December 2002
I see that someone (in Saturday's Telegraph) has had the temerity to challenge HJ's advice about the frequency of oil changes (a braver man than me, evidently!).
The fool goes on to suggest that his Skoda Octavia is fine with its oil changes at 20,000 miles.
What I should like to know is:
a) who is this character, so we may avoid his car when he finally parts with it?
b) how much oil will be left to change when the engine starts to wear (any day now) and it starts consuming the stuff?
I remember when 1000 miles/pint was considered negligible... Read more
The brake lights on my 1981 J REG E36 series BMW 318i,have both suddenly stopped working.I've checked the bulbs and replaced them even though they looked ok to me.I checked the fuse and that also looks ok.Any ideas?
P.S. A couple of weeks ago i took the car to have the brake fluid changed as the inspection clock light came on despite still having 4 green led lights lit. Any connection,no pun intended.
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Sounds like the brake light sender switch.
Don't know where this is located on your car, though.
I have just purchased a 1999 V-plate Mondeo TD but I am finding it difficult to start first thing in the mornings, the engine turns and seems to splutter but cuts out, this will go on a good few more times as I crank the engine when finally it will spring to life and fires up very much like a flooded engine with plenty of smoke from the exhaust...
Once running it clears itself and runs perfect and clean, its also worth pointing out that through the rest of the day it doesn't seem to be a real problem to start only on the initial start up in the mornings..
I have just fitted new champion glowplugs without any benefit. I have also noticed on the Diesel pump their is 2 cables one of which is the accelerator and the other seems to go down to a module below the battery, this cable doesn't seem to work from cold or when ever the car is placed in reverse, apparently this could be a system that picks up the revs when reverse is selected or a waxstat? either way I havn't got a clue...
One more question is when the ignition is first turned on there seems to be a noise comefrom the pump for a couple of seconds like a selenoid running, but in my mind it doesn't sound quite right and is there such a thing on the pump called a cold start valve?
The car has done 94,000 mls and has been regulary serviced, Any suggestions would be much appreciated!!!
Many Thanks
Tony
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My 309 Diesel has a cable (similar to yours?) on a lucas/CAV pump which speeds up the revs for a cold start. Mine is attached to a seperate thermostat in the thermostat housing. If yours is a similar set up i would suggest it is the same.
Tom
Hi,
I am thinking of covering my light coloured car seats with car covers available from Halfords? Do they fit in nicely? Any experiences please?
Thankyou in advance Read more
No experience, but in case you haven't thought of this - make sure that your car doesn't have airbags in the outer part of each seat, or the seat covers will have to be ones adapted for this.
My 1998 1.8LX 406 (40,000 miles) has developed a high pitched whining noise when the clutch is on the point of engaging. It goes as soon as the clutch is fully engaged and the clutch is working OK. I am surprised there should be any clutch problems at this mileage.
Any ideas what is wrong?
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I'd be concerned about the release bearing, although the symptons are slightly different from normal.
I went to the store the other day, and I was in there for only about 5 minutes.
When I came out there was a damn motorcycle cop writing a parking ticket. So I went up to him and said, "Come on, dogbreath, how about giving a guy a break?"
He ignored me and continued writing the ticket. So I called him a pencil-necked n***. He glared at me and started writing another ticket for having worn tyres!
So I called him a piece of horse s**t. He finished the second ticket and put it on the windshield with the first. Then he started writing a third ticket for a cracked windshield. This
went on for about 20 minutes.
The more I abused him, the more tickets he wrote.
I didn't care. My car was parked around the corner.
I try to have a little fun each day. It's important Read more
According to an evironmental programme I heard recently, it takes the entire output of a small power station just to keep the UK's traffic lights running.
If we changed to LED lights, available for years, the consumption would be reduced to a small fraction of that currently required, and costly maintenance would be reduced to a miniscule amount owing to the extremely long life of the LED units.
Singapore have, apparently, replaced all their old traffic lights but our 'Kyoto committed' lot haven't because there is no incentive for them to do so - local councils 'get the electricity free' (in other words, we pay for it) so do not have to even consider the cost, not even when installing new sets of lights.
Another splendid example of 'joined up government' ! Read more
Not that I've ever seen, and I look at the things all day and most of the night! Not sure if that would be easy (or indeed necessary!) with LEDs though.
Hi,
I am looking for the Volvo garage manuals for the 400 series (440/60/80). I guess you can't get these from WHSmith, what's the normal story behind these ending up in private hands?
Any tips gratefully received!
Dan Read more
Try searching ebay.co.uk , sometimes you can find them there but are normally 2 or 3 times the price of a haynes manual.
As to how people come by them , some owners groups have members on the inside who can get older stuff as it becomes discontinued.
my daugter runs a 1989 metro which has done 51000 miles. the engine seems to run on after being turned off, I assume it must be carbonised up. Does any body out there recommend a decent addictive or cleaner. Also the suspension needs pumping up , do I have to take it to a main dealer for this, or is there another way of doing this. thanks.
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90% of running-on problems on Metro are due to excessive idle speed, and / or induction air leaks contributing to excessive idle speed. So, pay particular attention to ignition timing and carb settings to get idle as low as possible - aim for 750rpm with headlights and HRW switched on. Check that distributor vacuum advance diaphragm is working - it is a "direct vacuum" supply from carb so works at idle, and diaphragm failure results in an air leak into the manifold. If you still experience running on then the anti-run-on valve mentioned elsewhere will be the only answer short of de-coking. As far as additives are concerned Forté Gas Treatment is your best bet, but only available from garages who use their products - call 024 7647 4069 to find your nearest stockist.
Regards, Adam
Hi all,
Just wondering if anybody could help with a problem my brother is having. Last night he set-off in first, went to change into second, and while letting the clutch up all he heard was a 'thunk' and now second gear is like neutral. All the other gears appear fine.
Anybody have any ideas/suggestions before he takes it into a main dealer (probably in tears)
Regards
Graham Read more
Thanks for all your replies. Ive passed on your messages and will keep you informed of future developments.
Graham
A loss-leader no more, then. Shame.
Thanks for the Halfords tip, though, Henry. I just might pay them a visit...