just an update,,its manual,,
also found the cause of rattle,,,the tensioner thing(like a little shock absorber)on the fan belt is gone,,causing the belt to be a bit slappy at low revs,,but when you spin it up it seems to tighten itself,,
so i have no lsd,,,thought as much,,,but i will go out and get stuck anyway,,,,
and i must price around and have a look on the tuning box thing,,see what best suits,,,
thanks for your replys,,,james,,
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I fitted a DieselPowerTuning DPT unit to an automatic one of these beasties and with a little fine tuning had it pulling much better at the bottom end. Improved the overall drive and economy as well.
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Watch that little tensioner thingy!!
Which is code for order one, download the Workshop Manual from Green Oval, so you know where to apply the long lever, and change the tensioner.
If you don't change it, the next failure mode is the belt falling off the pulleys, which stops the water pump, which means stopping straightaway, as in NOW, as soon as the charge light comes on, not a mile down the road where it's 'safe'. Otherwise you will be changing the head gasket, once your breakdown service gets you home.
BTW, Traction is surprisingly good, even without any axle difflocks, especially if you pick your tyres with care. It used to be that you could only get 'good' tyres for 16" wheels, but I understand good 18" tyres are available now.
Good in this context means tyres in a size to fit the 38A, that grip well on wet grass and light mud. In deep soft mud the over 2 tonne weight will always work against you.
If you haven't found it already, look at the www.Rangerovers.net site, and it's 38A forum.
Although American based there are a lot of Europeans on there, from both the UK and the mainland.
Good Luck
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I replaced two of these on my Omega due to a horrible rattle and the first (FEBI) part I replaced because it seemed to have gone the same way, but in the end I had to replaced the whole lot, arm and rollers, you can get them here...
www.eurocarparts.com/
£30ish
Part no. 326110090
On the Omega, I had no luck levering the tensioner, and found it easier to refit the belts by fitting the belt to all pulleys except the viscous fan pulley to which I fitted the belt as best as I could and then used the large 32/34mm? spanner to turn the fan pulley while pushing the belt over it and it would pop on, sometimes I used the starter motor to flick it on, I recall doing something with a ball of wet kitchen roll to hold things in place while I went to turn the key, but it's too many years ago to replace. Good luck with levering it though, the battery was in the way on the Omega.
Edited by Hamsafar on 02/09/2008 at 23:39
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thanks all,,,another update,,,,,,,,,i fitted the wee tension shock absorber thingy,,,very simple,,,,,
i undid the two bolts,,,completly removed the top brackcet,,,this allowed me to fit the new tensioner,,,put bottom bolt in just a couple or four threads,
then with a tyre lever ,eased it down untill the top bolt found its way home through the tensioner and the sleeve of the top bracket,tightened her up,and hey presto,,no more rattle at low revs,,,,
as for the tortoise power,,,im going to have a look on ebay for a tuning box,,,
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,watch this space,i will let you know,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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Ref. rattle from the belt tensioner. I took the hypodermic needle from an printer inkjet refill kit & filled it with grease, remove the tensioner, I then drilled the tensioner with a hole that just took the needle, squeezed in some grease, tape over the hole & ?silence?
Regards
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We had ours chipped, made a world of difference. Not an easy job though, the guy ended up physically removing the EEPROM chips to reprogram them. We had the automatic, it was simply an engine that performed best at high revs.
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