December 2002

afterburner

Please could someone help me on this annoying problem?

Cavalier Mk3 SRi G plate

Replaced the battery, and now the car will not run.

It turns over ok, but seems not to fire?, replaced the air box, there is nice atomised fuel on all four cylinders excellent sparks.

It usually started first time every time, replaced ECU and ignition relay, fuel pump working fine.

Anyone have any ideas?, will not go on a bump start or whilst being towed either.

:( Read more

dan

Speaking entirely as a clueless monkey but with direct experience of which you speak:
Try jump starting it with a mains powered starter thing (whilst its still plugged in). Some cars can turn over great, spark etc.. but not start - battery hasn't got the 'right' oomph.
Does it start if you push start it? Does your battery cell(s) gas when you attempt a start? Perhaps your sparks are wrong (gap too big) or the spark is weak cos your discap is worn out/coked up.

dom grimes

Does nayone know of a website which works out how much cash is needed to compensate for a company car. I've found plenty which work out the tax

regards

Dominic Read more

smokie

Any accountants know of changes in the rules for use of private car on company business from April 2003? 2 mates of mine think there are changes...

DavidHM

The prices are good, but if they've all got 90-odd thousand miles on them, the savings aren't that big and close enough to auction prices (maybe £200 below what they'd make on a good day) to make it worthwhile to get the punters in and sell them something else.

If you'd paid anywhere near full price for these, you'd have been stitched up big time. (£6k for a five year old Brava? I don't think so!)

So all in all, if these cars have been on the forecourt for ages and they'd otherwise have been auctioned (imagine trying to shift a Focus saloon in purple) then Carland is about £1k down and has probably spent 20 or even 50 times that on adveritsing the allegedly massive savings. Read more

Galaxy

I went to Carland in West Thurrock a couple of years ago when I was looking around for another car.

I've never come across another dealership like it! From the moment that you enter their door you are pestered by one of their "advisers" who really won't leave you alone. They ask you all sorts of questions like what car you're looking for, how much you want to spend and, of course, about finance arrangements. I only went in to have a quick look round, like I had at many other used car dealerships in the area, without all this hassle. They just wouldn't leave you alone.

I was just about to turn tail and walk out when the "adviser" finally agreed to let me do what I had come in in the first place to do; just have a quick look around at their cars for sale.

I needn't have bothered! They were all high mileage examples, hence what seem at first to be low prices, but, when you take the mileage into account, they aren't. Condition of some wasn't wonderful, either, with stone chips on the front being quite common, as were imperfect interiors.

My advice, all things considered, is to stay away from Carland!!!

David R

I am fairly new to diesel, having got a Seat Alhambra TDi a couple of months ago, and have had time to consider the characteristics of the engine.

The good
Effortless cruising and overtaking
Blinding economy

The bad
Urban driving.

Before I got a diesel I was led to understand that the huge torque pulled you in pretty much any gear. Where we live is heavy on roundabouts, and it seems pretty easy to get stuck in a the wrong gear with no power. I also have an old 115bhp BMW 318 petrol which will hit a roundabout in 4th gear with not much more than 1000rpm and still pull away ok. The diesel is left powerless and needs a gear or two dropped. Basically I seem to change gear a lot in the diesel when urban, which is not what I expected. I suspect part of the problem is generally tall gearing, although the engine seems to have a power dead spot below 1500rpm before the turbo kicks in. Is this the usual diesel experience? Still love the car though

David Read more

Shigg

I can't agree with the bikers part, I've got a bike and a twist & go. But some of the people that ride bikes are stupid, funnily enough the worst seem to be the ones who own a bike as a fair weather toy. I think that generally people who ride in all weather have real appreciation of the dangers of speed, road conditions, etc.

Steve.

Oz

My 320d was new in March 2001.
On just two occasions in 21 months, after starting, the engine idled in what can only be described as an 'abnormal' mode - with much vibration (the descriptions 'shaking' or 'oscillating' could well describe it). In this mode the engine did not respond to use of the accelerator. Therefore, I switched off without further delay, and after re-starting, the engine ran normally. I have no clue as to why this occurred - the last occasion was months ago. Could it be that I didn't hold the key in 'start' position for long enough and the engine management system was not 100% operative?
My local BMW dealer was likewise mystified, and failed both to reproduce the effect or suggest a reason.
In all other respects the car has started and run totally reliably.
Read more

Pete F

I am not familiar with the exact details of this design but the 320d is fitted with a dual mass flywheel. Sometimes with these devices, they can go into a resonance if the engine is not cranked for long enough, with symptoms as described. The answer is to ensure that you keep the starter on for long enough. You should be able to note that the starter will autiomatically stop cranking even though the key is still in the crank position when engine idle speed is established.
Peter F

complete novice

I have a 1999 golf tdi import- engine gone- french dealer trying to wrangle out of any responsibility- have full vw service history- can anyone help?
Sold me extended VW guarantee in france, which apparantly they had no right to do-VW said this.
I am due on a holiday of a lifetime to Australia next week- can't afford new engine and dream holiday- any suggestions?
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DavidHM

Good answer Daryl. In UK law at least, the fact that they had no right to sell you the warranty doesn't mean that they didn't accept responsibility, regardless of issues of cross border trade under EU law.

If your point on EU law is not accepted, VW France is out of the picture, but there is still a contract between you and the dealer. At the very least, they will have to refund you the few hundred you would have paid for this warranty as even VW says that the contract is void.

Secondly, look for a rebuilt or exchange engine. I would guess that the VW franchise want something like £2500 for the engine; a rebuilt or low mileage scrapyard part should be about £800 or so. At a guess.

Oh, and ever, nothing in this post is legal advice, but you are not high and dry.

Dave_TD

Hi guys (and gals), I'm hoping someone has an easy answer to this one...

Assuming someone has got hold of the spare key to my car (01Y Octavia 1.9SDi, transponder immobiliser), how can I immobilise it so they still can't take it away? Is there an easy option, similar to removing the rotor arm on a petrol car? It's only going to be an issue til after the weekend, so I'm looking for something to unplug rather than something requiring any tools or lots of time. And I can't guarantee to be able to block it in when I'm not working.

All help appreciated!

Dave. Read more

Dave_TD

Ah, mechanical fuel lift pump here, sorry...
No trouble with the skoda disappearing yet, just removed the fuse from the "engine control" position, seems to do the trick.
Maybe I should wire a hidden switch in sometime though, in case this happens again?

shaun

Posting this for a friend. His '91 mitsubushi V6 3.0 auto shogun's temp sender unit has gone, stealer wants £45, does anyone know of an alternative supplier? Any help appreciated. Read more

John Davis

I don't know of a direct replacement sender but, a look at
< www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk >, who have an online catalogue, my show something. I got my very accurate Durite gauge, c/w sender and adpator from them at less than £45.

CM

Could anyone let me know the details of an alloy wheel repairer in SW London?

Advice would be appreciated Read more

DenisO

There's a place called Lepsons in Gillingham 01634 580582. They're a bit out of SW London but did an excellent job on a wheel for me recently which I thought was a write off. £25 + VAT so quite reasonable. They may be a national franchise so give them a call to see if they have a local depot to you. Also check under "Wheels" in the Yellow pages.

spunkmyer

Ok here's the problem hope you can help............

I have been given a blue Escort 1.4 L 89(G) body clean, no rust to be seen in the normal places.

Drives and handles nice for a car of this age, it has done 100137 miles.

The Engine is dirty due to the oil filler cap blowing off at start up (this happerns at when the engine is cold and has not been started for a few days) most likly due to the last oil change being five years ago!!!.

The engine has a rattling noise which all cvh engines have mostly when you accelerate between 40-50 mph in fifth gear, in this car that noise is heard when you try to hold the speed at 50-60 mph in fouth or fifth gear and it is loud?

Is it one of the following:
1: Worn big/main bearings
2: Worn camshaft
3: Worn crankshaft
4: Pinking due to wrong timing due to lack of love
5: Pinking due to old owners use of unleaded in a leaded car and allowing for this in the timing

Hope you can help
SM

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NormanB

Hi SM

I am sorry to read of the terminal state of your unit after all the effort you expended upon it - you really deserved to succeed.

Hope you have better luck finding a decent swap out.

NormanB