customer brought an Escort turbo into our garage. He was at his wits end He'd been to the main agent and various independant outfits without success. He had allsorts of problems with it , it wouldn't run,rev etc etc. Long and short of it was a split intake pipe ( one of the large rubber ones, to the turbo if I remember correctly ).It may involve taking these pipes off to check but it's worth it. I got a large tip for sorting it ! Of course this may not be your particular fault but it's fairly easy to check .
This is my first post - hope somebody out there can help me out! I've recently bought a mint full dealer history 1999 Omega CDX 2.0 auto estate with leather with slightly high miles (81,000), in navy metallic with mushroom leather. I think I had a good deal - paid £5100 for it but am interested to hear hwat anybody else thinks about the deal.
According to the trip computer and my own calculations I'm averaging 22mpg. Nearly all the driving is urban but even then I was hoping for a bit better fuel economy: a friend has a manual version, 5 years older than mine and averages almost 30mpg. Is my car's mpg about right or heavy?
Also because of the consumption I'm thinking of converting to LPG. I've done the maths and anticipate a payback period of about 14months which is fine as I love the car and intend to keep it for much longer than that. Does anybody have any advice to assist? I've done a bit of searching for help elsewhere but you chaps seem to be the most knowledgeable. Hope you can help me out,
regards
GaryJ Read more
Only on alternate Wednesdays...;-)
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Just to add more confusion - there is a 2001 PassatSE in our family. It's loaded with extras (xenon headlamps, special tinted windows, cruise, rain sensor, etc.) but no electric folding mirrors!