During my driving instruction and test I was always taught to change straight from 4th to 2nd when approaching a junction etc. In fact I was given a minor for not doing it at one junction during my test!
Perhaps that's not the case anymore now that we all drive in third around town..........
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I usually do this at junctions on nsl roads. Approach in 5th, brake, down to 2nd, or even 1st if it's a tight turn. I might sometimes use it for up changes on down-hill sections.
I seem to recall it being called a cross-gate change back in the old days?
It can be a bit hairy on a bike. Change down to too low a gear and drop the clutch and the back wheel locks up. Fun only if you're expecting it.
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GOING DOWN
Going down through the gears one by one when approaching a junction is nowadays (my test was in 1990) frowned upon (I'm sure this is still the case, but perhaps somebody younger would confirm...). I guess this is because it wears the clutch. People rather older than I am were taught to change down 4 -3 -2 -1 when approaching a junction. I guess this is because brakes were not so effective historically. The balance between unnecesary wear on the clutch (which can be a pig to replace - engine out very often) and the efficacy of your breaks gives the modern approach.
CHANGING UP
There is no doubt you get the smoothest ride (providing you're competent with your left foot) by going up through all the gears. It also helps economise as you use the economical part of each gear. Alternatively it means that you can use each gear at revs giving its maximum torque.
But, if you accelerate from lights such that you are still in 3rd when you reach 40 (and there's a 40 limit that stops you from zoooooming on), then there is no benefit to anybody (except your clutch manufacturer who will get to put a new one on sooner) from going into 4th at 40 and then 5th still at 40.
CONCLUSION
You should always choose your gear for what you're about to do, not what you've just done. (i.e. if you're about to use 2nd to go round a corner having been whizzing along at 95, then change into 2nd, don't go through 4th & 3rd as well. Similarly changing up as illustrated above.) Therefore if block changing (i.e. going more than 1 gear at a time) is what's required to achieve this, then do it!
Anybody agree? Anybody have different views for the reason why fashion has changed? It's always intrigued me!
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Yes its a changing fashion. During my initial driving lessons and test (1972 i think) i was told to change down 4,3,2,1 and would fail test if i didnt. Instructor burbled on about "its because if the brakes fail" (walob!)
15 years later, all the advanced courses i have had have all said change down to the next gear you will need. If that means 5-3 or 4-2 etc then so be it.
On changing up all advanced driving instructors have said when accelerating "smartly" use the rev range and if missing an intermediate up gear will still drop u into the useable rev range then do so.
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A wee bit long, but an article by John Lyon of the High Performance Course - John has probably forgotten more than Ripley ever knew...
"What I like best about driving," said Pegg, accelerating his Morgan out of a bend " is gear changing." His foot dipped to the floorboards as he changed up, the exhaust note rose to a scream. He swept round two right handers, then flashed down through the gears and jerked to a stop in front of a level crossing gate. He fished for a cigarette.
Pegg, who would only drive his beloved Morgan when taking the High Performance Course with me, said: "Well John, what do you think?"
"You get the best from your car Pegg, and your gear changing and handling are fantastic, but you drive too fast for other people yet your progres isn't all that rapid. There's no method to your driving; you'll wear yourself and your car out changing gear as often as that!"
Driving is ego and life to Pegg, and I could see I was treading on thin ice to criticise: so I explained quickly.
"The safest approach is to be in the correct position, at the right speed and in the proper gear, with signals fitted in as you need them. So the sequence is mirror, signal, position, speed, gear and warning of approach. The minimum time to react to a signal is at least four seconds - so wait for evidence of reaction, then, if safe, plan your path ahead. Estimate the correct speed-and remember, brakes before gears. If there's only a short distance to slow down in, get your priorities right. Keep both hands steady on the wheel, brake once to the safe speed, then change gear.
>"You can slow down with the help of the gearbox, but only use one gear, and don't brake afterwards. It suggests that you misjudged your speed. You use the accelerator to match engine, gear and road speed beautifully when changing down, but don't brake, change, brake, change... change gear when you've slowed to a safe speed. If you stop, then select first.
"At least you don't push the gear-lever through the synchromesh while still braking, like the novice does, and lift the clutch against an idling engine, causing clutch drag wear. Awful! Usually they are so thoughtless as to do it twice for one hazard. Think of 10 unnecessary gear changes for one mile of motoring, then multiply by 10,000."
"I agree, but what about heel and toeing." asked Pegg.
"I couldn't race quickly on a circuit without heel and toeing, but I don't do it down the High Street! Try not to cut off speed so late that you need to do it all the time.
"After slowing and changing down, consider one warning if you have to, giving time for others to react. The timing comes from where, say, the horn is sounded; if the warning is late so is the subsequent gear change, braking, posiltioning, signal and your look in the mirror."
Pegg laughed, took the point stubbed out his fag, and drove through the level crossing with a very.....
Matt35
PS - other things by John - go to ABD+links+High Perfomance Club.
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Oh, dear, it depresses me.
What a lot of verbiage. Whatever I do (and I've done most of the things mentioned and a few more) it's all over and done long before it could be put into words - which would be far too late.
You got it or you ain't...........?
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My IAM instructor advocated block changing on the way down but told me off for going from 4th to 6th when I had already reached my intended cruising speed in 4th.
I didn't see why that was a problem - what's the point of an intermediate change into 5th just for the sake of it?
I remember years ago Jackie Stewart was asked why he didn't use the gears to slow down, instead relying on his brakes. In response, he just pointed out the relative costs of brake pads and gearboxes!
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Algernon,
Those of us not blessed with natural talent have to do a bit of work...
"As the standard is far higher than that taken by learner drivers, a person is unlikely to achieve the higher grades without assistance. These tough standards ensure that the person who gains a Gold award has succeeded in gaining the highest award open to a civilian driver in the UK, and probably in the world. One of the strengths of the RoADA is its requirement that all members must take a retest every three years. This is unique in civilian driving. If the retest is not taken, the person ceases to be a member. These regular retests are free of charge"
Got second Gold pass on Saturday - so can put the books away for a while.
Matt35.
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My instructor in 1966 when I was 17 taught beginners to go down through the gears 4-3-2-1, but then with experience to use 4-2 etc as appropriate. I don't remember its being called block-changing.
Towards the end of my course of 17 lessons (One per year of age was the rule of thumb) he taught me to do it into 1st too. That took real skill to get into 1st at 20mph with no syncromesh then.
Block-changing going up seems obvious too to me. My wife, taught 10 years later, still starts in 1st even downhill and then goes 1-2-3-4-5. I would start in 2nd and then go straight into whatever gear seemed appropriate - it might be 3rd or 4th.
Of course with an overdrive that works on 3rd and 4th there are even more possibilities.
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I was taught (four years ago) to brake with the brakes, and only change down when necessary ie. At 60 in 5th slowing for an A road junction brake to 30ish, change to 2nd, then round corner.
What i got told off for all the time was coasting (as in clutch pedal down) from about 40mph until the correct speed to lift the clutch in second, a habit i have since taken up again as i am yet to hear a valid argument against it. Would IAM frown upon this, as i am about to start my training in a couple of weeks?
However recently in the snow, i changed down sequentially to use engine braking to minimise problems if braking became a bit iffy. I also do this when braking downhill, as again, you are relying on your brakes more than usual.
Regarding block-changing up, this wasn't an issue whilst learning, so i don't have my instructors take on it, but i often accelerate hard away from a 'rolling' junction in second and then skip into fourth at 30 or 40 as the limit dictates. I don't see the point of an extra change for no reason, and the car is flexible enough to do it whilst retaining torque if the need should arise.
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Hawesy,
" Would IAM frown upon this, as i am about to start my training in a couple of weeks?"
Yes.
You have got the rest of it just about right - just this bit to sort out.
Good Luck
Matt35.
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Thanks for that Matt35,
But have you or anyone else got a reason WHY you shouldn't do that? I simply don't understand what disadvantage or hazard it causes.
In day-to-day driving, the loss of engine braking isn't (or shouldn't) be a problem assuming that the distance you are braking from is adequate.
If an emergancy was to occur, simply lift your foot to regain the additional engine braking.
.....Or so it seems to me?
Maybe this needs its own thread!
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Hawesy,
'Right speed, right gear, right position' is one of the basics of the System.
Instead of 'engine braking, think 'accelerator control' which you don't have while coasting?
Some of what you will learn will seem a bit pedantic at first but is all part of the System (I sound like that guy on Neighbours doing Life Mechanics!) - to give you the maximum time to react to what is going on around you.
A tip before you start - maybe save you and your Observer a Sunday morning or two - as of your next drive, name out loud every road sign you see, including paint on the roads, to get your eyes up a bit and maybe start your commentary ?
Matt35.
PS - if this makes you feel like a plonker, look around you.
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A friend's daughter is learning to drive now, and is being taught to block change on the way down thru the box, so it seems to be official policy here in N.Ireland.
She's also being taught something called 'peep and creep' at Give Way junctions, which I'm not too sure about the meaning of.
Perhaps it is if your view is blocked by parked vehicles?
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Thanks Matt, i must admit it does sound pedantic at the moment, but i'll give it a chance to grow on me anyway, maybe with practice and training i'll see the error of my ways!
In keeping with the Life Mechanics theme:
"It'll be a case of reading the fault codes, re-programming my ECU, then taking it slow until it becomes as simple as block changing"
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