About 1 year ago my 2002 Golf V5 (170ps) developed an engine rattle at about 2000 rpm followed, several months later, by pinking and poor engine performance. The engine management light came on and the local VW dealer eventually replaced both lambda probes which eliminated the pinking and restored performance, but the rattle remained and its cause could not be found.
Several months ago the pinking and impaired performance returned. After several visits to the garage the cause of the engine rattle was finally tracked down to a faulty device that was supposed to alter the position of the inlet manifold depending on rpm. This was duly replaced and the car now drives better than it ever did before and the mpg has improved by up to 10%.

Does anyone know whether the faulty inlet manifold could have been the cause of the original lambda probe failures and whether any latent engine damage (which will probably show up just after the 3 year warranty expires!) could have been caused by driving for over 10000 miles with this undiagnosed fault? Forewarned is forearmed!

{post amended to make use of drop down menus that weren't available at the time first composed.} Read more

my local air conditioner agent recently diagnosed a leak from my \'97 A6 2.4 auto climate control compressor. needless to say he recommends replacement at cost around $800inc vat.

in previous forum discussion where the compressor failed it was mentioned that it would be a good idea to replace the accummulator and orifice tube not to mention flushing the whole system but that was a compressor that was making noise rather than leaking like mine. does this mean that i should get away with just replacing the compressor only?

any advice is appreciated.



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This was posted by Rob K in www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=2&t=23...4

My thanks to Rob for this extremely well presented view from the Trucker's cab. .

I'm a 44 tonne artic driver and do tramping work all over the UK on container work.

Firstly, the reply from the car driver arguing the points made by "Ice Man" rattled me enough to have me contribute my quids' worth.

It is clear from your replies that have no idea whatsoever of what it's like to drive an artic.

A few points:

1) Speed limiters:

With a few exceptions, the vast majority of artics have speed limiters fitted which are limited to 90kmh (56mph). However, there is a little bit of variance depending on who's set it and some trucks will do perhaps as much as 58mph, some only say 54mph but we're all roughly travelling at the same speed. Inevitably, if you happen to be the driver of one of those which has what's known as a "good limiter" (ie. 57/58mph) then you'll catch up with the truck in front eventually.

Now you've said yourself that it's no fun whatsoever being stuck behind something you can't see round in your car and funnily enough, us truckers feel exactly the same and want to get round whatever is obscuring our view. It's easy for you to say "well what are going to do with the few seconds you save?" but would you sit behind another truck for a considerable length of time that was going slower than your desired speed? I'll answer that for you - no.

Right, so the right indicator goes on and we put out (see later) but because of the limiter it's rare that we'll pull past the other truck at more than 1-2mph. Yes we would like to accelerate up to 70mph, get past and pull back in but unfortunately we can't because of the limiter. Your comments about "after you've pulled back in you accelerate away no problem" or words to that effect is just your imagination I can assure you.

2) Slipstreaming the truck in front:

Okay, get this into your head : If we pulled out to overtake the truck in front once we had reached the "keeping a 2 second minimum gap from the vehicle in front" as dictated by the Highway Code then what it would result in is the overtaking truck hogging the middle/outside lane for roughly 10 times the length of time and distance you see them doing on the motorways today.

Generally speaking, all us truckers drive in the same way and if a hazard appears ahead that the truck behind can't see then the leading truck will give enough warning by using indicators/hazards/dabbing of brake pedal to alert the following trucker to ease off in anticipation of a hazard or follow suit of changing lane etc. If you're following any other vehicle that isn't a truck then you've no idea what they could do or what their intentions are.

3) Pulling out to overtake.

I'm not a driver who does the signal-maneouvre thing at exactly the same time. Depending on how heavy and fast the traffic is, I will indicate when there's a gap and move out when it's safe to do so. There are a number of different opinions of one's interpretation of "safe" and whilst I consider myself to be a good, considerate and safe driver there are times when I know the manouevre I make isn't as safely made as it should be but in my defence I feel that making it when I did actually kept the traffic flow flowing whereas I would have hampered it if I would have performed the maneouvre safely.

I won't pull out into fast moving traffic IF both the middle and outer lanes are both quite heavy with traffic. However, a big gripe for us truckers is when the outside lane is empty and the Rover/Pug 106 driver is about to pass you doing 60mph in the middle lane, you indicate and they won't move over. THAT is inconsiderate and bad driving. Fair enough, if the traffic is heavy and there's nowhere for them to go then I don't expect them to slow down/move over JUST to let ME out but I will leave my indicator flashing, indicating my intention/desire to pull out.

What most non-truck drivers don't realise and understand is that if a fully-laden truck on the slightest uphill incline indicates to pull out round the vehicle in front and you don't let it, you are doing yourself no favours at all and shooting yourself in the foot. How do I come to that conclusion you're wondering? Well unfortunately most bosses don't give us a nice V8 Scania 164 580hp which will have no problems accelerating like a car up a hill and we are given trucks which will perform acceptably at half weight but really need working to keep the speed up at full weight.

Momentum is what it's all about. If you let that truck pull out - who will usually have indicated in good time for you to easily adjust your speed/get out of the way - then the flow of the traffic continues as normal because the trucker has been able to pull out without coming off the gas and losing that precious momentum. It's a very fine art being able to keep the needle at exactly the right position on the rev counter in the right gear to achieve that premium torque and pulling power. If you drop out of that by having to let off the gas and change down because the inconsiderate car driver couldn't be a***d pressing his accelerator pedal a millimetre to get out of the way then before you know what's happened, the truck's now down to 40mph and all the trucks behind him/her are all indicating to pull out round it thus slowing even more people down and hogging more lanes. Now do you understand!?

A lot of truckers are bad drivers - I see it from them too which really lets the side down considering the rigorous class II and class I tests you're put through to ensure we are professional drivers but (no sucking up to the truckers just because I'm trucker) I think the majority car and van drivers really are inconsiderate/dangerous drivers.

Personally I blame the utter ease of the normal driving test which is an absolute joke. You don't get taught to drive; you get taught to pass your test. Roll on when the day comes when the normal driving test is as hard as the class I one is. That would soon sort the country-wide congestion problem!

4) Car/van driver bad habits (where do you begin...?) :

i) Sliproads on :

Okay, let's clear one major point up before we start. The short broken lines at the end of the sliproad on mean "give way to vehicles already on the main carriageway" and "adjust your speed to merge WITHOUT causing anyone already on the main carriageway to adjust THEIR speed to match YOURS".

This very very rarely happens. Car and van drivers come hell for leather down the sliproad and either speed up and use every millimetre of the sliproad and just manage to squeeze out in front of us as the sliproad ends or do 1mph more than us alongside us on the sliproad and expect us to move over to let you out. Err no. I used to do this, being the considerate and courteous driver that I am but 9 times out of 10 either 1 of 2 things will happen. 1) The driver who I've moved over for sits alongside me in the inside lane and I'm now in the middle lane having being nice and moved over to let you out and matches my speed wondering why I'm not accelerating past you and pulling back in. Obviously I can't because of the limiter. 2) The driver I've moved over for accelerates up my nearside giving me no acknowledgement of thanks for moving over and thus leaving me stranded in the middle lane trying to see in my nearside blind-spot looking for any other fools that have pulled out before I move back over again.

The courteous thing to do if another vehicle moves over to let you out is to pull out and keep your speed down to approx 5mph less than the vehicle that's moved over and allow them to move back over. Is it too much to ask? I've got so sick of seeing it now that I don't move over. I get horns blasted at me because cars and vans come to the end of the sliproad alongside me expecting ME to adjust my speed to let them out. No no no. Your giveway : You wait.

Sadly, this also applies to a lot of truckers whom I will move over for EXPECTING them to know how the courtesy thing works and do same, allowing you to move back over. Most truckers do in all fairness.

ii) Sliproads off :

DO NOT TRY TO BARGE YOUR WAY INTO A NON-EXISTANT GAP IN FRONT OF US WHEN YOU'RE AT My thanks again to Rob K

No Dosh - Backroom Moderator
mailto:moderators@honestjohn.co.uk
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Daughter has been complaining about crashing and bashing noise from rear suspension to my Fiat, particularly offside. As it has now reached the point where turning the stereo doesn't work I decided to have a look tonight, suspecting the swinging arm bushes (already done once).
What I found was that the nearside suspension bump stop (the shaped block of rubber fitted inside the coil spring, which should cushion the shock if the suspension is fully compressed) had come out of the cone which should hold it, and was being compressed against the cone sideways when the suspension was compressed. The thin metal cone was damaged,and new parts appear necessary.
I suspect enthusiastic driving over speed bumps.
Anyone done this job. Can you get the bump stop and cone separately, or is the cone part of the sub frame. Any idea of prices?
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The website Motorlogix appear to give very good prices (including PX) on new vehicles sourced from UK dealers.
Before I consider parting with any cash, has anyone used them?
There seems to be little or no comment on the web that I can find.


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