Sticking turbo - Graham
I have a Sharan TD. Twice last year and once last weekend the turbo stopped working.It had an oil change between the incidents btw. This weekend I towed a caravan for the first time ever when it did it.

Can I assume that burnt carbon deposits are lodging in the bearings? Would an oil change and using flushing oil help? Should I go mad and change with a fully synthetic oil? or should I bite the bullet and change the turbo?
Any recommendations on turbo places and charges?

Is that enough questions for now?

Old thread reheated and remixed

Edited by Pugugly on 23/03/2009 at 10:57

Sticking Turbo - M.M
Graham,

What do you mean when you say the turbo stopped working? Did you lose power or have you reason to think the turbine actually stopped spinning?

David W
Sticking Turbo - Graham
It lost power. Acceleration was sluggish. Top speed reduced to 50, no noticable turbo whistle.

When it happened the first time I pulled over and switched off. Looked under the bonnet - nothing to see there of course. Assumed it was the turbo. Thought that if it was knackered anyway so might as well try something! Started car revved her to the red line a couple of times. When pulled away had no further problems for months.

Did the same this weekend. Pulled onto hard shoulder and revved her a bit and now OK.

To be honest I would have thought that if a bearing had failed it would never "come back". This lead me to think that it may be the oil carbonising and bits getting stuck in the bearings. Hence a flush and a change of oil. I may be jumping to the wrong conlusion of course.
Sticking Turbo - Toad, of Toad Hall.
"Started car revved her to the red line a couple of times."

Well if that wouldn't fix a mechanical problem I don't know what would! ;-)


--
Parp, Parp!
Sticking Turbo - M.M
Toad,

And why did I think of you when Graham posted that?

David
Sticking Turbo - Toad, of Toad Hall.
Strange I thought of me too! The Rover's thriving on Italian Tune up interspersed with road rallys. [1]

When Mr. Moorey saw the beast in October he diagnosed fatal big end wear. His advice was that if I really thrashed the pants off it the noise would quickly permanantly stop. I assume by that he meant that the big end would unwear itself and the car would run fine and last another 135,000 miles ;-)

It's got a 700 mile round trip to do this weekend. I'll be able to give it some more serous preventative medicine!

I'm gonna get a Cavalier when it dies. Nice SOHC and you can do the clutch in situ. Any other ideas?

[1] For values of thriving equal to smoking like Waynetta Slob, rattling badly at high revs [2], 90psi compression, rusting it's plugs solid in within 6 months, splitting plug insulation on the one plug I can get out.
[2] So that's all the time!


--
Parp, Parp!
Sticking Turbo - Ian Cook
Talking of the Italian tune up - I had a Cavalier SRi (H plate) as a company car and it developed an intermittent fault that was never cured to the day it was sold on.

The engine would go very sick and almost die, after the car had been running for about half an hour. Back and forth to the main agent, but for all the good they did I might just as well have given it to the Vicar to look at.

In sheer frustration I pushed the clutch out and floored the accelerator pedal until it hit the rev limiter for about 2 or 3 seconds. Hey presto! - it was cured (for that journey), until the next time it was used. I never bothered the Vauxhall garage again - it was either kill or cure.

One of our directors subsequently used it, whilst his car was in for accident repair, and he collared me to whinge about the awful car I had left. Once he got the hang of this variation of the Italian tune up he was as happy as Larry!

Ian Cook
Incuable Faults. - Toad, of Toad Hall.
My old man and a Mondeo quite a few years back.

It developed a misfire. He told Ford at service time, they put new HT leads on which worked, or rather disguised the problem for 500 miles.

'Cos each new mechanic could fix it with HT's at every service, my Dad's protestations that there must be an underlying problem were ignored and the root problem was never found. It went to auction after two years - I assume some poor soul's still living with it.

100,000 miles with a permanant misfire. What fun.


--
Parp, Parp!
Incuable Faults. - Graham
C'mon guys. Should I change the oil in desparation or the whole expensive turbo or something else?
Incuable Faults. - Dizzy {P}
Dead right, Graham. I was looking for answers to appear but this thread went right off-topic!

Bearing seizure on a turbo is so drastic that I would have thought it would be permanent rather than intermittent. I can't think of anything very sensible to suggest. I wondered about a build-up of carbon on the compressor vanes or a blockage in the turbo intake or exhaust system but I can't make out a good case for either of these. Does the breather feed into the air intake side of the turbo? This could cause carbonisation if too much oil is being carried over with the breather gases.

Not the same problem, but I know of a new Ford car (non-turbo petrol engine) which gave very similar symptoms some time back. The main dealer changed a whole heap of things to try and cure it but it was left to the customer's local back-street garage to discover that it was caused by a loose baffle in the silencer which, every so often, would move and block off the exhaust passage.
Sticking Turbo - Armitage Shanks{P}
Engine was warm and that's what they do on a diesel MOT for some stupid reason!
Sticking Turbo - Cyd
Turbo bearing failure is a drastic affair. You would know if it was the turbo and it would be dead alright. Most likely something else.

Had a similar problem once on a rally car. The wadding in the silencer collapsed causing a blockage. Sudden loss of power etc etc. could hardly drive the car - checked just about everything else before sussing the problem.

Also check for splits in the hoses, along with the unions. Check the vacuum hose to the wastegate. Check for oil gunge in the vacuum sensor pipes (there should be one leading to the electronics somewhere).

Also check the wastegate is working and not sticking open. With the engine thoroughly warm and your head under the bonnet raise the revs quickly and then snap the throttle shut. You should be able to see the wastegate shaft moving as it opens. Mark the shaft so you know its position closed and next time you get the problem look if its stuck open before you try clearing it.

If it is the turbo, buy a copy of Autotrader - lots of turbo specialists advertise here. If it is the wastegate this should be replacable separately.
Sticking Turbo - M.M
Graham,

I wouldn't change the turbo on a whim just because of power loss. Reasons for this could include fuel supply problems, injector problems, injector pump faults, air ingress.

And only then would I look at the wastegate first and perhaps turbo last.

Long shot, has it got a cat...part collapsed??

David W
Sticking Turbo - David Davies
Would suggest that you have the diesel system checked for codes via the diagnosis socket before replacing anything. To renew the turbo because you think it might be sticking could be an expensive mistake.The common cause for loss of power on these vehicles is an air mass meter problem or a choked exhaust,but there could be many other reasons for it.HTH
David Davies (Tune-Up Raglan)
Sticking Turbo - Graham
Thats better.

Many many thanks for your inputs. I'll stick my head under the bonnet and have a look at the suggested areas. It's one thing paying out for an expensive item, it's another to buy the wrong item!!!
Sticking Turbo - jc
To the person who mentioned flushing oil,STP "engine-clean" works a lot better.
Sticking Turbo - Ian Chandler
I guess it's a bit late to add my bit - however: I had exactly these same symptoms on an Audi A4 with a similar TDI engine, and also thought it was the turbo. However the trouble suddenly cleared up and I suspect it was the cat in the exhaust causing a blockage and then probably breaking up. Since the problem hasn't, touch wood, reappeared in about 10 months I have left well alone - though the cat or something else on the exhaust has an annoying rattle and some time, I suppose, I will have to buy some new exhaust bits from German & Swedish...
Sticking Turbo - David Lacey
I reckon the EGR solenoid valve is sticking open at some point, causing the loss of power.
Seen it before on a SEAT Alhambra TDi
MAF Sensors give plenty of trouble (even on Saabs and Rover 75's!) so a clean may help. Constant motorway driving in spray conditions causes a film to build up on the hot wire of the sensor, giving bum readings.

It could also be a wastgate problem but I wouldn't jump in at the deep end and replace the 'snail' just yet.

It might be best to pay (!!) for a professional diagnosis - it could save you many £££'s


MG-Rover Questions? Click on www.mg-rover.org
Sticking Turbo - Graham
Hi guys, just got back from a week roving around, and towing a caravan! To aid further diagnosis (if you're stiil awake and willing!) I have narrowed the problem down further:

Using fifth gear up hill (towing remember) and running out of puff, change down into fourth i.e. higher revs and under load, the power drops off immediatley. I can restore the power by turning off the ignition and turning back on again. Found that it could be restored by turning off whilst still travelling and thus preserving momentum.

Sticking Turbo - CM
I had a problem with loss of power on a TD once. The problem turned out to be a dodgy temperature sensor that was stuck on minus 1ºc and as a result there was an excessive supply of fuel to the engine resulting in flooding > loss of power.
Sticking Turbo - David Lacey
It could well be the good old MAF sensor......


MG-Rover Questions? Click on www.mg-rover.org
Sticking Turbo - Graham
Where/what is the Maf sensor?
Sticking Turbo - David Lacey
It's the Mass Air Flow sensor, usually situated between the air filter and the turbocharger air inlet. It has a wiring plug going to it.

These MAF's give quite a bit of trouble on both petrol and deisel engines from a variety of manufacturers

They seem to be sensitive from a build up of road dirt (!!) on the film - which can be washed away by pouring boiling water through the sensor and then rinsing with distilled water!

For some very comprehensive info on MAF Sensors (I know it's Toyota based..) try www.autoshop101.com/forms/h34.pdf


MG-Rover Questions? Click on www.mg-rover.org
Sticking Turbo - Flat in Fifth
Isn't this engine drive by wire?

how about a dodgy throttle potentiometer?

This could give a fault code which resets after the switching off/on reboot.
Sticking Turbo - Graham
Ah ha. I have just spoken to a very nice man from the AA. He said that there is a lot of problems with the throttle switches. Apparently there are two. One allows the exhaust gas to be dumped when throttling back!

Got to be cheaper to change than the turbo!
Sticking Turbo - David Lacey
In my experience, take any diagnosis by the AA with a pinch of salt - not wanting to put them down - I've had many patrols pull cars into our workshop saying 'Oh it's a dead ECU mate' when in fact it is an ignition amplifier fault.

I'm not aware of throttle 'switches' on the Sharan, the same EMS is used on my A4 TDi and that just has a large throttle potentiometer (made by Mr Bosch) connected to the throttle pedal.

Any dealer should be able to interrogate the EDC system and see what is/is not happening and provide an accurate diagnosis.

I know we could with the MG-Rover/Bosch diagnostic tool we have :)

"One allows the exhaust gas to be dumped when throttling back!"

That statement rings true of my EGR valve theory, earlier!



MG-Rover Questions? Click on www.mg-rover.org
Sticking Turbo - Graham
Thanks Dr Dave. I'm reading the MAF download now.
Sticking Turbo - David Lacey
Any further ahead Graham?


MG-Rover Questions? Click on www.mg-rover.org
Sticking Turbo - Ian21
I have an interest in this disscussion because my 95 Golf td turbo stopped working after the car stood idle for about 4 weeks but also just after an oil change, maybe both coincidence I dont know. The car still runs reasonably well but does not accelerate as well as it should. The turbo should come in at about 2200 rpm (who can tell me what makes that happen) and I recon you can hear it whin but there is no increase in power. From your discussion I wonder if its the waste gate stuck open. Does the turbo only start to spin as the engine speed builds up, hence the exhaust pressure increases.
Any comments would be appreciated,
cheers,
Ian.
Sticking Turbo - Graham
Sorry not to have replied earlier with the next thrilling episode but....

The local Skoda dealer claims to have an Octavia with a similar problem. They were going to replace a widget and see if it was cured. But the Octavia has never been back for the replacement. Since then "my" car was changed and now I use my wife's Sharan for regular long distance trips to work. The upshot of this is that the problem has dissapeared. It no longer gets lots of short around town trips, just 2hr plus motorway stuff. I wonder if there was something "clogged" and the Italian tune up has done it a lot of good. This last weekend we towed a caravan to the Lake District and back with no problems at all. In fact as far as I'm concerned it seems to be a perfect tow car.

Thanks for all your interest in the past.
Sticking Turbo - CM
I had a similar problem with a TD of a differnet make. It always ran fine on a motorway but around town or on slower A and B roads, the revs and power would build up very slowly.

Basically there was a sensor reading that the outside temperature was always at -1ºc and as a result too much diesel was being supplied to the engine. Therefore when engine was not being revved very highly their was a much higher chance of being flooded. This might explain why your Italian tune-up cleared the problem but then it wouldn't cure it.
Sticking Turbo - the conductor
air mass meter very common problem on vw/audi sdi and tdi engines
have seen loads replaced. but check the plastic dumpvalve for the turbo fitted in the intake trunking as these used to foul up and basically stop the engine making any boost.
Sticking Turbo - Mr Smegma
The turbo spins up as there is sufficient pressure from the exhaust to drive it.

If you can hear it spin, could be wastegate, more likely to be a lose hose, or leaking intercooler (if it has one). Check all of the air hoses, and you may find it's leaking somewhere.
Sticking Turbo - Spencer
I have an Escort TD whose turbo would whistle away quite happily after 2.2k revs but without the expected increase in power. With the use of this site I eventually tracked it down to what Ford part suplliers call "Turbo boost pipe". This goes from the fuel pump to the turbo unit (near air intake bit). This pipe is metal for the majority of its journey but there are two 90 degree bends in its route which are achieved with rubber pipes. (WHICH TO ME SEEMS DESIGNED SPECIFICALLY TO FAIL!!!) So carefull inspection with a torch showed up a crack right on the bend. Another tell tail sign is an oilly spray on the radiator/fan that seems to come from the pipe. To confirm this I wrapped the pipe up tightly with insulation tape and tried it out. BAMM! The car went like a rocket (well for a deisel and i had been putting up with this problem for 8 months). This only lasted a couple of days before it started unraveling. So I would advise to look for every pipe leaving the fuel pump and follow it as far as you can looking carefully for cracks.
P.S. the pipe costs £6 from ford part suppliers but you have to purchase the whole pipe kit not just the rubber parts that go. And to get on your nerves even more this rubber pipe is different diamiters at each end, one is spring clipped the other is crimped just to make sure you take it to the garage!!!!
Sticking Turbo - Autochondriac
I just bought a passat 1.9 td, more practical than my old merc coupe I thought, yet everytime I get into it something else seems to fail. Terrible probs with loss of power, now I reckon it could be a combo of a collapsed exhaust and a dodgy vacuum valve. My cam belt skipped 4 teeth which was interesting and I wonder if my sluggish?suffocated turbo was to blame. Luckily it only skipped on the injector pump so not fatal. The turbo stifle problem seems to get worse when I've been driving for a while, but not necessarily in connection with engine temp. Any ideas? Ps. does anyone know the whereabouts of the chump who designed the electric window motors? I'd like to chat with him!
Sticking Turbo - flybox99
thanks spencer like you have been driving for months with no power all the mechanics said it was the fuel pump needed overhauled your post about that pipe saved me a fortune on repair bills i changed the pipe as it had a tiny spit and the car runs like new again my car is a mondeo td 1.8
Sticking Turbo - cant_beat_an_audi
graham/dave

I have exactly the same problem - sharan 1.9tdi, now 103,000 miles but been doing this since around 30k. VW diagnostics tried, nothing showing. Turbo goes off (about once every 3/4 months, but sometimes twice in a few days) resets straight away when engine restarted. I have noticed in several incidents that coming off the power and going back on in a hurry seems to be the trigger, it rarely happens with a contant throttle. No VW dealer has ever been able to get to the bottom of it.

Don't mind paying for a diagnosis but who/where (telford area)
Other problem is you can't prove it's fixed, as it's so intermittent.

Dave can you explain what an EGR solenoid is, thanks

John
Sticking Turbo - Tristan
Hi everybody, just reading all your comments about sticky Turbos & I must say i find they rather amusing, been there, seen it before and solved the problem by just flushing out the oil system... the problem found was just carbon deposits on the phosfor-bronze bearings...
I strongly suggest to see to it as it is potentially dangerous, not to the engine but to yourself and passengers in the vehicule when the turbo becomes "unstuck" you get a rather vivid and undesired acceleration similar to a cossie beeing suddenly thrashed..


Best Regards & all the best

Tristan
Sticking Turbo - madf
Are you aware VW/Audi had a MAJOR problem with catalysts from 1995-1999? The stailess steel plates inside wee badly welded, come adrift and block the exhaust outflow.

My A4 TDI sysmptons were an exhaust rattle at idle. Cat replaced FOC under Audi warranty although 4 years old:-)

I suggest that such a strange intermittent fault MAY be due to that. Ask your garage to check if cat has been replaced if it falls under the age as described. If not, they should replace it: manufacturing fault and well known to Audi garages.
madf
Sticking Turbo - John Davis
John,
"Dave can you explain what an EGR solenoid is, thanks"
I hope that Dave does not take offence at me putting my limited knowledge forward but, the EGR solenoid is the device (electrical or vacuum) which allows some of the exhaust gases, at low throttle openings, to be re-circulated through the induction manifold, hence Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve/solenoid. The theory (although I have my doubts about the practice) is that it helps to keep the emissions figure within prescribed limits. From my experience, it seems that a lot of owners blank this off to avoid the inevitable build up of gunge in the inlet manifold.
What I should like to know, if someone would be so kind, is an explanation of the operation of the Wastgate on a turbo. I am new to Turbo's (MY Ford E93A certainly did not have one) and a concise run down on it's operation would, I am sure, help a lot of us.
Sticking Turbo - madf
How does a turbo work?

www.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm

Answers to most things there! Bookmark the site. Great
madf
Sticking Turbo - John Davis
Many thanks MADF. The site is excellent and, as advised, it is bookmarked for future study.
Sticking Turbo - tikki
Exactly the same problem on my Audi A2 1.4TDi.
Only 10 months old and 8500 miles, this weekend, accereating \'briskly\' through the gears away from a roundabout, hit around 4000 rpm in 3rd and had a sudden loss of power. Managed to maintain close to 70mph on the level but soon dropped to 40 on an incline. Stopping the engine and re-starting cured the problem but it recurred many times that day.
The EGR valve is mounted close to the passenger bulkhead on the A2 and ours has been getting very noisy over the last few weeks - sounds like a cow mooing every time the throttle is depressed!!!
Hoping the loss of power and bovine sounds are related because the mooing sound is a known fault on the A2 and I\'m hoping to get it fixed under warranty.

tikki
Sticking Turbo - Sharan TD - Cyd

I spent an illuminating half hour with an engineer and a technician from Garrett a couple of days ago. They were stripping down returned turbos to determine the causes of failure.

one of the turbos had suffered bearing failure. Once failed the bearing allows too much lateral movement of the shaft. this then allows the vanes of the compressor impellor to contact the cavity walls. Mild power loss and smoke from the exhaust would be tell-tales at this point. As this contact gets progressively worse the vanes on the impellor suffer fatigue failure and collapse. At this point the car will suffer severe power loss and "big smoke" from the exhaust. This process could take about 2 minutes or so. The engineer showed me an impellor that had suffered this failure  - I was surprised since I would have expected this type of failure to be a lot more dramatic.

Another problem he showed me was a compressor where there had been a steady oil leak into the compressor housing. There was a sticky black residue over all the walls and the impellor. As these deposits build up they take up the clearance between the impellor and the housing and eventually the tips of the impellor blades actually start to run in the residue. This causes drag on the impellor which slows it down. Provided the residue remains fairly fluid the drag may not be severe, but if the car is often stood for days at a time then the residue hardens and the drag becomes worse. Increased turbo lag and minor power loss occurs in mild cases but more severe cases result in considerable power loss and perhaps oil burning.

The engineer suggested that all turbos will allow small amounts of oil past the seals (which are not rubber seals but small piston rings effectively). Provided this leakage remains small and the oil is changed regularly so is generally clean, this is unlikely to do any harm. He suggested that it "couldn't do any harm" to clean the compressor occasionally, but could not suggest a product to use. With this in mind I decided to look at my turbo to see if it needed a clean. Vision into the turbo is limited on my car but it looked very clean, though I could feel a slight oil residue. Since I'd bought a can of carb cleaner and the car has done 126k I decided to give it a clean anyway. I filled the turbo with cleaner through the outlet and span the impellor by hand in the pool. I sprayed copiously into the outlet and dirty cleaner came flowing out the air inlet. To get rid of the fluid in the compressor I started the car with the turbo disconected and caught the dirty fluid in a rag. I repeated this a couple more times.
The result? I hadn't really expected it, but the car now picks up from idle better and responds better. It also seems to breathe easier at high revs. It's not a dramatic difference, but it is certainly noticeable.

Also worthy of note is that if there is a coating of oil on the inside of the intercooler, then this will cut the cooling efficiency of the cooler - so it's probably worth running some cleaner through the cooler too.
Sticking Turbo - Sharan TD - Jimbo68
I have a '98 TDi 110 BHP Passat, and have noticed that there is a power loass when accelerating. Thnaks to my mate who checked the "car by car breakdown" on this website, I may have the answer.

Quoting from this webaite:
Power loss on TDI 90s and 110s over 3,000rpm can be cured by replacing a thin hose that runs from the exhaust, near the turbo, to the ECU.

Does anyone know where this pipe is and can they describe it's location to me. Is it simply a matter or removing the old pipe and slipping on a new on (is there just air inside it?).

Thanks,
Jim
Lack of Turbo - Sharan 1.9TDi - DeanO!
I have a 98 r plate shaza and had problems with lack of power and the turbo cutting out.
Main dealer visit, no comment , but I would not bother there CR.P, instead a call to a local turbo diesel supplier gave me all the answers i needed,

Change the boost pressure valve (solonoid) & the MAS (mass airflow sensor) and hey pressto (minus £320) problem solved.

Also look out for spilt vacumm pipe at rear of brake servo!!

Cheers DeanO!
Lack of Turbo - Sharan 1.9TDi - Andy S'
Add me to the list! Drove to St Tropez with a newly seviced Seat Alhambra TDi - missing some turbo in the mid range and with little servo assist at low revs. Eventually lost all boost 30 miles into the return journey. French garage (Michel Mechanique - sounds like an ex-Genesis man!) immediately diagnosed Air Mass Meter and the same leaking brake servo pipe - £350 parts and labour. Very happy on the way home. Now advised by Camco 88 that if the AMM packs in it tells the ECU there's no air flow (hence no boost) - you can disconnect it and the ECU then determines it's own boost level (tried it and although there's less power it works better than nothing at all!)
Lack of Turbo - Sharan 1.9TDi - andrew taylor
seems like my recent problem of "lack of power" has been had by everyone already! but my sharan just needed a airmass meter part number 06A906461 and is now sorted and working great again. I found the best deal at lynx automotive, who sell new ones at the best price i could find there phone number is - 01949 836362!
if i had found this website before, it would have saved me £££'s on getting this vehicle sorted again!

thanks everyone
Sticking Turbo - Sharan TD - Civic8
You should always change oil on a turbo at least every six months.to leave it longer is a mistake.the bearings which don`t exist in a turbo as such it has a shaft into an oil filled cavern on both ends of shaft oil pressure from the pump seperates the shaft from housing.usual cause of turbo failure is bad oil.ie not changed for a long time you can normally find if turbo is beyond it`s life serious blue smoke from exhaust I don`t know how the new turbos are made but I don`t think any different
Sticking Turbo - Sharan TD - The Q
Well, I'd like to that you all for your various comments.

I have had a power loss on my VW Sharan 110bhp TDI ever since I bought it.

I took it to a main dealer - no joy. The "robots" there replaced an Air Mass Meter, and billed me without even doing a proper road test. It failed as I drove out of the forecourt.

I took it to a Turbo Specialist, who could diagnose the symptoms ( pressure rising to 2400 psi, then triggering limp home mode ) but didn't know how to sort it.

Finally, after years of putting up with it, or driving carefully to limit the pressure when the revs are around 2400, I took it to a different VW dealer, and explained the problem.

It took them two and a half hours, but they found the problem - a seized turbo wastegate actuator rod (sometimes known as a Turbo plunger rod).

What was happening was that the air pressure was building to around 1900 psi, at which point the wastegate would begin to open to bleed the excess pressure. The siezed rod prevented the wastegate opening, so pressure increased beyond safe limits, and the ECU switches the engine into limp home mode (effectively no turbo).

Once this rod was freed, the pressure doesn't build up beyond acceptable limits, and so the turbo doesn't cut out.

Cost? £40 for the specialist, and £75 for the fix. Worth every penny - wow, what a car now!.


Sticking Turbo - Sharan TD - DL
The trickiest to diagnose faults are often caused by the most simple of things....glad to hear you have it sussed.

I think your pressure readings are a little 'high'!

--
groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
Sticking Turbo - Sharan TD - Robble
The 110 bhp TDi has the Garrett VNT turbo that uses variable vanes to regulate the boost pressure instead of using a wastegate. The actuator rod can get stuck, but can be freed off. The preventative cure is to give the engine some load occasionally to give this actuator rod some exercise and stop it from sticking. This may be the cause of the problem Graham, IF you have a 110 bhp engine (not the 90 bhp that has a different turbo)
Doesn't sound like a MAF problem. You can usually determine those by disconnecting the wire that runs to the MAF. The ECU will then use a default air flow value and you should see improved performance. If this is the case, replace the MAF.

The other thing and this one happened to me is that the VNT/wastegate (depending on turbo type) regulator valve can leak, go open-circuit or get stuck. I just replaced mine a few weeks ago. Problem solved. Alternatively the vacuum/boost lines to the actuator can split or leak as can the hose to the inlet manifold pressure sensor to and within the ECU itself. All these problems are fairly common and are much talked about on TDI's. I have read stories of people who have had perfectly good turbos replaced because of one of these cheap to fix problems. www.tdiclub.com is a good source of information for this sort of stuff. Good luck

Rob
Sticking Turbo - Sharan TD - DL
Interesting......I observed this rod arrangement on my A4 TDi 110 while the engine was in bits last week. I can now see why (and how..) the linkage siezes. Otherwise, a simple setup.

--
groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
Sticking Turbo - Sharan TD - The Q
I have had the same problem re-occur on my 110bhp Sharan. The actuator rod was siezed, and it was freed off by the VW dealer, which is much better, but it is still failing.

I have been advised by the dealer that I need a new turbo fitted - is this right? Can the actuator rod be changed separately? Can someone show me a diagram of how to get to this rod to free it up /lube it myself?

Cheers,

Mark.
Sticking Turbo - Sharan TD - DL
Mark - it's pretty buried mate, I think you'll struggle to make any difference.
--
groups.msn.com/honestjohn/problems.msnw?Page=1 - Pictures say a thousand words.....
Sticking Turbo - Sharan TD - jeves
I have had two ford galaxy?s both high mileage 100,000 miles both had power loss problem. When it goes it has been on motorway and power only comes back when ignition has been turned off .Ford told me it was water in Maf . on first car (90Bhp) but at £300 did not have it changed as I was selling the car but now my new (115 Bhp) has the same fault not checked it out yet.
Sticking Turbo - Sharan TD - sharan man
Hi, i had the same problem with my sharan tdi 115 bhp, after reading this forum, i bought a bosch air flow meter from euro car parts and my car has got its power back they cost 69.00 pounds exchange , it only takes 10 minutes to replace, i hope this helps. just type in yahoo search euro car parts and then just click on there link, it will tell you the nearest branch
Sticking Turbo - Sharan TD - chasman
see my post passat turbo exploded.

the garage had it twice over six weeks returned it to me and then i was nearly wiped out on the motorway with no visibilty as most of the engine oil was on the windscreen!

they want £6000 for a new engine. help!
Sticking Turbo - Sharan TD - lapeyrouse
Hello, I found this thread while looking for another problem (aren't Sharans wonderful?) and it is a problem that I had a while back. It turned out to be the mass airflow sensor situated on the side of the air filter. If it fail the Sahran engine re-maps itself as a non-turbo engine of around 65HP. There are two makes and it is the Bosch that is more prone to failure.

All I have to do now is find the answer to my problem which is intermittent dropping to tick over.

Hope that helped,

Keith.

Sticking Turbo - Sharan TD - Screwloose
If it fail the
Sahran engine re-maps itself as a non-turbo engine of around 65HP


Err; no. It's highly unusual for the typical failure mode of a MAF to even flag a code; let alone cause the ECU to drop into LOS. [Limited-operation-strategy.]

Your intermittent dropping to tickover is much easier; check the brake pedal switch[es.] They can cut off a fly-by-wire throttle. If in doubt - change it/them. Fitting requires good instructions.
Sticking Turbo - Sharan TD - driverdel
had same problem with seat alhambra-power loss on long gradients that clears itself when engine restarted. also have lack of brake servo pressure at low revs so hoping to find leaking pipes which may be causing both problems. i'll keep you posted
Sticking Turbo - Sharan TD - TurboD
age is a good pointer to Turbo wear, the VW last around 150K if oil changed 'per the book' and you let the turbo cool before switching off.
when bearings worn the blades can move and cause 'noise', it is not a silent death in all cases, and would not cure itself, I know- been there.
Sticking Turbo - Sharan TD - driverdel
have found cause of problem!!!!!!!!---the small vacuum pipe which comes from the turbo charge pipe was damaged. changing it has cured the running problem. lot cheaper than a new turbo.
Sticking Turbo - Sharan TD - Roly93
As many other people have said, probably not the turbo, as they are actually quite reliable as basic servicing has been carried out. The reasons for loss of power can be varied, I think the Sharan has the VW PD engine in it. So the reasons for loss of power could be split turbo outlet hose, Maf sensor failing, sticking EGR valve or a stcking actuator on the variable nozzle mechanism of the turbo. The last thing can be easily checked by just pullin at the actuator (the vacuum operated levr on the side of the turbo) and checking that it is moving smoothly.
Sticking Turbo - Sharan TD - mebz
Loss of power - struggling to move in gears/ up hill - turbo does not seem to work - high fuel consumption - noisy engine.... These problems are linked with the MAF sensor.. more so with all tdi VAGS.

Bottom line is these MAF sensors are a load of crap even when replaced they tend to play up here and thr... usaully switchin the car on and off resets this. The dealers wont b able to pick up on this.

There is a way of checking the MAF sensor.. what i usaully do is disconnect it this dont cure the problem jst lets u knw if its working or not. if the car feels alittle bit better then u need to change the sensor.

Jst remember when ur turbo is totally screwed usaully u'll find alot of black smoke coming from the exhurst. With EGR and Cat and Intercooler probs ull usaully feel Lag or sticky acceleration but the turbo sud work fine.
Sticking Turbo - Sharan TD - Blacker
I have a vw transporter T5 1.9TDI and turbo was cutting out, then was working again when i switched engine off and on immediately. i cleaned the turbo and waste gate valve and the rod was moving easily when i blew into the hoses. turbo always worked fine immediately after switching off the engine so i couldnt understand why the turbo could be damaged. I asked volkswagen to read the ecu and do a diagnostics but hey said there is no pointas it was definately the variable vanes sticking and they seen it happen loads of times on golfs, then quoted me 1750euro plus vat to replace the turbo. i said i will replace it myself and then they wanted to run a diagnostics and found a broken wire from the check pressure meter. it is under the coolant in the T5. never had a problem since. touch wood.....
Sticking Turbo - Sharan TD - vwdel

I have a "T" reg vw sharan tdi 94000, and have lost the "Kick down" on it.I can get upto 70mph but lose power up gradiants.
I found a big hole in the large air hose to the air filter, could this be the problem?
Sticking turbo - macavity
www.turbotechnics.com/docs/index.htm
Limp Mode - Iqbal Sheryar

Hi i have a Seat Alahambra 1.9TDI which has been suffering the dreaded limp mode on start up it's fine when you drive it it's fine turbo kicks in and it's a pleasure to drive until i reach 50Mph or when the car is nice and warm the limp mode kicks and if i switch the ignition off anf back on again it's back to normal until i reach 50Mph again.,I have it on the VAGCOM which picked up 1 fault 17965 Charge Pressure Control Positive Deviation.

Things I have Changed

Both N75 valves

MAF sensor

Cleaned Out EGR valve which was full of crap.

Cleaned out the Turbo with Innotec tried moving Acutator Rod but it's stiff and can not move by hand,

New Fuel Filter

New MAP Sensor

Checked all hoses no leaks seen,

engine flush and full service done.

Anyone think off anything else i can check or change or possibly a clue of what it could be.I have been on numerous forums where people have or are suffering similar problems but no one has a logical reason behind it,Mechanics are baffled Seat who built the thing are Baffled and so am i.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Still the problems remains.

Edited by Iqbal Sheryar on 26/09/2010 at 11:43

Limp Mode - dieselnut

' Cleaned out the Turbo with Innotec tried moving Acutator Rod but it's stiff and can not move by hand, '

IMHO Innotec is just expensive snake oil. It took thousands of miles to accumulate soot in the void that the variable vane mechanism sits in, so why a short spray of this would clear it I cannot see.

The actuator rod should move by about 20mm between the engine being off & ticking over.

If you have the engine ticking over & remove the vacuum pipe from the turbo actuator you will see the rod move, measure the movement, will probably be much less than 20mm.

Some on here have managed to get movement back by forcing the rod but that may just be a temporary fix.

Otherwise take the turbo apart & clean out the actuating mechanism & be prepared to get dirty.

Here is a link to an explanation of how the turbo works & can be dismantled.

www.technologie-entwicklung.de/Gasturbines/VNT15-T...l

Limp Mode - Iqbal Sheryar

Hi just and update had a new Turbo fitted today and guess what that was the culprit all along,Drove back from the turbo specialist and it was a pleasure to drive.

I would just like to say a big thanks to all who advised.

 

Value my car