August 2004
Any one had water in passenger footwell? Location of leak? Thanks
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seen the car in halewood last week.
it looks like an exact copy of a range rover but sits lower.
mobiles where not allowed into the viewing, but it looks a decent attempt.
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I saw a pic - could have been a computer generated one, of new Freelander. Looked neat - much better than current one.
But are you sure what you saw at Halewood wasn't another forthcoming niche model, called the 'Range Sport' or something similar? That does look like a Range Rover, but smaller.
Years ago I was taken on a school visit round the Vauxhall factory at Luton. This was in the era of the HC Viva, the final version of the model. We noticed there were some odd-looking coupe versions on the production line. The man showing us round explained they were a special export model for Canada and that there was no point in asking any more questions because he wouldn't answer them. A few weeks later the ugly Firenza coupe was launched!
Cheers, Sofa Spud
if anyone has read -
Proton have abandoned talks with the midland boys over a rover version on the GEN 2 car which would have been a 25 replacement.
they said it was 'not viable'
the Gen 2 looks a cracking package for £8995.
not only does it have a nipply 1.6 with 110bhp, but lotus suspension and engine. it looks good to.
Rover have really missed out.
So what does rover have left now?
Tata dont do an alternative size car.
The other partnership with the Chinese firm is to develop a rover 75 replacement.
looks like the 25 could be round for a few more years yet.
I just cant see how it can be faced lifted anymore without seriously changing the dynamics of the shape.
anyhow - with MGzs brand new for under 9 grand, rover citys getting a price cut and Rover offering nothing to younger buyers.
sad to say, but as someone who would love to buy british and into the rover heritage - nothing there for me to purchase.
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From the balance of opinions expressed on the two backroom threads that would explain a lot. Initially the poll showed a sizeable majority going for the company facing a great challenge, but it seemed to swing towards a revival very suddenly.
Bridgestone B391?s on Almera 1.8
I have just replaced a set of these (4 years old and 27K) because one of them had a crevasse at the edge of the steel belts. I had the wheels off to change the brake fluid and checked the tyres over as you do. This one was at the 2 mm marker and I was toying with the idea of leaving them on for another month or two until I found this. It was about 1-1/2? in from the side wall, ¾? long and looked like a deep void rather than foreign object damage. The opening was also elliptical. I had been happily doing 70 MPH with this tyre!. Next trip was to the tyre shop and have now shod it with Dunlop SP30?s all round.
I not suggesting this is a common fault, but I?d advise checking B391?s when they are well worn.
Happy motoring.
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Hi,
Hope someone can help.
How do you diagnose a problem with the battery /alternator. I'm not sure if the problem is with my battery not holding the charge or if the alternator is not pumping enough charge in to the battery.
I have purchased an battery tester but I'm not sure what the readings should be. Can some one help a dimwit !!!
Basically - did a long run this weekend, when arrived at destination - the battery was dead. I did have the heater, lights, wipers etc on and the vehicle in question is a Renault Trafic Van.
Cheers
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Peter D is basically right on how to check this, but I'd expect rather higher voltages. A couple of newish cars I've checked recently give at least 14.4 volts with no electrical load, and maintain this even with headlights plus foglights on. Don't forget modern alternators are rated at 60A or more. Even my Minor with a dynamo holds 13. 6 - 13.8 v with the lights on.
These figures assume a well charged battery, and one problem you have is that a flat battery is going to be pulling a higher current than a charged one, and so depress the readings. It may be best to charge the battery overnight and then do the alternator voltage test. This wil also check the battery - if it won't start the car after a night on charge, then it's probably failed
JS
Last year I got a reasonable insurance policy on these grounds:
Car owned by me
Insured in my name, introductory bonus (I have my NCD with my own first car) with 19 year old daughter named as main driver, also me and my husband to drive
Daughter is full time student, living at home. Car is garaged at night
Area is (I imagine) quite reasonably priced on the postcode location.
Renewal is due but circumstances are changing
Daughter is moving out of home to central London (private accomodation, not Halls, but obviously not same sort of postcode value)
She is 20 now and will be a full time degree student, with possible part time employment (hopefully!)
I honestly don't have a clue who will actually be the main driver of the car, which is remaining here. It certainly wont cover too many miles.
It's really not worth letting her take it to London, given the excellent public transport on her doorstep - not to mention safety etc.
I'm not at all sure how often she will return home (if at all should she get enough work at weekends and holidays)
Obviously I have to inform the insurance company of these material facts - my question is how is it likely to affect the insurance and the premium?
Insurance is currently through Tesco, one of the only companies to let me name her as main driver of a car she doesn't own (and to give a fair quote when she was still a learner driver - she passed her test last November) There have been no claims.
Further complication is that second daughter is 17 next May, and is going to be chomping at the bit to learn to drive - insurance wont be due again until 1st September 2005, so this is likely to further complicate the matter. She will have professional lessons but will want to have time driving our car too before the insurance comes around again.
Has anyone else met this situation and have any advice or comments about what insurance companies are likely to say about it?
or, does anyone have any helpful thoughts/approach ideas, before I go in to it further?
Naturally, I'm looking for the best cost outcome whilst keeping everything strictly above board!
Thanks. Read more
Thanks for that info fatherjack, renewal's not due until September 1st, so I'll keep looking before I pay up.
Does anyone know whether there are certain brands or types of tyre renowned for quietness? My fattish-wheeled Audi A6 will be due for a tyre change soon and I would welcome suggestions.
Apologies if this is not a sufficiently \'technical\' matter. Read more
Yes, I agree the F1s are quieter and have outstanding grip, but wear out quickly.
I have the new Pirelli P7s now, these are very good, and I don't find them noisy, but many tests/reviews I have seen mark them down for noise.
To get a PDF of a tyre test email a blank message to.....
(replace the word AT and DOT with a @ and . (to stop spambots))
pdfATautobildDOTde
with ....
2003_10056
as the subject of the message to tell their server which article to send you. you will get a PDF by return email.
Just had my emission test done. Needed to re-register car tomorrow (no MOT as such here where I live, just the smoke test).
It's only 10 months old so it passed with CO% reading of 1.4 (pass is 3.5) and HC 323 ppm (pass is 600).
On getting my certificate I see there are different pass standards for different cities, for example Cebu and Davao are 6 for the CO and 7,500 for the HC(huh?). Outside in the smaller provincial areas it's 6.0 and 10,000! No wonder my face is black after riding for 20 km behind a Victory Liner bus which is barely visible in a cloud of black smoke. My lungs probably resemble the inside of a Pennsylvania coalmine.
Of course as ever the bleedin' obvious is never obvious. Get the old rolling coffins off the roads and stop importing 20 year old rusty buses which have spent their lives clanking around Beijing or Taipei for 2million km.. But then how many gov't officials and police officers own illegal bus lines as a sideline? It would never work.
OK slow learner me, now I get why the HC standard is so high.......
/exits stage left coughing...
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Hello
Can anyone shed any light on a sick Escort Turbo Diesel. Last Wednesday the engine lost power / cut out whilst leaving a car park. Much cranking (and drumming of fingers on steering wheels from other car drivers) got it going again and I drove it home. Now (parked pointing uphill) the engine will start (after a lot of cranking) but stops practically straight away (there is half a tank of fuel). I tried pumping the little button above the fuel filter (I think Richard W gave advice on this before) and instead of being hard, was pumpable for at least 10 seconds. Does this mean there is an air leak? Also if pressed hard a small fountain of fuel sprayed out from between the button and the casing. This cannot be right surely? Will I have to replace the whole assembly and is it a DIY job i.e. I have no specialist bleeding equipment.
Thanks Kevin Read more
When you fit the new filter/pump assy.disconnect the fuel line from the filter to the pump at the injection pump and operate the priming pump till fuel comes out of the pipe,reconnect and start the engine-when the engine runs it will purge any remaining air thro' the return fuel line.
An update on my troublesome VW Polo, if anyone remembers some old threads regarding its electrical woes.
Background. Bought new, now 16 months old has had electrical problems from new resulting in 5 long stays in the garage, and 8 breakdowns. The problem was intermittent and hard to pinpoint but resulted in the battery draining down in a matter of hours. Various repairs were tried but none was successful.
When I finally lost all confidence in the vehicle I contacted VW customer services who dismissed my complaint as not severe enough to warrant them taking action.
Then I discovered I had access to a solicitor through my home contents insurance - an idea I picked up on here and threatened legal action against the retailer under the Sale of Goods Act 1979 and the Sale and Supply of Goods to Consumers Regulations 2002. They seemed to realise their responsibilities and I'm pleased to say that we settled for a partial refund of 85% of the full purchase price, which I thought was an excellent result.
Lessons learned
1. Manufacturers customer services departments are there for their benefit, not yours. VW's sole aim was to procrastinate and fob me off. They have no power, and you have no contract with them, so don't bother with them.
2. Your legal rights are very strong. If the product has a fault which you can prove, you hold all the cards. If the garage doesn't repair it successfully at the first attempt it is not 'Fit for Purpose' and you can enforce your rights to a replacement or a full or partial refund.
3. Time is on your side. A full-on Rejection may have to take place within a 'reasonable' time, but your rights under the legislation above last 6 years. My initial complaint was made 15 months after I bought the car. If you sue for a partial refund and can prove the car has been faulty, then dollars to doughnuts the retailer will settle to avoid going to court.
During this process I gleaned loads of info from this site, so thanks to you all, and in particular HJ. I have also amassed quite a bit of experience of the various legal issues involved, so if anyone's in a similar situation please feel free to ask any questions and I'll help if I can.
Now I have all the fun of buying a new car again?.
CF.
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otherwise we would all be no-wheels or no-dosh or in-between.
Interesting image you present...... ;o)
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Definateley agree with big cat on this one. A classic piece of poor VW design,and a very common fault as the car ages. Remedy as stated above is spot on.