Oil filters - Malcolm
Just about to set to changing the oil and filter on my wifes car after getting the engine nice and hot when I notice that the filter I have just bought is some 35mm longer than other filters I have used including the makers. Question:
Although the thread and oil seal look the same as the others should I risk fitting it or wait until I have checked it out, I will not be until next weekend when I will again be able to do the oil chang. Also why is there so many different filters,surely after all it is only to filter the oil, apart from bigger engines needing bigger filters what is the difference?. In case someone is sitting out there with a Crossland filter parts list I have been given a 2071 filter for a Honda Civic 1.5 lsi 1992.
Regards, Malcolm .
Re: Oil filters - John Davis
Malcolm. I might be completely wrong but, I understand that some filters are fitted with by- pass valves and some are not. I am not sure of my ground here but, with an extra 35 mm on the length of the body it might have a component which is not needed on your engine. On the other hand, it might be
entirely suitable and, provided the extra length does not foul anything else on the engine, can be fitted. Best to wait for a comment from one of experts.
Re: Oil filters and bypass valves - John Slaughter
The NRV is not the only component that may differ. Some filters contain the 'blocked oil filter' bypass valve, rather than having this built into the pump. Some Ford applications come to mind (as I recall CVH units have a bypass in the filter, whereas HCS units have it in the pump). Both filter types are visually similar (different part numbers of course) and have similar threads and dimensions so happily fit either engine.

Now, given that all you guys change the oil regularly it won't be a problem, but it would pay to be sure that if your car needs a filter with a bypass valve, then make sure that's what you are given. The other option is that you are given the wrong filter and your engine end up with two bypass valves.


Re: Oil filters - Simon
If the thread and the seal are the same as the other one then I can see no problem with fitting the filter. You do often find that filters made by different manufacturers are different shapes and sizes but as long as the fitting is the same then don't worry.
Re: Oil filters - Andrew Tarr
Assuming your need matches the ones listed on the carton/catalogue, you should be OK, with the return-valve proviso mentioned by HJ. However I recall fitting a 'suitable' filter a few years ago, only for it to be blown off the thread by oil pressure on starting the engine. Threads at the tolerance limits?
Re: Oil filters - Phil P
HJ noted recently that some filters have a non-return valve in order to keep some oil in the top of the engine. If a filter without the valve is fitted this could lead to more rapid wear due to the time required for oil to be pumped up from the sump.

Re: Oil filters - honest john
If this filter doesn't have a non-return valve and the engine needs one, then don't use it or you will suffer lack of lubrication of the valve gear on start-up.

Re: Oil filters - peter todd
providing that you have been given the correct filter for the application, it should be ok as crossland make quite a lot of filtration equipment for the OE market, some makes can be slightly different size wise if they have rationlised their stock by using a similar spec filter (which in your case may be just more filtering media surface area than the one you have on now).

waiting a week won't hurt while you check it out
Re: Oil filters - Guy Lacey
Length isn't everything........
Re: Oil filters - Dan Jeffery
Diameter on the the other hand.....
Re: Oil filters - Cliff Pope
Does anybody else ever bother filling the oil filter before screwing it on, to avoid running the engine for several seconds on no oil while the pressure builds up?

It has always seemed commonsense to me.

Re: Oil filters - John Slaughter
Re: Oil filters - David W
Filling up is a good practice in theory, but only on an older filter with no non-return valve and one that goes on the "right" way up.

Access to some filter positions is such a pig, and others are at angles that would allow the oil to run out, such that it is only worth it for the dedicated owner.

Regarding filter sizes/types. Most filters fit the same size boss/sealing ring but it doesn't mean they are the same. Some cars of the same model/year have two different thread types and you need to know. A filter firing off a week after service is to be avoided.

As long as the fittment is correct by the book don't worry about the look unless it is obviously wrong, then double check.

I'm at a bit of a loss to understand the huge variation in filter sizes. A Renault Megane 1.6 has a tiny flat filter whereas the 2.2 Laguna diesel has one as big as a bucket. The Nissan Micra 1.3 has one like a cotton reel.

OK so these engines are different but , broadly speaking, the principle of filtration must be the same.

Re: Oil filters - John Slaughter

Yes, certain applications, due to filter orientation, make this difficult. However, even with a horizontal filter, I've found you can at least put in some oil and by keeping it moving, prevent oil falling out - depending on access of course.

Where the filter has a rubber disc valve below the holes in the top it can still be filled, via the centre hole, and the valve helps keeps the oil in place. I always try to achieve at least a partial fill - I don't like sitting there with the engine running and the oil light looking at you!


Re: Oil filters - Stuart B
Historically my practice here has been to put some oil in the filter and then get the oil pressure light to extinguish by cranking whilst the engine is prevented from firing by some means.
Of course with modern engines and catalysts this technique is more and more problematical, even downright impossible/inadvisable.
Re: Oil filters - Cliff Pope
Another thing I always wonder about, on an engine that doesn't have a non-return valve, is what happens when you drain the oil.Does all the dirty oil and muck in the filter syphon back into the sump, and perhaps remain there ready to contaminate the new oil?
Should one remove the old filter first, and then drain the sump?

Re: Oil filters - Peter Todd
Talking about oil filters, apart from OE has anyone any recommendations, which ones have built in NRV's etc. Fram, Crossland, Motaquip?
Re: Oil filters - David W

It is my understanding all the major filter suppliers of repute will have the spec correct for the car, including NRV if needed.

The makes you mention plus Coopers, Unipart, Halfords and many more are fine.

I've never bought a filter that has been without the correct valve, but I wouldn't buy from a boot sale, market or back street shop selling a brand I'd never heard of.

Re: Oil filters (it was the right one) - Malcolm
Thanks all for the interestimg forum on oil filters, The supplier cross-referenced it with other makes and did offer me a shorter one, but I have decided to use the longer type as it will be easier to remove next time round.
Regards Malcolm.
Re: Oil filters and bypass valves - peter todd
filling up filters is ok, but what if you've just poured crap into the outlet side of the filter & then it gets pumped straight round!

Caterpillar a few years ago had problems with the injectors on 6cyl engines fitted to their rubber tracked crawlers, problems were quickly reduced by modifying the fuel filter casting so that the primary filter hung down & secondary filter is upside down (early ones were both hanger-downers), this apparently reduced cases of fuel contamination at a stroke because you couldn't pre fill the secondary filter any more to save time hand priming!

Value my car