sorry for asking for help on my first post , but i really need the help.
i've got an F reg Astra Belmont 1.8 GLSi.
both of my brake lights do not come on at all when i press the brake pedal.
i've changed the bulbs , checked the fuses and replaced the brake pedal switch.
the 2 cables that come from the switch obviously go somewhere to pick up the electricity to power the lights , has anybody got any idea where or what it goes to.
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I know you said you've changed the brake pedal switch, but try removing the connector from the switch and shorting the two wires together to see if the brake lights come on at all.
I vaguely remember a previous post here where someone with a Cavalier had similar problems. I'll post the thread link if I can find it.
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if they do --- then what
and what if they dont
cheers for the quick reply
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if they do --- then what and what if they dont
Not sure if there's any adjustment in the positioning of the switch, but it *might* not be set in the right position to activate when the pedal is pressed.
No luck searching I'm afraid.
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i took the switch out and pressed it in and out a few times with my thumb but got nothing
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Has your Belmont got ABS? Can't recall if it was fitted on an F plate or not. If it has, then this thread *might* help. It's the only one I can find regarding no brake lights on a Cavalier.
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=15095&...e
If you haven't got ABS, then an expert will be along shortly - hopefully.
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no abs on mine but after reading that thread i'm wondering if soething else maybe causing it , but maybe not
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i took the switch out and pressed it in and out a few times with my thumb but got nothing
I don't think that is what Dynamic Dave meant. He wants you to connect the two connectors that attach to the brake switch with a small wire then turn the ignition on. If the lights still don't come on you know the switch is probably not at fault. Having replaced three brake switches over the years on a Cavalier of the same age I know that they are not of the greatest build quality.
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reason i said that was in reply to dave mentioning the positioning of the switch , so i took it out , as it was out the lights should have remained on.
will try the wire thing and see what happens.
i\'m assuming that if nothing happens when i do this will mean that there might be a break in the cable to wherever it goes to before it gets to the lights.
all my other lights work.
my back lights are on the same double filament bulb so i know its not the bulb , i also tried a single filament bulb but that didnt work either so that eliminates the bulbs.
i looked in the haynes manual for a solution but might as well have been reading it in the dark as most of the electrical system in the haynes manual makes no sense to me.
why do they make a manual for the normal bloke in the street and then make it too hard to understand in some cases (but thats another thread entirely)
cheers
sarge
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reason i said that was in reply to dave mentioning the positioning of the switch , so i took it out , as it was out the lights should have remained on.
Only if the switch is actually working. It might be a new one, but it could also be a duff one. By shorting the wires will confirm whether or not the switch is actually doing the job it's meant to be doing.
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i'll have a go at it tomorrow dave and report back with the results
cheers
sarge
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Go to Argos and get a cheap multimeter (approx £12).
Check to see if you're getting 12v at the switch. If you get 12v at the switch, press the switch and make sure that you get 12v out. If you get 12v out, check for 12v at the bulb. If you get 12v at the bulb but it still doesn't light then you've got an open earth connection, if not the wiring between switch and bulb is broken.
If there is no 12v at the switch, check for 12v at the live side of the fuse. If you get 12v there, it's a problem between the fuse box and switch. If not, it's either the supply to the fuse box or the box/connections.
The general knack to finding the cause of electrical problems is to start in the middle and work your way towards the problem by halving the ammount of circuit you have to check each time (at convenient points).
Always measure between your testpoint and a known good earth, usually the bodywork. Never rely on wired earth connections.
For 12v circuits you can also use a low wattage auto bulb to check for voltage.
Kevin...
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right , i used a bit of wire as suggested but still nothing so i managed to find the main relay where all the wires seem to go to and checked everything there , wiggled the wires about a bit and made sure all the plugs were in properly and guess what , the brake lights came on.
so it looks like i might have a bad connection somewhere round the main relay , but at least it'll get through the MOT on monday , and then i can tackle the connection problem.
Kevin - i've got a multimeter somewhere that i got from maplin when they were doing them on special offer a couple of months ago for £2.50 , never thought of using it for this problem , but then that probably why i'm not an electrician lol
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also thanks to everybody who replied.
cheers
sarge
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also thanks to everybody who replied.
And thanks for coming back to let us know the fault has been resolved. Many people don't.
DD.
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