January 2009
I have an intermitent turbo failure problem with my Galaxy - when I accelerate reasonably hard it regularly cuts out but then re-sets when I switch the engine off and on again. Ford and a Ford Main Dealer have tried a range of things (costing me £800) and have failed to fix. They now suggest a new turbo but will only put an 80% chance of success on this expensive action. Has anyone had a similar problem and managed to solve it. Read more
high folks,hope someone can shed some light on a problem of oil usage,using around a litre of oil every thousand miles or so,no leaks or blue smoke and nothing showing on plugs which would point to rings being worn. Vauxhall (bless them)reckon oil scrapper rings may be worn and want the best part of a grand to replace said rings. has anyone else got or had this problem, if so what was your remedy
cheers aeroeng Read more
hi injection doc .You have hit the nail on the head there . I drive economy style light throttle everywhere and as you say maximum manifold suck. also believing that light synthetic oil is best .. I did an oil and filter change and the engine had a previous cam cover oil leak .. so this was sorted and the oil consumption was recognised immediately.I am going to do what the guy with the turbo zx did . change back to 10-40 mineral oil and see if that helps with the oil consumption .
Failing that I will have a play and use my compressor to pressurise the valves closed and replace the valve seals ....
2001 Chrysler Grand Voyager 2.5 CRD
Can anyone help please ??? Car drives fine around town with gentle accelerating and will even get up to 70+ (eventually!) on a motorway.. however as soon as you put your foot down under load the car's engine surges and looses all power. No lights come on the dash at all until virtually stopped and the car has cut out. Unable to start again for a few seconds. The starter turn over fast but nothing. Does it sound like fuel starvation or something more sinister i.e. expensive ????? No obvious signs of any loose vacuum pipes or leaking fuel. Dirty/Blocked fuel filter ?? Any advice gratefully received. Cheers Read more
This stalling in the chrysler voyager crd is related to Algae growing in the fuel tank. -Bad fuel that's all it is. ( I don't understand why any diesel or good mechanic won't talk about this when it's common knowledge) I guess makes too much money for the dealers.
This is so rare its not common ,and there are not many diesels with this problem....
A friend of mine sold a his old car, to some one who was slightly dodgy. He gave the log book to the new owner to send to DVLA, to date he has not recieved notification from the DVLA, to say the car has been passed on, to a new keeper. This was in early November. On top of this he is not exactly sure where the buyer lives.
Besides the usual niggles of perhaps getting speeding & parking tickets. Has he commited a crime and if so what can he expect? Read more
if you read my link on the youguv link i provided it gives a link to tell you that you can sorn your vehicle up to 2 months before its due if you are going abroad and send a covering letter to the dvla,it then goes on to tell you they will advise you by post that its sorned,thing is you are in marbella with your mates spending the unearned readies,how do you know the letter came?
pathetic
My 1997 2.7 TDI Terrano / Maverick intermittently refuses to start . I have changed the starter motor and the glow plugs and had a heavy discharge test done on the battery. The engine cranking speed never has been spectacular but after the first few turns of the engine it slows to virtually nothing. The last dealer to look at the problem said a new alternator was required as the output was low. Evidently he was not aware that the glow plugs kept running until the engine temperature reached a pre-determined level. Once the engine is warm the alternator charges at not far short of 14 volts.
The engine will start on a tow and will start using Easy Start (ether) but these are hardly long term solutions.
I have seen a post elsewhere suggesting a malfunctioning Glow Plug relay might be the problem but there was no follow up to say whether its replacement solved the problem.
I would appreciate advice from anyone who has successfully resolved a similar problem.
Thanks
Uncletom46 Read more
i suggest you use this link
www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com
join the dedicated owners club and get some information from the guys and gals on there.
it may be more accurate
The 17 year old Honda I am temporarily driving woke up this morning with a serious and expensive fault - the nearside headlight bulb had failed overnight.
Well knowing how difficult it is to change similar bulbs in modern Renaults, I went on my way to various surveys and came by a motor factors. I pulled in, and opened the bonnet in trepidation.......
Five minutes later, involving removing the old bulb, going into the shop and buying a new bulb (£2.95) fitting the new bulb and closing the bonnet, I was driving away perfectly legally.
Why can't all cars be like that. Read more
Called out by an old customer to change a dip bulb on top of range Rover 75. Couldn't figure out access, even under arch, so he said he'd take it to supplying main dealer. They did it and gave him a bill for £650......said the electronics had to be fiddled about with..Called later at local Saab agent for some part and recounted this tale to the service manager. He said that's what they would charge on some of their models.....is this true ? My customer got it done on warranty, thank goodness.
Ted
Allowed a person to borrow my car on the understanding he had own insurance to drive another car. Had accident, found out he was only a named driver on his brothers policy and was not covered. The accident was his fault and the other party are claiming against me, my insurance will not accept any claim because i was not driving the car. I have lost my car, it was a write off. Am i liable for the other party claim? Read more
I appreciate all the comments made, it just shows how opinions differ even in the legal fraternity. I am trying to glean some knowledge of the best or worst I may have to face.
So... The battery had died 8v remaining because my mother had been in hospital and she could not drive for a while... I opened the bonnet, locked the doors with fob, disconnected the battery, closed the bonnet, charged the battery overnight (hence why i locked the doors)...
The question is how do i get back in the car? There are no locks on the door for the key to be inserted, i need to get in the car to open the bonnet to put the battery back in, without the battery the central locking doesn't work...
Stuck...
Any help would be appreciated...
Kind regards
Pete
Read more
can't remove the plastic cover in order to get to it. Any advice on how to get the thing off?
Wonder if it's the same procedure as the Almera? "insert the key in the caps base-slot and prise it off" (taken from an old reply of mine in another thread)
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=e&t=56...2
52 reg 307. Red flashing central locking light has started to flash rapidly when trying to start the car. any advice? the car will now not start
Regards Read more
has anyone sorted out this problem?
Hi all
My diesel 520 failed to start after a boxing day shopping trip. The iDrive was reporting fuel pump failure then cruise control failure, then reported it was launching some kind of Start Assist program.
Upon pressing the start button the engine was attempting to turn but was not firing. The symbol came up on the dash board showing the car up on a ramp, suggesting I should go to the garage, what a useful idea :-)
BMW promised to send someone to rescue me. We sat there for over an hour but no one came so I tried to start it again and sure enough it did start. Looked in the iDrive faults area and it had no reported faults and the car was back to normal - weird I thought, a minute ago the fuel pump was allegedly broken, the Cruise control had a fault and the start assist program had been started. Now the car is back to normal with no record of a problem??
The following morning I attempted to start the car again and was back to square one, fuel pump, cruise control faults, start assist message and the car on the ramp symbol on the dash board. So I called BMW Emergency Service, 4 hours later the BMW rescue service themselves arrive. He tried to start it and thank goodness it was still exhibiting the failures.
He plugged in the diagnostics and although the car was struggling to start and was reporting failures to me there was no communication with my car from his laptop!!! The BMW man said "I've seen this before", popped the bonnet up, pulled all the plastic covers out, pulled out a relay, put in a new one then the car started perfectly normally.
Did the diagnostics thing again and it communicated but there were no fault codes in the system. How ridiculous?!?! So if the car had started on his arrival there would be nothing for him to go on and I would have probably been charged for wasting their time etc etc.
Not to mention that if he hadn't seen this sticking relay issue before another garage/technician might have started changing the components being reported as faulty on the iDrive, fuel pump etc.
Apparently this relay provided power to the ECU, instead of the fault system reporting a no power scenario it reported loads of other stuff and apparently can't store a fault because the ECU has no power. Goodness knows what computer was throwing up all of the iDrive messages then??
Just thought i'd post this nice story in case some other poor unsuspecting BMW owners fall foul to this sticking relay issue.
Adam Read more
hi,do you know what relay it is?????cheers ady i have same problem and its doing my head in spending money and getting no where!!!!!!!
Browse
The turbo on this VW engine doesn't have a wastegate, it uses a variable vane mechanism.
Exhaust soot gets into the mechanism & jams it up causing it to stick. You really need a diagnostic test to find out the fault code, if it's turbo overboost you'll need to get the turbo removed & clean out the variable vane mechanism.