Yep - basically a fairly good strong car - if possible go for the SDi intercooled model gives better performance and slightly better economy.
Watch out for oil leaks from the oil pump area, coolant leaks from the thermostat housing at the front of the engine, cracked/broken/missing underbelly acoustic trays (Expensive), cambelt & fuel pump belt change at 84000 miles. Check that the radio and remote control on the steering wheel works and also check that you recieve TWO sets of keys with TWO remote controls as the key will be useless to start the engine on its own without the remote. Another remote will cost about £80.
Good luck, look around and be fussy, there are plenty out there.

Paul,

Yes it is reasonable to expect the repair to last longer than three years. The intention is that repairs are carried out to makers standards and should last as well as the rest of the car.

With respect to Simon and others in his trade it seems in many cases it is impossible to replicate the high standards of factory rustproofing we now take for granted. I think it is this expectation rather than poor workmanship that is the problem.

Just as an example.....

In the 1980s I owned a Citroen DS and Rover 3500, each being about seven years old. Both were in need of panel replacement, some structural welding and bottom half re-sprays. This was absolutely normal at the time for cars of this age.

In fact every second-hand dealer had a tame spray-shop to do a quick blow over prior to sale. This was because cars rusted then from five years onwards. I even remember looking at an Escort at the main Ford dealers during this period, they had filled and sprayed most of the car due to rust ready for retail sale. You never see anything like that at a main dealer now, anything tatty goes straight to the auction.

Smaller dealers that spray cars prior to sale now are likely to do so because they are trading in accident repairables, not rust heaps.

How does this nostalgia trip (again guys) relate to your query? Well take similar cars to my example now, say a seven year old Citroen Xantia. Look for rust, none on the panels, none on the underbody. In fact with a quick pressure wash and extra Wxaoyl underneath you can imagine it looking the same in another seven years.

And there's the problem for the body shops now. At some point the repair will show before the rest has given any problems.

David

More on the "Damage whilst you rented the car, sir" scam.

Check the "Vehicle Condition Report" very carefully before countersigning. If the lot is dark insist an employee of the rental company joins you on a look round with a torch to look at the damage declared and the damage that isn't. Ignore the comments about "trivial" damage and have all blemishes recorded on the form.

I have recently had a run in with one of the majors who tried to hang a significant ding on a door onto me. The car was fine when I dropped the keys into the box - who knows what happened thereafter.

My favourite rental lot is at Stansted Airport, where you have to walk back a good half mile to alert staff at the rental counter in the terminal.

Let the renter beware!

I think it has got to be on the Highways Agency site.

I have had a look in the Design Manual for Roads and Bridges which is where I expected it to be, but I am afraid I could not find it. Its in 16 (sixteen) volumes.
However it will almost certainly need a more diligent search than I could manage, because I cannot believe it's not in there somewhere.

To give you some idea on the level of detail that's in there I am afraid my brain gave up after some of the following topics. The Wildflower Handbook in the Environmental section, the spec for hazardous cattle crossings controlled by traffic lights, and when I got to Fatigue limits for Bailey Bridges I realised I had got to my own fatigue limit!

The index for this "wonderful" tome and all the links to the various sections are at:

www.official-documents.co.uk/document/ha/dmrb/inde...m

Good luck, you will flaming well need it!

Had a similar problem with a Laguna. Turned out to be the bush at the top of the front suspension strut. Again the car passed an MOT in this state.
It was easy to see the problem when I finally went looking for it. Just open the bonnet and then shake the car from side to side. If you can see the top of the strut moving a lot then the bush has probably failed.