May 2007

Vince

I have a July 2002 VW Passat TDI Sport [PDI engine] with 42,000 miles. Everything ran normally until I took it in for a service. i.e. it pulled strongly until 2,000 revs when the turbo kicked in. There was then a real surge of power at 2,000 revs when the car really took off and pulled like a steam train right through the revs even in high gears and gave excellent performance.

I took it in to a local garage that specialised in VW's for the service. It was a normal service plus the replacement of all the brake pads - £370. I was also informed that the cam belt was starting to crack up an should be replaced in the very near future. When I drove the car after picking it up, it was totally different with a complete loss of power. In particular there was no surge of power associated with a turbo kicking in at 2,000 revs, or any where else in the power range. I've now got a slow donkey of a car with no acceleration that needs to be revved hard to just produce even an average rate of acceleration that my old 1300 Nissan Sunny would comfortably match. I noticed I have to change gears a lot more than before just to maintain a reasonable level of momentum. [and obviously I want to keep the revs at a minimum until the cam belt is changed].

At one stage it showed a reluctance to rev above 3,500 in 4th gear and seemed to stick on 3,500 revs for a while. On another occasion I thought I may have detected a bit of a kick in at about 3,500+ revs and some power. I contacted the garage immediately only to be told that nothing they did in the service would affect the performance of the turbo or create the loss of power. One of the mechanics speculated there could be air in the fuel line.

Any ideas, as I'm about to do battle with the garage and got the feeling they are going to fight their corner and refuse to accept any responsibility for the total change in my car.

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Graemetdci

I recently had to have the flywheel replaced on my Focus 1.8 TDCi. Got exactly the same symptoms that you have described - absolutely no power afterwards - as if there was no turbo. Immediately took it back to the garage who, without hesitation, checked all the connections to the turbo. A pipe had been accidently kinked and split, resulting in the loss of power. This was quickly rectified and upon leaving, the car was back to normal again (except for not having the hot start problem caused by the duff flywheel, but that's another story), absolutely no hassle. Sounds to me like this garage are just trying to wriggle out of admitting that they may, and most probably inadvertinently, have created the problem and their excuses are totally unacceptable - stand up to them.

Manatee

Apology if this has been posted - can't find it in forum search though it was in the news last week.

My BMW-riding colleague has often chortled that the forward facing cameras don't catch bikes - must show him this story when he gets back from holiday.

A Dunstable biker had been making a habit of riding past three of these every day at 100mph while making victory gestures - this presumably annoyed the police so much that they actually traced him ...

www.visordown.com/motorcyclenews/view/biker_busted...l

Can't condone of course but he made me smile. Read more

happytorque

True, it may catch the occassional nutter, and im all for that;...... but, the chances are its going to catch a far greater number of thoroughly decent types who, because they were probably spending their time looking where they were going, rather than staring down constantly at speedometers, just happened to accidentally stray up to 36mph on a downhill stretch of road.
These people are not 'imbecilic morons'; they are perfectly decent people who because they were concentrating on the road, driving probably very safely, suddenly find themselves with points on their licence.
The whole thing stinks if you ask me.

Armitage Shanks {p}

Just for general info. There are Specs Cameras on the Northampton ring road, I've only been there in the dark so can't comment on the signage, Also the stretch of the A14 from Alconbury to Cambridge is a Specs area (about 10 miles) but very clearly signed all the way.

Mods please move this if it is the wrong place!
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Altea Ego

The notts ring road (A43) was one of the first specs zones in the uk. Been there for some years. Most specs are ok, they are clearly visible for what they are
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >

maddad

Hi can anyone help with this problem ?
My car usually starts Ok and usually runs fine as long as you don't stop !
If you stop for 5 - 10 minutes or so, the car will sometimes not start unless you put your foot flat on the accelerator fault lights off at this stage. Then when it starts it idles rough with the red injector fault light on. Sometimes after running like that for a while the red injector fault warning light goes out and the car is Ok. Sometimes when driving (after a 10 min. stop) the car cuts out altogether and you have to put your foot flat on the accelerator to get it going again and the red injector fault light comes on, otherwise it will just eventually stop. Sometimes the red injector fault light does not go out when first starting the car from cold and it idles rough but you can drive it like that. I have "reset" the ECU a few times using the procedure in the Haynes manual. I have changed the following :-
Injector body top including choke stepper motor injector etc
Ignition coils, see below
TDC sensor, at one time it would not start at all until I changed this. The above fault appeared a long time (a few months) after I replaced the petrol tank filler pipe (complete assembly) and after replacing that, there was no pressure in the tank. Before pressure would build up in the petrol tank while driving, you could hear it escape when you took the petrol cap off. Dont know if thats significant, maybe just a coincidence. I have had a diagnostic test done, before all the ECU resets, but no fault showed UP !! any help appreciated thanks ! Read more

bell boy


does valve work in innerwing that vents fumes to the charcoal cannister/see if you can hear CLICK it when you turn ignition OFF

scfc_151

im after a pair of cooling fan motors for a 306 hdi
ive been told that they have had it and mine are made by ECIA

does anybody know what motors could i fit to my car as im struggling to locate any. For example could i use fans off a 1995 306 with no aircon as long as the fan motors are made by ECIA

im not planning on taking the cowling out (as the multiplug is stuck) so any fan that will fit will do

Do any other peugeots ie. 406s have similar fans?

cheers Read more

defender

do a search on euro car parts and find the number for the fan for your car then put the number back in to search for other cars

barney100

Son and I were strolling into town the other day and we pondered a shiny yellow camera. I daydreamed that Captain Gatso would appear to no avail. Now there were two little holes facing one way and on the other side what appeared to be a flash unit and camera. Correct me if I am wrong but it seems that you are monitored approaching the camera and photographed after you have passed by. Read more

Pugugly {P}

www.speedaware.org.uk/faq.aspx

.

bursty

Does anyone know what the size and thickness the rear brake pads are on a 2003 Vauxhall Astra 1.8 SRi?

Your help would be very much appreciated. Read more

yorkiebar

Ask at a quality motor factors and they will tell you all the dimensions and what else they may fit .

oilrag

Its often a common policy of economic car ownership to buy at 2 or 3 years old to lose the high initial depreciation, but (IMHO) times have changed and certain models pose enhanced risks.

Decades ago when I learnt to drive as a teenager (and as a consequence work on cars) any inadvertant abuse of the car was tempered by a growing mechanical sympathy due to understanding and being able to *visualise* what was going on, in for example the clutch, or oil flow around a cold engine.
Most of the new cars of that era were bought by the relatively wealthy older people who tended to look after them.
Well.. There was Auntie Nelly, slipping the clutch a bit and witless about the mechanics, but the proposition I am making is that *new car abuse* is often more extensive and model specific today.

There are two models in a manufacturers range, discussed in another marque specific forum. One is typically bought by pensioners or young female drivers. It has few problems and seems a reasonable bet at 3 years old.

The other model seems to have taken over the role of the old modded Novas or Corsa`s of a decade or so ago however Its not a Vauxhall.

This newish, large supermini is often bought brand new by 17yr olds who are getting their first car, courtesy of parents. so none of the suffering of personal saving, doing without things as a result applies.

Whoo Hoo then :)

Some are chipped as soon as purchased, run off the limiter at every gear change even when cold as though its a computer game. A group of owners ran some on neat cooking oil with no concerns of the fuel pump and injectors, One guy banged a new one into second gear to overtake a truck seemingly putting it beyond the limited engine speed on the changedown, then held it at the limiter, blue smoke pouring out the back. It reportedly doesnt have the same power now and he`s puzzled why. ( really puzzled that is, no mech awareness at all)

Their cars have lots of breakages and faults and often there is putting water into the sump (other fluids into the wrong places) and going the full 12,000 miles to the first service without opening the bonnet. Oil pressure lights coming on during cornering due to almost no oil and running it like that until finally getting advice on what it means and then putting in some cheap oil. Astounding examples of ineptitude and knowing and unknowing mechanical abuse charactorising their period of ownership.

The general plan is to keep quiet about a lot of this and then move them on at about 3 years old..............

Our economic buyer who would not dream of buying new, then buys these cars....
So IMHO, some particular `cult`models are a real risk these days, far more than in days gone by.

Then there is the petrol into common rail diesel and running it 40 miles until it finally chugs to a halt, quietly part exchanged and coming soon as a nice " someone else has taken the initial depreciation 3 year old" to a dealer near you.

As for me? There`s no way I`m going to buy a small sub £8,000 car used, I`ll take the hit on buying new, then keep it 15yrs.

I also think I`m turning into Victor Meldew, I wonder why?

Regards
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Number_Cruncher

>>ping the limiter snatch the next...

And once the engine is properly warm, what's wrong with that?

Number_Cruncher

movilogo

In general, for same spec cars, between manual & automatic which is cheaper to maintain?

I've never owned automatic cars so far. 2 cars I owned in the past had to undergo clutch replacement around 70k miles (cost around £175-ish each time).

This time I'm looking for an automatic (mostly for my wife who recently started learning to drive and after several lessons still having fights with gearstick & clutch).

Other than slightly lower fuel economy, is there anything about automatics I should be aware of?

I'm yet to decide which car to buy though. Read more

Vincent de Marco

One may begin to wonder about genuine American auto box reliability. You know, those exotic ones (to us anyway) like Buick LaCrosse, Chrysler LHS, Chevrolet Lumina or Pontiac Bonnevile. A friend of mine fell in love with Oldsmobile Aurora MY '2001 4.0 V8 and 4-speed auto, brought it to Europe and... it packed up on German autobahn doing about 170 km/h or so. The box itself just couldn't stand such a pace, those cars are designed to cruise and that's that. Pity, as they produce automatics since forever...
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Free enterprise is the basis of western democracy.

steveo3002

i need to fit one new front caliper (old one keeps sticking) i recently changed the fluid and had a real job getting the rears to bleed properly even with the load valve forced open

so my question is...when i fit the new caliper can i just bleed that corner?

1991 g60 golf with abs Read more

Cliff Pope

I have always undone the connection and then quickly stuck a wooden wedge or golf T into the end to stop the fluid running out. Bench bleed the new unit, filling to the brim, and likewise plug the hole. Refit caliper, then quicky reconnect. Leave the joint a turn loose, and gently press the pedal to expel air at the joint, like getting air out of a domestic radiator. Tighten up. Usually there is no need to do any other bleeding.