I have an erratic idle problem on my driver, fuel economy is good, starts first time,every time. But the revs fluctuate between 500 and 800, often stalling when just warm.
Temp guage seems accurate, just had thermostat put in, which helped but its still erratic.
I've been told that these carbs are problematic.
Can anyone shed some light on my problem, i also have virtually no heat in the car, will just about demist the screen, if i turn the blower up-it makes loads of noise-like its spindle is bent and the only air i get in the car is cold.
Are these 2 things related?
Car ticks over at 900 rpm generally is this good
moved from Discussion and shouting edited from subject line
Edited by Pugugly on 02/02/2009 at 17:40
|
If it starts OK but is is difficult to keep running until it's fully warmed up it's probably the choke pull-down unit on the rear of the carb - quite a common problem on these engines.
The fan problem is probably unrelated but the fan can be accessed from the passenger side footwell. The bearings sometimes seize due to water ingress caused by leaves blocking the drain in the air intake - a black plastic 'funnel' above the fan unit in the engine compartment.
|
|
Thanks for that info, i shall see what i can do (limited mechanic) and go from there
|
|
|
|
|
Carbs need setting up properly. Known problems with waxstat. Issues with Mk2 Golf and heaters. Make sure air intake (under thin plastic sheet under bonnet passenger side) is clear of leaves and rubbish. Was a recall to put a valve into the feed pipe. Known problems with air locks. Ideally, replace with MK3 matrix and remove all the valve stuff. Heater blower bearings go. New unit about £35 from GSF and quite easy to change. Remove passenger parcel shelf, refer to a Haynes manual, but just twists off.
|
|
The Pierburgs are not the best of carbs. Quite a few get replaced with a Weber 32/34 - I have one in my Mk1 Golf. They sell SH for about £100.
|
I suggest you search in the Tecnical Forum, a wealth of suggestions, comment and help on Pierburg carbs.
p
|
I had similar issues with my Mk2. Stalling when ambient temp was low. On mine - there is a pipe which feeds air into the carb (about 75mm dia runs from near the airbox to near the carb), which on mine was a perforated pipe with a sponge cover. The sponge had perished, causing freezing cold air into the carb which caused it to freeze up. Fixed it by wrapping pipe in duct tape.
No hot air -Look at the pipes which run into the matrix from the bulkhead. There was a recall which retro fitted valves to the pipes into the matrix. On mine, the retro fitted valves failed which meant no hot water was getting to the matrix. I think with engine warm, both pipes should get hot. If they are both getting hot, another problem can be that the connection (basically a metal rod) beteen the hot/cold dial and a flap which lets in cold/warm air has come loose. From memory its located somewhere behind the centre console.
|
|
Wow I'm blown away by the amount of responses i've had today, this has to be the best forum on the net.
thanks for yours, i'm not too sure about changing from the original spec though
|
|
|
|
Hi, thanks for that am in the process of getting a weber for the car
|
|
|
|
|
|
thanks for moving my message, i have had several responses and will now look into sorting out my probs-much appreciated.
|
|
|
|
Check the condition of the short rubber brake servo hose where it connects to the inlet manifold. This hose can perish, split and leak air into the manifold which will also make your brake pedal feel heavy.
|
|
|
