August 2003

Daz

Hi, having taken my car to be inspected for it's faulty air con unit(bolt had snapped off) causing a new non air con fan belt to be fitted I was faced with another problem.

On lifting the bonnet, the oil cap had come loose and the top of the engine block covered in oil. The chap managed to re-seal the cap and it is now fine but he told me as he stated at the time that it was because the engine was fighting aganst the auto box (which he previously said was knackered).

When I first collected the car from him there were several auto box problems for a couple of weeks when revved medium to hard and I then had to resort to D1,2,3 etc.

He did a quick check by turning on the sports mode and then the weather button next to gear shifter and told me the auto box was not switched on as the TC light would have come on briefly if it was.

When he fixes the aircon he said he'd atke another look at the box. He has a new £7k piece of kit which plugs into the ecu giving fault descriptions as well as codes. As far as I can tell the auto box seems to be operating ok, altho it did clunk a little when not used for a week to start with between changes.

I'd be grateful if anyone could shed any light on or ideas on this. I have been to Vauxhall and they couldn't decipher the original fault codes!!

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aliveankikin

Hi, Are you still having problems with your autobox or have you found a cure. I seem to be having the same problems.

flatfour

Mnay leasing companies are now telling leasees to take their cars to AA service centres after the 60k 3 year warranty is up.

My local garage tells me they are unable to service my Saab 9-3 properly as they don't have the code book that translates what the plug in computer tells them.

Has anyone had experience of AA service centres and do they have the ability to reset all the computer gubbins? Read more

Marc

When I had a Mercedes 190E I used to get it serviced first by Halfords then the AA (when Halfords sold the servicing business).

I used them in two different towns and the service was always first rate and very competitive compared to so called specialist garages and of course MB franchises.

Stork

I recently took my 2002 Polo (1.2 E 65) to France on holiday. Before going, I asked my VW dealer about headlamp converters (the handbook says consult your dealer). They duly ordered me a conversion kit (about £10) and fitted it (about £15). The kit turns out to be two small strips of adhesive tape, and apparently an adjustment to the lights was also necessary. They now tell me that I need to have the lights re-adjusted back for UK use.

Obviously I'm not happy at having to shell out some £25 each way (£50 total) for every foreign trip. With my old (1984) Polo, it was a simple matter of black insulating tape.

For the future, despite my requests for information, the dealer has not given any clear instructions as to whether and how I can carry out the adjustment myself.

Does anyone know how to do this for the 2002 Polo? Am I stuck with having to go to the dealer every time? Or with using some random black tape and taking a risk (including the risk of invalidating my insurance, I expect)?
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Stork

VW dealer told me it's not a DIY job as you have to use a headlamp aligner.

Not satisfied with this, I contacted VW UK head office. They say that they 'recommend' the use of their own kit, and that it is fitted by a dealer, but that I could just buy a conversion kit from, e.g., Halfords, and follow the instructions in there.

John D

My MK4 Golf 1.6 has an unstable idle. It is at its worst when trying to fast-idle at 1,200rpm – it cycles between 1,000 and 2,000 revs with the throttle pedal “kicking” each time the revs reach 2,000.

I suspect the idle control valve may be faulty. Does anyone have any suggestions please?

The car is a 2000 W and has done 40,000 miles. It is an Auto.
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John D

Stop-Press latest! The car became undriveable – it wouldn’t run below 1,400rpm and then very lumpily.

The inlet manifold was full of oil, so I took it off and washed it in petrol.
The plugs were due for changing, so I fitted a new set.

On re-assembly the car ran perfectly, with the idle rock-steady at 800rpm.

My conclusion is that the oil in its bronchial tubes caused the symptoms. The jury is still out over whether overfilling was the root cause, or if I will get a recurrence.

Incidentally, I tried to read the fault codes by linking pins 5 & 6 of the diagnostic connector. Unlike my Dad’s Vectra, there is no light on the dash with which to read the codes. Can anybody tell me how to do it please?

With thanks again to Honest John and contributors.

John D

Ben79

Is it my imagination, but did diesel used to be cheaper than petrol in summer and slightly more expensive in winter when people bought heating oil?

I was looking forward to cheaper fuel in summer.

Oh well.
On my 3rd Citroen. Saxo, Xsara, C5. Read more

Cliff Pope

I think long ago diesel was much cheaper than petrol all the year round, because the tax used to be much lower. Now it is so much more popular in cars they have put the tax up. Watch the tax go up on LPG if it really catches on.

MrWibble

Do any Backroomers run / have experience of the A8 or S8 ? Reliability ? Alternative larger saloons to make a positive yet low-key statement to clients ?

MrW

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GS

Hawkeye,
The A8 in \"Ronin\" is spectacular however the quattro system was disconnected to achieve the final driving scenes - with 4wd in place the action was not dramatic enough. Undramatic, comfort, understated and traction in all weather conditions - that is why any A8 is so special.

Steve S

My car is up for change and after two problem free Volvos I fancy a change and was thinking of an Audi A4 cab.

The reviews wax lyrical, but the customer reviews and forums suggest a lot of problems (particularly with A4 coils and engine management systems). This surprised me as I thought Audi build quality was top notch.

Before I go test driving and risk heart overuling head - has anyone got any experience, good or bad, of the A4 petrols? Read more

Steve S

Decision made.

I've gone for the 3 litre non quattro with black everything (the quattro takes too much off the performance) and I'm no racer so the grip of the two wheel drive is enough.

I've also ditched the "sports suspension" - the std is already firm enough and I wish to keep my fillings!

Thanks to those who replied. Can't wait to get my hands on it.

frontyman

I am about to buy a 1983 VW Transporter (T3) campervan (1970cc air cooled) anybody got any suggestions for insurance companies?

I am 40, clean liscence, max no claims. Read more

Dwight Van Driver

Feast your eyes at

tinyurl.com/ld2d

Need I say more?

DVD

Burnout2

Does anyone know when Honda specify a cam-belt change for a 2000-year 2.0i Accord? For some reason, it isn't stated on the service schedule (possibly because it's a "x years/y miles, or whichever comes first" scenario).

If the change happens to coincide with a major service then I will be keen to dispose of the car before the approx. £600 bill comes my way!

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NitroBurner

Find a good independant garage Burnout. That's a ridiculous amount for a cam-belt change...

techvac

Need your help on this one, need something fast and exciting for £3000?

I quite fancy a Calibra Turbo 4x4, but worried about transmission problems. But I need some more ideas before I commit.

Thanks for any help given. Read more

Monaro

I would say go for the Civic too. Or maybe an Accord 2.3 non type-R. A friend has one and is very impressed - Q-car though.
Paul C