Chrysler Voyager (1997 - 2001) - 2000 2.5 immobiliser problems

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Tue 15 Sep 2009 01:18
2000 2.5 immobiliser problems - bigbus
Hi all please help? vOYGER W PLATE 2000 {Correct year amended in subject header}

Got the immobiliser concerns like most on forum with my voyger happens about 4 times this year but getting worse and wife will not take kids out in it in fear of it not starting.
1/ Alarm light stops on flashing and beeping - all other clocks ect seem to be ok except once rev counter failed but ok now?
2/ RAC spent 2 hours at roadside no luck- towed her home 120 miles then started once rolled off truck ?
3/ Same thing again so then towed to auto sparky - but started next morning fine?
4/ Taken to crysler today and ecu had stored code of fault on transponder but they say transponder checked out ok and can not do anything untill code is active- got new key and fob on order as they suggested this may be the problem as we only have one set and key is worn(so need a spare anyway £200) they also say that should think about replacing the screem module if still not fixed with new key ?
5/ Once happened at fuel station but got it going after dissconecting battery for a good 2 hours ?
6/ Can anyone explain to me how to check the heater wires as discussed in forum ?how do I get the unit out ?from inside the car ?
Thanks in hope !


Edited by Dynamic Dave on 16/09/2009 at 00:25

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Tue 15 Sep 2009 20:13
20 2.5 immobiliser problems - MerlinTec
Hi
New key and fob is a must because if the the one fob you have ever goes down the alarm will need to be remove and set away for coding as the dealer will need a working fob to code in a new one.
SKIM module is not likely your fault when they go down you get a start still fault (it will run for 3 seconds then cut out) and I guess that is not what it is doing also the alarm set light wouldn't be on.
heater panel you remove 2 screws above the radio, 2 below behind a trim above the ash try you have to pop out. then pull off the heater panel and check the 21 pin plug (pin 21 black wire in the corner of the plug for melting)
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Tue 15 Sep 2009 21:42
20 2.5 immobiliser problems - bigbus
Hi thankyou very much I will try the heater control unit wires next, and yes the engine does cut out after about 3 seconds but the alarm set light flashes and beeps.If the black wire is faulty how easy is it to replace ?
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Tue 15 Sep 2009 22:13
20 2.5 immobiliser problems - MerlinTec
very easy you can get the repair kit if the plug is past it's best and can no longer hold the pins or I can send you just the pins with a 3 inch of wire on the end and you just cut the wire remove the old pin and solder in the new pin and hope the panel is ok.
What happens is this black wire is the earth and because this over heats the panel looses it's earth(ground) and so the voltage on the communication wire that all the modules communicate on goes high and the modules can no longer communicate i.e the skim module can no longer communicate with the engine to say you have put in the correct key so it doesn't allow you to start it.
Leave the panel unplugged if it melted and you be ok to use till you get it repaired.
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Tue 15 Sep 2009 22:24
20 2.5 immobiliser problems - bigbus
Thankyou for your help,I am going to get up early in morning and take a look at black wire before work! pity you dont live close by as you could of set up your own chrysler immobiliser repair shop!
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Wed 16 Sep 2009 09:46
20 2.5 immobiliser problems - bigbus
Hi and good morning, just removed heater panel and unfortunately for me the wiring is perfectly ok looks like new ! no evidence of any melting.Connections all seem ok aswell.
checked all three plugs the 21 pin plug has 20 wires 1 pin blanked off? but all seem fine.Voyager has started now for 7 days numerous times per day with no concerns but still need to find the fault, maybe the new key thats on order will help do you think ?
Please let me know if you have any other things to try ???
Thanks again.
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Wed 16 Sep 2009 18:44
20 2.5 immobiliser problems - MerlinTec
Hi
The only other known issue is the dash printed circuit board. (hence tapping the top of the dash to make it work)
I don't think it's a key issue or a SKIM module fault, sorry.
If it was me I would remove the dash and check the soldered joints.
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Wed 16 Sep 2009 20:40
20 2.5 immobiliser problems - bigbus
Hi thanks again for the advice, I was really hoping that the wire would of been melted as this would of been the fault and sounded easy to fix.When you say remove dash? do you mean the whole thing or just clocks ? not that confident about removing it but may have to give it a go, any idea where to start removing fixing screws ect? how long do you think the job would take ?is it someting i could complete early morning before work?is there a pirtciular wire or joint i should be looking for ? would a auto sparky be able to check for this fault?
Thanks again.


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Wed 16 Sep 2009 22:59
20 2.5 immobiliser problems - MerlinTec
Hi
No just the dials the soldered joints on the board come loose where the plug goes on. I have a board in stock so I can take pictures of where if you want to give it a go. or wait till next time then just hit the dash and that will tell you the fault is there.
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Wed 16 Sep 2009 23:16
20 2.5 immobiliser problems - bigbus
I would wait till the fault occcurs as you have stated then try hitting the dash but it would just be my luck for it to happen when wife and baby are in car alone ! how easy is it to get to the clocks then ? Im a bit handy as i used to work for a component supplier to Jaguar that manufactured magnesium information panels ect but the trim area looks so slick and clean cant see the way into the clocks? will the hitting the dash trick work in reverse to try and make the fault occur ?where are you based in the country ? and do you carry out repairs from home ?
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Thu 17 Sep 2009 20:07
20 2.5 immobiliser problems - MerlinTec
Hi
I can't do any work on a Chrysler away from work as if the boss found out I would be in trouble.

Dash panel removal.
open the door remove the screw holding that side panel on.
remove cowling around steering column
remove cover under the steering wheel
remove screws around the light switch and on both sides of the steering column and where the dials are. That trim should then come off (clip the other side of the vents can be tight but there is no screw there so just pull or use a trim stick to prise it)
you can then remove the screws that hold the cluster in. if you have small hands you can then get to the one plug on the back of the cluster and then with a wiggle you can remove the cluster. If you don't have small hands you will have to remove both A trims down both sides of the windscreen (clips if no crab handle so just pull or screw if you have) and then the upper panel (just clips again)
with the cluster out you undue the screw that hold the cardboard on then the screws that hold the circuit board in.
remove the circuit board turn it over and look at the soldered joint where the pins from the plug go in and look for cracks in the solder.
Repair or replace as you wish if you replace you will need the dealer to program it.
This is all from memory so hope I haven't missed anything.
Best of luck.
Simon
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Thu 17 Sep 2009 23:16
20 2.5 immobiliser problems - bigbus
Hi not having any luck with the spare fob either, been over to hatfields in york to get key and fob but key was ok and works fine but they said they could not program my new fob as the car would not go into programme mode? they will have to contact chrysler for advice ? and want to charge extra for any further work on reporgramming new fob, so just got spare key at present.Do i really need a spare fob? as I can open doors and start engine without any fobs ?anyway put new batteries in present fob and new key seems fine.Looks like im going to have to go with the dash removal idea but think i will wait till next week when i have a day of to spend on it as it sounds a little tricky,another point you maybe able to answer is . the alarm light flashes and red led flashes on dash area around clocks but I have never heard the alarm go off even when locked by the fob and then opened by the key? ive even locjked it with widow open with fob then reached in and started engine and still no alarm sounds? whats your thoughts?
Thankyou for all of the information and where is your bosses garage ? just in case i never seem to solve this one myself ???

Thanks brett.
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Fri 18 Sep 2009 01:05
20 2.5 immobiliser problems - MerlinTec
fob would be could as that turn off the alarm and need the alarm off for the BCM to enter programming mode. you probably only have the basic kit so no in internal sensor or siren. you shouldn't be able to start with the alarm on (starter cut out) May and scoffield can code the fobs if the dealer can't do it but you have to send the unit and fobs to then (think I posted the number in the other thread) Can't see why they couldn't get it in programming mode but Chrysler would only tell them to call may and scofield anyway. I am in exeter so a long way from york.
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Fri 18 Sep 2009 22:52
20 2.5 immobiliser problems - bigbus
Sorry did not understand the first line of your previuos meesage, I have one fob thats working fine that the wife has on key ring with the new key (touch wood traveled down to mums in leicester today and to date she says its fine)dont think im going to bother with new fob as yet , going to strip down dash on Monday just printed off your instructions ! (thankyou)they programmed new key ok but said that car would not go into programming mode to code new fob(strange as they managed to programme key?)i have old key and can open doors and start engine fine with no fob.Will keep eye on ebay as there was a fob on there last month for £10 that will need coding.wife today drove by layby where she broke down last month and has noticed that there is a very large mobile phone mast in the field near by with about 20 arieals on it ? do you think a spare fob is a must even as i can use key to gain entry / start ?

I will keep you informed of the dash job on monday ?
thanks Brett.
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Wed 23 Sep 2009 21:29
20 2.5 immobiliser problems - bigbus
HI simon had problems getting on this site ove the past few days but all seems ok now, Took out the circuit board as you discribed on Monday but all soldering looked ok , even taken the board to local soldering shop and they checked it for me and said they could not see a porblem.Thje only problem i came acroos was a lot of grease contamination on the pins of the plug on the back of the board so I cleaned them up with some acitone (plug as well) fitted it all back together and )touch wood) to date seems ok.I did notice that they petrol light / gauge was playing up a little and had a green crusie light next to fuel light iluminated on monday nigt even though its not got crusie control ??? might of been becuase all the dash lights seem to be brighter since i took out the dash ?do you have any other idaes?

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