June 2009

Too Far

Over the past few months my car has been going a bit weird.

When travelling in 30mph, if I put my foot down on the accelerator, the revs would go up, but I wouldn't get any increase in speed, just a loud noise! After about 5 long seconds the car would pick up speed and the revs would decrease. Also when sat at traffic lights the revs seem really low, they hover just below the 1000 mark and it feels like it will cut out.

After talking to a few people they said I needed a new clutch.

I got the clutch replaced and fitted today. I've just taken the car out for short test drive but due to speed restrictions only got up to about 50mph - the initial problem of high revs but no speed seems to have improved. Although not 100% like it was before. I will need to take the car onto a duel carriage way or motorway to really see if it has been fixed.

But the low revs when sat at traffic lights is still there, if anything it seems a little bit worse than before.

Were the two problems unconnected?

If so, do I have a leg to stand on if and when I take it back?

Any input would be great, thanks.
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Peter.N.

The 'engine speed increasing' was undoubtedly due to the clutch slipping and should now be OK. The tickover speed will not be affected by the clutch unless its not disengaging properly, which would make it difficult to get into gear and the car would tend to creep forwards. Just under 1000 rpm sounds about right for tickover speed.

watto19

hello,hope someone can help is there anyway to make the locking manual only i.e locking passenger and rear doors from inside and then useing key to lock drivers door as at moment when i lock with remote or key in either door it locks and then reopens.i have looked on previous topics but if easier would rather just have manual locking as def not mechanicaal minded to be able to do wiring looms and such,thanks Read more

pantherag

You could also try disconnecting the central locking ECU/brain which should be under the rear passenger seats, around the drivers side.

lakedaimon

Hello and congratulations for this site.
I would really appreciate it if you could give me your advice!
Im going to take the car to the mechanic tomorrow to fix a blown head gasket.
(symptoms are reduced performance, bubbles of gass coming through the water
in the radiator and overheating)
I have had overheating problems all the summer of 2008, took it 3 times to the mechanic,
changed water pump, radiator, radiator cup and thermostat. By the third time summer was almost over so temperatures were not so high and did nt have any overheating issue
until yesterday (begining of new summer of 2009...).
The car was overheated as it did last summer, so i let it cool down and then opened radiator to add some water and noticed that this time there were bubbles forming up, many bubbles, so including reduced performance i quess its 100% a case of a blown
head gasket.
Sorry to bother you with all these details, bottom line is since the mechanic is going to open a certain part of the engine to replace the gasket, does this give him the chance to chek also anything else at that part of the engine?
And do you have any suggestions?
I really need your help cause i have spend a fortune on this car because i love it so much
but so far i have nt been able to use it with pleasure any summer :(
Please forgive my bad english, i am from Greece.
Thank you for your time and for reading my topic!
Looking forward for your presious advice. Read more

lakedaimon

:-) Thank you Jonny!
Just droped by to bring you the good news. Ok this is a forum about technical problems but it dont hurt to bring new about a solved problem does it? :)
Especially after all of you guys gave me your advice for which i thank u again very much.

Today i took the car from the mechanic and i must admit it that the new engine sounds and feels nothing like the old one. No messy noise at all, very stable at idle, no tic tic noise from valves, sounds excellent.
And regarding performance.... it rocks!!! :) Most important i love the smooth sound it makes now. at last it sounds like an engine in perfect order.

And quess what, NO OVERHEATING AT ALL! So overheating was not because of radiator, not because of water pump or whatever else but because of a veeery
old engine.

All in all i payed 350euro for the first repair of the old dead engine, 300 euro to buy the new (old engine) and 150 euro for various spare parts that were needed to install the new engine.

Lazarus (my car) and i thank u very much for your care and support and advices.
Hopefully we wont need your help any time soon but we ll be serfing in this forum
since its very interested and full of usefull advices and experiences.

THANK U VERY MUCH ENJOY YOUR SUMMER!!!!

PEGEUOT 405 :-)

woodster

Think I'm slightly barmy and SWMBO is feigning interest so I'll tell anyone who will read - I've been on a tour of the Axel Maersk at Felixstowe today, including climbing around the oily bits. All 76000hp of 'em to power 352 metres of ship. Couldn't take pictures but plenty of stuff on the net anyway. Nothing like being there to get the scale of this ship and the huge engine though. A spare cylinder liner at one end of the engine room and spare piston at the other. Can't imagine the task of changing either. Little inspection hatches in the side of the block - a small man can climb in and there's a ladder up the side of the liner! For about 30 minutes I think I was 12 again. Just the Emma Maersk to go then I can tick off the worlds largest Diesel. Don't think I can pull that one off somehow. Read more

Old Navy

I had the honour of putting a large scratch down the side of a newly
painted Royal Yacht when she was anchored on the River Dart. Those Picket Boats had
a mind of their own at times!!

I managed to ram a submarine with mine!
nick

Here's what you need...

www.youtube.com/watch?v=cY1YndLmbXQ

Mods: nothing rude, one very mild swear word.

{been posted before, and I think it was made non clickable then as well} Read more

Old Navy

The real stuff with that name is a Nulon product sold in (you guessed it) Australia.

fredthefifth

Hi All,

Looking at the SAAB 9-5 HOT and notice that the auto version is 1.2 seconds (8.1s v 6.9s) slower than the manual box. I know auto's are slower but normally it's only half a second or so. 1.2s seems quite a wide margin.

Is there anything about the SAAB auto box or auto box's in general that I should know?

Cheers.
FTF Read more

fredthefifth

Hi All,

Not the car that i started this thread on, but I test drove an 07 SAAB 93 1.9TiD (150 bhp) today. It had the auto box which was incredibly slow to respond. For example driving at 30mph and flooring it I reckon that it took at least 1 second before anything happend. Same when at rest - I certainly had to be carefull at a busy roundabout where you have to be quick to get away otherwise you will sit there for ages!

It was very smooth and a lovely drive and liked the car and when it got going it was pretty quick, but the auto box was very slow when pulling away and in kick down. I mentioned it to the dealer (SAAB dealership) who didnt offer any explanation, but unless it turns out that that one was faulty I don't think I will go for a SAAB with an auto box.

Shame really cos I fancied both!

Regards.
FTF

kevin1710

i have got a fiat punto 2000 on an 'X' it is a 1.2 8 valve. the problem i get is on the odd occasion after i have been out in it i stop the car and turn off the ignition perhaps to pop into a shop and when i return it fails to start it turns over very slowly as if the battery is flat (but i have had it checked)but once i have bump started it its perfectly ok and will go on for weeks without missing a beat starting every day no problem then just as before it will do it again for no apparent reason i wondered if anyone has had a similar problem or can shed any light on mine
thank you
kevin Read more

kevin1710

thanks for that i will take a look and get back to you ,its much appreciated

mariotech

Looked everywhere for this but can't find it anywhere can anyone help
Thanks Jonathan Read more

mustangman

I?m sure this will have been covered before, so apologies for any previous.

Having travelled on a long hot trip about a week ago when it was hot, I?m still left with some of the baked-on remains of bugs. ( even after lots of rain. ) It?s a black car so they seem to show.

I?ve tried hot water & sponge, and non-abrasive kitchen cleaners, but there always seems to be some left on.

I?m trying not to scratch the surface of course, so I?m being careful.

Any products or techniques that have proved effective, without scratching?

( I?m not going for an old pan scourer on the new motor ! )
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Victorbox

Blob of Autoglym Super Resin polish, soak in for a minute and polish off. Good layer of same polish all over front paintwork will mean they don't stick. Use Autoglym Fast Glass if bug is on the windscreen or headlamps.

Mick Snutz

My left indicator has a life of its own and either won't stop flashing or comes on by itself much to the annoyance of following drivers.

A Pug dealer has quoted me £190plus VAT and labour to fit a new indicator comms unit.

is this something I can source and fit myself? Where can I start looking?

I've consulted the Haynes manual but it only provides grainy black and white advice to go with its grainy black and white photos!

The car does not have cruise control.

thanks

{typo in header corrected} Read more

steve_earwig

Neiman? Another day, another supplier.

Glad you sorted it anyway.