September 2009

carnut1980

hi all, i have a 03 laguna dci with the tunerlist cd player. After entering the code the error msg shows up on dash. it does the same in my brothers 2001 clio 1.2. The error msg always shows up whenever i switch the stereo on now! I have an aftermarket cd player which works in brothers car but not mine! Am i meant to press button 5 ater entering code, to actually 'enter it'? help!
stereo model is: RENRDW100-10, i dont have the owners manual at present, but does anyone know what fuse is for the car stereo loom (the one attached to cars dash) as i get a '0' reading on all wires with a multimeter, even when ignition is switched on! I really need my music!! cheers
carnut1980 Read more

hiswife

Anyone know how to remove service light/spanner? Thanks Read more

hiswife

Wonderfull, thanks. the wife.

azc-uk

Hi All,

Unfortunately someone rear-ended my 7 month old A3 S-line in June of this year. They hit me at about 20mph I would say. I was able to drive the car to the Audi dealer, and the next thing I knew, it was at the "approved" Audi repairer for the region.

Now this Audi repairer is allegedly one of only 20 garages that is approved to repair an R8, so they should be able to get it right. Unfortunately not.

I picked the car up 4 weeks ago (my 4th attempt to collect the car in 4 days as there were various bits wrong it it), and found various things wrong with it, from the bootlid not fitting correctly, through to trim not put back properly, through to dents in my leather seats, and worst of all, swirl marks all over the black paint from being washed with something that had grit in it. Even the satnav screen and the clocks were covered in scratches. Where the car had been machine polished, the polish has not been broken down fully and the car is now covered in holograms.

I didn't sign anything to say I was happy with the repair, but I wasn't asked to either. I was told to drive the car around for a week or two and come back to them with any outstanding issues.

They had the car back two weeks later along with a 13 point list, and it was collected again yesterday. Pretty much most of the things on the list have been ignored.

Where the bootlid meets the light clusters, the bootlid is proud on one side, but worse than that, where the back end of the car was "spread" outwards, the gaps between the bootlid and the sides is much wider than it should be! So basically it hasn't been closed up properly. So where they have replaced the rear cross-member, it has now been re-welded in the incorrect position.

I was told by the repairer that I shouldn't expect the bootlid to line up properly - not even on a new car! And as for the scratches on the clocks, well it wasn't them of course! Even though they did valet the car afterwards.

With that in mind, I went to the Audi dealer that the car came from, and they were very helpful. The service manager agreed with me that the car is not up to the correct standard and that I should write to them and CC Audi H/O exaplining this. I called Audi Customer Services last night and am awaiting a callback from a case manager there.

Now me being the pessimist, and also extremely fastidious about the vehicle in every way (I won't even park it in a car park if there are too many other cars around), I am quite sure this isn't going to be resolved to my satisfaction. As far as I am concerned, the car should come back as it was before the accident. Which clearly it is not.

My possible only trump card is that the car is on PCP. I am so sick and tired of this (this has been going on for 3 months now), and quite frankly, as a self employed consultant, I am losing more money every time I waste time on this.

Fortunately I did not sell my old faithful VW Passat. I am inclined to go back to driving the passat and telling them that I am stopping the direct debit and telling Audi UK to come and take back the car?

I would argue that through no fault of my own, the car is no longer of the originally described quality when I purchased it, and this goes far beyond any wear and tear that it would have amassed in the 7 months I have been driving it?

Can anyone offer any advice as to how this would hold up? I don't want to knacker my credit rating by "defaulting" on payments, but I don't see why i should have been paying the last three months payments for hire cars that aren't of equivalent spec, nor paying for a substandard car going forwards?

Thanks in advance for any advice. Read more

azc-uk

OK - so I have had an engineer look at the car today with the original repairer and myself. I pointed out the multitude of things that are wrong with the car and all the repairer could do is hang his head in shame. The assessor was not impressed.

I didn't even tell you guys the worst part of it. On Saturday we got into the car to go to a wedding, and shortly after pulling away I had to brake sharply. My girlfriend's seatbelt DID NOT LOCK and she came out of the seat.

I took the car into the Audi dealer straight away and they lent me a car for the day. I was told when I picked the car up that several clips holding the trim on where broken, and that the seatbelt assembly had not been put together properly. It was lucky that I was braking at low speed and not in a high speed emergency, or she would have gone through the windscreen.

Regarding the scratches inside the car and the dents in the leather, the original repairer just said "that wasn't us and you can't prove it was", which is a terrible attitude. They said that they wanted the car back to rectify the faults. I said that there was no way they were having it back because I could not be sure that they would not introduce further problems, and then say that they were not at fault. Besides, if they cannot assemble something as fundamental as a seatbelt correctly, there is no hope of me driving the car afterwards and feeling safe in the car.

I said that they had the opportunity to sort the car out when I brought the car in two weeks ago and they just stonewalled me, so the assessor and I were in agreement that I should take the car to the other VAG approved bodyshop in the area for a quote, and that the original garage should pay for the repair. I took the car over to the other bodyshop and they told me that to close up the gap in the boot would have been easy if it was done when the bent rear crossmember had been cut out. Now that it is all reassembled, it would be nigh-on impossible to do so without cutting it out and rewelding it again. They are only prepared to do a quote to repair it with an assessor present as they feel it would be a waste of time otherwise.

No surprise here, but the original garage refuses to pay to let another garage do the work.

The local Audi garage (where the car came from) are on my side. If nothing else they want to sell me a new car, but they can't believe that they sent a customer's car there and it came back in such a poor state of repair.

The plot thickens....

Roly93

Is it just me or are tyres rocketing in price at the moment ?

I was looking at 2 tyres for my A4 at some of the online retailers, which were £95 each back in May then they were £98 each and now they are £107 each.
Where are those so-called credit crunch bargains !? Read more

NARU

More likely the drop in the pound affecting the price of new deliveries. This will be a recurring theme if the pound crashes (if it happens, probably after the next election)

drbe

Just 14 £60 fixed penalty notices were issued in 2008 with six issued so far this year - according to BBC London on the teletex pages.

The chances of getting caught are so remote that minicab company Addison Lee have instructed its drivers to use the bus lane.

I have never seen a bus using the bus lane sit was launched by lovable, Deputy Prime Minister John Prescott in 1999. Read more

Old Navy

Can ministerial drivers put their fines on their passengers expenses? :-)

Brian Tryzers

My long-serving Volvo S60 D5 manual will reach 100,000 miles some time this autumn. Never having run a car anything like this long before, I'm starting to wonder when I should expect predictable bits to wear out.

By this I mean especially clutch, brakes and exhaust. The car's been through a few tyres, wiper blades and bulbs, and has had some model-specific maintenance items - cambelt and some bushes - but what I'm thinking of is what's a good service lifespan for a clutch or an exhaust?

I'm using my particular car as an example but the question could apply to anything. Mine has done most of its miles in top gear and at motorway speed, which is gentle on these components. I know I'll have to replace the brake pads before much longer, but what about the clutch and exhaust? Is it possible to make these last indefinitely? Read more

OldSock

My '99 S80 is still going strong on its original exhaust at 158,000 miles, so hopefully yours has plenty of life in it yet :-)

mikee21

Hello,
Recently i have been having problems with the lights on the dash board of my Zafira, it is a rather funny situation because other lights seem to be working fine (e.g. the gear box lights and surounding the sterio). My thinking was that is was to do with the battery, soo i replaced it with a new one and yet the lights are still rather dull on the display. I really have no idea to the solution and was wondering if it was a loose wire? Any help on this matter would be very much appreciated.

Thank you! Read more

PeterRed

I'm not sure which lights you mean from your description but if a fascia bulb has blown, take a look at this :

www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=61798&...f

Having re-read your description and seeing the word "dull", have you tried the rheostat control - the sliding switch that changes the intensity of the fascia bulbs?

Gregory II

Hi

I live in Brighton and I was thinking of doing a bodywork course. Can anyone point me in the right direction where I can complete this type of training, somewhere professional etc.

I can study in the Brighton and surrounding area or even London

Thanks

{Its not compulsory to select make/model to post in discussion. A category selection is generally acceptable UNLESS you specifically want to ask a question about a make/model} Read more

Gregory II

Has anyone experience in this field or completed any training in this. Can someone recommend some tools for the job/ books I might be able to use in order to attain this skill?

Thanks

Gregory II

Hi

Where can I get a good air gun and welder from? Can anyone point me in the right direction...would the screwfix ones be a good bet? I need it for general work on my motorcycle, and it would be a whole lot easier with this.

Thanks

{made non make/model spcific} Read more

piston power

This is an old thread but to answer the the bottom post a good mig welder is ideal but you need to see one in action go to a welding supplies shop and try them out.

E bay flog loads of returns be carefull what you buy.

Now to air guns old post i know but can't go wrong with ingersol rand they make the compressors this gun i have has had some stick and works a treat, mac tools guns are the same or they was, blue point/snap my blue point gun did not last too long disapointing.

But you get what you pay for draper do a expert range not bad for the diy light use.

Alanovich

All,

I am considering buying a 1999 Mark II Mondeo as a "spare" car, probaly going to be used one day a week on average.

The one I'm looking at has done 82k miles, full history, and it looks and sounds like it's got a lot of life left in it. It's a 2.0i Ghia, auto. Hatch.

However, the aircon gas is leaking. The current owner had it regassed, but within three weeks air was no longer running cold, therefore he suspects a leak rather than a compressor failure or the like.

I do really like my aircon and don't want a car without it. Does anyone have any idea what a worst case ball park figure might be for fixing this? It'll give me a bit of leeway on the asking price. Fellow is asking just under a grand, which does sound a few hundred too high anyway.

I am keen on this particular car as it's otherwise very genuine, is on sale very close to me and has been looked after by a known good independent for some years. It has also had the obligatory cambelt change in fairly recent times at 65k miles.

Thanks for any advice. Read more

Alanovich

Well, Mrs A has changed the equation somewhat. Her true unhappiness with the Mazda 6 has been revealed - it's too big. So Mondeos are hardly a satisfying alternative. We already have the Touran, as Avant points out, for transporting the family/dog when we're all travelling together or doing longer journeys (which will become more common once child number 2 grows out of her tendency to travel sickness).

Mrs A is stuck on her Roadster - this she uses on a daily basis to comute and transport child 1 to and from school. My daily commute includes the run to nursery with child 2. We do need to keep a third car at home, a second 4+ seater, for the occasions when I need a car but I'm not able to transport child 2, and Mrs A needs to switch wagons to carry both children.

Mrs A's priority is that this car should be as reliable and as modern in the crash-worthiness stakes as possible. My economic argument for changing the Mazda 6 for the Mondeo has been overruled. Not only that, there's no ISOFIX in a MkII Mondeo.

So we have come to the conclusion that, should I be happy to part with the 6 (I still do like it a lot), the best alternative is a Mazda 3 of similar vintage and value. I want the saloon if this is to happen, as I prefer saloons, estates and "long" hatches (eg Mazda 6 and Mondeo) over "stubby" hatches (Golf/Focus class).

I have spotted two near identical examples of automatic 3 saloons - same age, colour, mileage (with 2k miles), same history, same spec, same everything. One is near home in the South East, the other is up in Arctic Yorkshire, where they talk funny like. I'd obviously prefer to buy close to home, but this being the rip-off South East, the asking price is £750 higher. A not to be sniffed at difference in the £5k car range. The northern car is with a main VW (sic) dealer, the Southern with a reputable independent. Which makes the difference even more galling.

So how do I go about convincing the Southern dealer to price match his colleague oop north?