January 2009
We are looking for a suitable car for our 17 year old to learn in. He's 18 in April and we thought it would be a good idea to get him a basic CHEAP but safe motor for about 2 grand. Group 1 insurance, low tax all the rest of it. All our family had Fiats when we were growing up as my dad sold them and I have a soft spot for them, as far as we can make out he is not bothered as long as it's warm and dry. Probably not to bothered about the French ones but the kids do seem to like them and I feel that if he doesn't have somthing similar there will be less "competition"; in fact what is the least cool car we could get him, a Micra?
Thanks guys its been a long time since I was on the forum but I know you will come up with the goods
Daedalus Read more
I currently have a Citroen C5 HDI 2.0 8v 2003 model. Im thinking of replacing it at some point with a new Skoda Superb.
Im particularly attracted to the 1.9 PD Diesel engine but its a bit of an unknown for me.
Im sure there are plenty around and would welcome some advice as I intend to keep it a long time (possbly 10 years)........
Are they reliable?
Are there any known weak points?
What mpg can I expect?
How many miles can I expect to get out of one if I change the oil regularly?
Are they a decent drive or as rough as some of the magazines suggest?
Would I be better off spending the extra money and opting for the 140 BHP engine?
Or must I spend even more money and go for the common rail engine?
Cheers
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My Superb II Pd 105 is equipped with 205/55/R16 94XL (extra load) tyres which are less compliant than the 91 sidewalls fitted to my similiarly engined Octy II.
I agree, the Superb II ride quality is comparable with a Octy II, Laguna, Passat etc. The C5 I test drove was comy, but uninvolving. In comparision the current Mondeo ride quality is breathtaking; absorbing broken edges with seeming ease.
If you opted for a Superb II with 16 inch wheels and 91 sidewall tyres the ride should be better than an Octavia. As it stands, my Superb II drives exactly like my Octy II, the extra weight being well disguised.
I have a Volvo XC90 D5 SE Geartronic which I bought new in June 2004 and which has covered 35,000 miles. I read the recent auction report on this site that stated that an XC90 price reflected the common problems and expense with injector failure. A look at the car by car whats bad section revealed that the cam belt and tensioner are also prone to failure and should be replaced at 60,000 miles or 4 years. Can anyone shed any more light on this subject? As this engine is widely used in the Volvo range, does this problem occur in V70s, S80s etc. Also what is the cost to get it done, and does the official serving schedule call it up at any point. Finally, is failure catastrophic to the engine, and what would a replacement cost? Any thoughts gratefully recieved. Read more
I have an S80SE on a 53 plate it has now done 214,347 miles it is the best car I have ever owned it's about to get a bottom body re-spray this week, it is as good as new and still has loads of original parts two many to mention! I have never missed a service and its never let me down the only worn part is the steering wheel which is now smooth! I use it as a work horse doing executive hire and hope it will keep going for many more years. I have had it from new so know all the history
high folks,hope someone can shed some light on a problem of oil usage,using around a litre of oil every thousand miles or so,no leaks or blue smoke and nothing showing on plugs which would point to rings being worn. Vauxhall (bless them)reckon oil scrapper rings may be worn and want the best part of a grand to replace said rings. has anyone else got or had this problem, if so what was your remedy
cheers aeroeng Read more
hi injection doc .You have hit the nail on the head there . I drive economy style light throttle everywhere and as you say maximum manifold suck. also believing that light synthetic oil is best .. I did an oil and filter change and the engine had a previous cam cover oil leak .. so this was sorted and the oil consumption was recognised immediately.I am going to do what the guy with the turbo zx did . change back to 10-40 mineral oil and see if that helps with the oil consumption .
Failing that I will have a play and use my compressor to pressurise the valves closed and replace the valve seals ....
2001 Chrysler Grand Voyager 2.5 CRD
Can anyone help please ??? Car drives fine around town with gentle accelerating and will even get up to 70+ (eventually!) on a motorway.. however as soon as you put your foot down under load the car's engine surges and looses all power. No lights come on the dash at all until virtually stopped and the car has cut out. Unable to start again for a few seconds. The starter turn over fast but nothing. Does it sound like fuel starvation or something more sinister i.e. expensive ????? No obvious signs of any loose vacuum pipes or leaking fuel. Dirty/Blocked fuel filter ?? Any advice gratefully received. Cheers Read more
This stalling in the chrysler voyager crd is related to Algae growing in the fuel tank. -Bad fuel that's all it is. ( I don't understand why any diesel or good mechanic won't talk about this when it's common knowledge) I guess makes too much money for the dealers.
This is so rare its not common ,and there are not many diesels with this problem....
A friend of mine sold a his old car, to some one who was slightly dodgy. He gave the log book to the new owner to send to DVLA, to date he has not recieved notification from the DVLA, to say the car has been passed on, to a new keeper. This was in early November. On top of this he is not exactly sure where the buyer lives.
Besides the usual niggles of perhaps getting speeding & parking tickets. Has he commited a crime and if so what can he expect? Read more
if you read my link on the youguv link i provided it gives a link to tell you that you can sorn your vehicle up to 2 months before its due if you are going abroad and send a covering letter to the dvla,it then goes on to tell you they will advise you by post that its sorned,thing is you are in marbella with your mates spending the unearned readies,how do you know the letter came?
pathetic
Hi my name is Kenny . I have a renault scenic 1.9dci and recently it has developed a fault which is as follows - After start up first thing in the morning, the car is very sluggish as it accelerates thru the gears (virtually no pulling power for a 120bhp engine) when it reaches 2500 revs in either 3rd or 4th, a warning light will appear on the dash "CHECK INJECTORS". Will drive to destination (usually 4 or 5 miles)with the car not allowing me to drive any faster than 2500 revs in any gear, and stop. On start up after that, the warning light disappears and the acceleration appears to be okay (can go above 2500 revs with no warning). I have also noticed that the car is losing mpg as it is now only doing approx 36mpg where as before it would do about 42 mpg. Have had car into local garage where nothing appeared on their computer. Glow plugs have been replaced and redex has been added to a tank of diesel - still no avail. Can you help!!
Also for note of interest, just before the fault developed, the engine coolant was low (above minimum) so I topped it up with coolant (undiluted as it air temperature was getting cold). Would this have any affect and allow the car to develop the symptoms as described above?
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Hi there, I know this thread was 2009. I have the very same problem , just after having a recon turbo fitted new egr valve and waste gate as well as a full service and got car back with no power and only allows 2500 revs and when it gets to this it says check injectors and then drives fine for a while. Could you let me know what the outcome was with your car in 2009. Thank you.
My 1997 2.7 TDI Terrano / Maverick intermittently refuses to start . I have changed the starter motor and the glow plugs and had a heavy discharge test done on the battery. The engine cranking speed never has been spectacular but after the first few turns of the engine it slows to virtually nothing. The last dealer to look at the problem said a new alternator was required as the output was low. Evidently he was not aware that the glow plugs kept running until the engine temperature reached a pre-determined level. Once the engine is warm the alternator charges at not far short of 14 volts.
The engine will start on a tow and will start using Easy Start (ether) but these are hardly long term solutions.
I have seen a post elsewhere suggesting a malfunctioning Glow Plug relay might be the problem but there was no follow up to say whether its replacement solved the problem.
I would appreciate advice from anyone who has successfully resolved a similar problem.
Thanks
Uncletom46 Read more
i suggest you use this link
www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com
join the dedicated owners club and get some information from the guys and gals on there.
it may be more accurate
The 17 year old Honda I am temporarily driving woke up this morning with a serious and expensive fault - the nearside headlight bulb had failed overnight.
Well knowing how difficult it is to change similar bulbs in modern Renaults, I went on my way to various surveys and came by a motor factors. I pulled in, and opened the bonnet in trepidation.......
Five minutes later, involving removing the old bulb, going into the shop and buying a new bulb (£2.95) fitting the new bulb and closing the bonnet, I was driving away perfectly legally.
Why can't all cars be like that. Read more
Called out by an old customer to change a dip bulb on top of range Rover 75. Couldn't figure out access, even under arch, so he said he'd take it to supplying main dealer. They did it and gave him a bill for £650......said the electronics had to be fiddled about with..Called later at local Saab agent for some part and recounted this tale to the service manager. He said that's what they would charge on some of their models.....is this true ? My customer got it done on warranty, thank goodness.
Ted
Allowed a person to borrow my car on the understanding he had own insurance to drive another car. Had accident, found out he was only a named driver on his brothers policy and was not covered. The accident was his fault and the other party are claiming against me, my insurance will not accept any claim because i was not driving the car. I have lost my car, it was a write off. Am i liable for the other party claim? Read more
I appreciate all the comments made, it just shows how opinions differ even in the legal fraternity. I am trying to glean some knowledge of the best or worst I may have to face.
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another old thread revived by a newbie backroomer.