Hello everyone,
My dad's 1995 Golf CL estate (55kW diesel engine, code RB??) has recently been difficult to start.
When you turn the key, the starter turns the engine normally, but nothing happens for 3-10 seconds. When it's started, everything runs perfectly. It doesn't seem to matter whether the engine's cold or not, some times it's easier than others.
He took it to a garage last month, who checked the glow plugs (no faults found) and replaced "some tubes which can get blocked" - cost about £60. But sadly, this had no effect.
Any help gratefully received. I'd like to sort this for him before the starter motor gets ruined!
Cheers,
Nick.
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it might just be old age and down on a bit of puff
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it might just be old age and down on a bit of puff
Seriously? It's done about 120,000 miles now. The funny thing is that it's only gone like that a few weeks back - before that it started as well as it did when it was brand new.
Nick
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Thanks, Oldman, much appreciated, even if it's not exactly what I wanted to hear!
Is there anything else that it could be? I'm still not 100% convinced it's just old age as it's come on pretty suddenly over the course of a few weeks, rather than over months or years?
Cheers,
Nick.
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Nick
Can't get RB to fit a 55Kw; might the code be AAZ?
I'd be wondering about an air leak into the diesel filter or pipework somewhere that might be letting the fuel drain back while it's standing. Those pump-mounted immobilizers can be a frequent cause of non-starts too. Tried an different key?
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Hi Screwloose,
You're right, engine code is definitely AAZ as you thought - I'd mis-read the sticker in the service book.
Interesting about the immobilizer and key, but I think this car is slightly too early to have one. The key seems to be just metal and solid plastic with no room for any clever stuff (unlike the fatter key I've got for my 98 Polo).
As for the air leak, that's definitely something I'll have a look at. Any tips as to where I should start?
Cheers,
Nick.
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Nick
There were '95 Golfs about with immobilizers. From about 8/94-on many were built with electronic "ride-away inhibitors" fitted - in your case - to the end of the diesel pump under a black plastic cover. There's no obvious sign of the chip embedded in the key-head and many owners don't even know that they're there.
Only way to tell for sure is to drop the column shroud and see if there's a key-reader coil fitted round the steering-lock.
As for an air leak on a diesel; could be anywhere. Cracked/chafed pipes; tank joints; filter seals/drains; injection pump shaft seals; almost anything. Have a look for any signs of "wetness" or any other indications anywhere along the feed and return lines. They can be very hard to find. Sometimes you can hear a slight buzzing noise of the air sucking in; but only if the engine's off and it's very, very quiet.
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Screwloose,
Thanks again for the info. When I next see my dad, I'll have a look at the things you suggest - might be a while though. I'll let you know how it goes.
Nick.
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Just a wild guess, but does it have one of those little pumps on the fuel line for re-pressurising the fuel system when you run out of diesel?
Would giving that a couple of pumps before starting the engine identify whether there was an air leak into the fuel line?
[/end wild guess]
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By any chance, has the fuel filter been changed just before the problem began ?
Sometimes pattern filters may not seal at the return valve properly, and air may get sucked in.
Try parking it pointing downhill if possible, that can counter-act fuel syphoning back to the tank.
Re-reading your 1st post, I see it happens hot or cold. Does that mean the problem occurs if even stopped for just a few moments ?
If that's the case, I wouldn't think it was an air leak, as if it was that severe then I would expect engine running problems...
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the first thing to do is check the heater plugs have a 12volt feed,there is a fuse on the bulkhead for this....
then you need 10 seconds of pre heat on all four plugs.... if still a problem,
check for air leak's by fitting clear hose from the filter to the pump intake and monitor for air,assuming compression is good at about 250-300 psi and timing is correct,you should be ok,you might need to check vacuum "draw" check on the pump to see if it is drawing fuel ok from the tank.....
hope this helps diesel demon....
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When I change fuel filters,I usually remove the whole assy. and fit the filter cartridge off the vehicle;you can then see that all the seals/"O" rings are in place.
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Thanks for all the replies, everyone, very grateful!
I'll have a look when I next see my dad, and let you know what we find.
Cheers,
Nick.
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