July 2003
any ideas???. Car has been lying for a while. Took battery out as a "jump start" didn't work. Fuly charged battery with a charger. Refitted, but still not enough power. Used jump leads and got car started. Took for a run and turned off and on a few times. Went back to car today and nothing. Battery flat. Nothing was left on. All cells are OK. Battery gone??? Read more
Hi everyone,
Ive just purchased a MK2 which is losing a lot of water from the cooling system. I filled the plastic bottle up to the 'minimum' level and within a couple of days the water level is down to roughly one inch off the bottom of the bottle.
I have checked the oil filler cap for mayo or white residue but it looks fine, although the engine bay has a steamy sort of smell after a run which leads me to think that maybe one of the hoses is letting go?
Any ideas anyone?
Thanks, Barg. Read more
Could be time to go the Organic route and use an egg!
I have a '99 Ford Galaxy with a TUV-approved bodykit and wheels fitted.
The wheels are now 8.5"x18", and take 235/40x18 tyres. However, the front tyres only ever last me 10,000 miles at most, and they ALWAYS wear through on the inside edges of the tyres. I've had the tracking checked fairly recently (because of this symptom) and it's spot-on. Could the problem be something to do with camber/castor angles (where the tyre rolls onto its inside edge as the steering is turned) or is it something else? Who would I go the see about getting them checked and adjusted RELIABLY (not your local Kwik-Fit etc.)?
Cheers,
Bruce Read more
Bruce
As the suspension on most cars compresses it moves the wheels further into (or towards) negative camber - ie the top of the wheels move inwards. This helps grip on corners. With the lowered suspension your car is regularly running with a greater than normal negative camber, and this could be causing the extra wear on the inside of the tyres. I reckon that's what Dave is getting at.
Regrettably, camber isn't easily adjustable like toe in.
Regards
John S
Don't try this at home!
uk.news.yahoo.com/030711/80/e41u8.html
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I used to live in Lima
I've been there a few times - ISTR that the firewater sold in bottles cured everything except hangovers (caused them!)
Martin
Just been sent a spam e-mail advertising this fantastic gadget. You clip it on to your fuel line and it reduces fuel consumption by 27%, emissions by 43% and increases torque! Probably makes tea and receives faxes too I shouldn\'t wonder.
www.bestchoicefuel.org/default.asp? axel=4090
Is this the total scam I think it is or has motoring science moved on in leaps and bounds?
A. Read more
A word of warning: the 'axel=4090' bit at the end of the URL could easily be a unique identifier, either for the sender or the recipient. The URL works without it.
By clicking on the link it's quite possible that you've confirmed to the sender of the spam that it's been received, or confirmed to the owner of the web site that the person spamming on their behalf is doing an effective job.
A friend has a 1992 1.0L Uno. The car has been overheating. Had a quick look and after topping up the coolant, noticed a leak from a hose going into the coolant pump. Doesn't look as though there is a jubilee clip or anything.Just the hose straight in. The water is also very brown with rust. Does the hose have to be replaced or is there another way of stopping the leak Read more
The removal is easy, undo:
a jubilee clip at the far end of the pipe (rubber hose to the bottom of the radiator).
one (maybe 10mm AF) bolt, location described by Pete.
pull the metal pipe out of the rear of the pump.
get soaked in antifreeze.
Refitting is a bit more difficult* - it needs a good shove into the pump, then there's the bolt to refit. As per my previous post, make sure the bracket hole position is the same, otherwise you can't locate the bolt: it looks like the pipe isn't in quite far enough.. you can only push it in so far.
Take care with bleeding the system afterwards.
There are bleed screws on the top lefthand end of the radiator, and also _in_ one of the hoses from the heater (behind the throttle body).
To get the heater bled you might need to rev the engine up a bit to get enough pressure to fill the heater matrix.
The bleed is in the return.
You might want to fill it with water if you just do the "O" ring, to see if you've fixed it.
If you have, partially drain and top up with a 2 or 3 of litres of neat antifreeze, and the balance in water for something approaching a 50% mix.
My money's still on the pipe being corroded :-(
Regards
John H
* due to the location of the catalyser on my particular "car" I ended up taking the oil filter off to improve access. There weren't many with the cat. in the downpipe though, most are under the car.
I am still delighted with the V70 2.4T that I purchased new in March. On a recent drive to the Czech Republic and back, four up with a boot load of kit, it would pull hard out of uphill hairpins from low RPM that a modern turbodiesel would shudder at, or spin effortlessly up to high revs when the mood took. I did however find two characteristics I have never experienced in any previous car, which I share here:
1) The amount of acceleration available when laden remains prodigious at all times, but is strongest when a quick gear change down is followed instantly by full throttle, rather than by changing down in ample time, waiting a few seconds for the opportunity to go, and then giving full throttle. This is not just subjective, and when in second gear especially, the additional torque is easily felt.
2) I like to change gear as near to 'chauffeur smooth' as I can get, even when changing up at high revs from full throttle. This obviously entails a finely judged, very brief, feathering of the throttle, rather than simply snapping it closed as the clutch pedal is depressed. When doing this in the Volvo however, I sometimes get a considerable rush of power for a split second as I come OFF the throttle at high revs (5500-6000).
I'm guessing that both of these characteristics stem largely from the fact that a computer is controlling turbo boost as well as a stepper motor that opens the throttle, instead of my foot doing it directly.
Purely out of interest, have any Backroomers noticed similar oddities, whether Volvo or not?
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i have a A4 1.8T , i find this is the only car that does not have a "best" gear for over taking. With max torque from 1950 to over 4500 rpm rapid overtaking can be achieved provided revs are around 2500. This usually involves a very short full throttle then lift off to normal cruise position, as you mention the car seems to still be accelerating after lift off, i put this down to the turbo and perhaps the flywheel? but am only guessing. Its a very relaxing car to drive at 30 or 40mph (4th & 5th gear)
My Xantia 1.9TD (1997) has suddenly pumped the contents of the sump into the cooling system such that black oil has erupted through the coolant filler cap (filler cap screwed fully in place)and is now dripping everywhere. Is this likely to be a cylinder head gasket blow or are there other possibilities?
Philippio Read more
Hi all, re. oil in rad.....xantia or in my case '95 peugeot 405 1.9 td. I've got similar problems and in desperation keyed in 'oil in rad' on the net and it came up with your site!
To start with there was not too much oil but it was not 'yogurty', the rad wasn't pressurising , no overheating and the heater was still working.This didn't feel like a head gasket to me so I thought of the oil cooler and have taken a chance on a s/hand one. I managed to fit it, I've pushed gallons of soapy water through the rad. and after chucking in 2 radflushes I'm running it around locally hoping it will wash through.I'm expecting to have to drain and fill it 2 or 3 times and all I can do is keep my fingers crossed. As I expect you know these motors are prone to air locks and this is now affecting the heater and worryingly the temp.gauge doesn't work. It's a bit dodgy but I don't see the point of trying to sort this out until I've got the oil out.
I'll give it a few days and let you know. Graham
Bought a mk4 golf gti recentely. Its a 98 with AC and its never had an AC service. Ive also noticed that its probably not as cold as quickly as it should be
I saw a thread earlier about getting the gas topped up and checking for leaks, but i want to get it serviced to put the stamp in the book as well.
Thing is i loathe main dealers, and would prefer to go to halfords or somewhere like that, but how does the 2nd hand car market view a non dealer stamp ???
Also, want to get the oil changed as i had no idea what oil was in it, and there was an unopened litre of 10/40 which i have topped it up with, but i want to put a decent oil in and then i can continue to use that. Whats the best without going too overboard, btw its the 1.8 20v non turbo (125bhp)
Ta
Andy Read more
I too have a Mk IV Golf - TDI SE Auto
I fell out with the main dealer (Wayside)towarsd the end of warranty and have been using a VW independent specialist ever since Mark Tempest in Wewyn Garden City). He is excellent and cheaper. He serviced my aircom for £80 when vehicle was 4 years old and reported that 50% of the refrigerant had been lost - so do not leave servicing forever else the compressor will get damaged
Give mark a ring if you are in the vicinity (01707 392392) and you won't be disappointed.
as promised, this is my reminder to those interested
watch ch. Five at 8pm on Friday 11 July 2003
- re. car sales techniques UK vs USA Read more
this is how www.five.tv describe the programme:
" Time - 20:00 - 21:00 (1 hour long)
When - Friday 11th July on Five
Documentary in which a slick Las Vegas used-car salesman crosses the Atlantic to see if he can work his charms in a small Staffordshire showroom. In Vegas, he is a minor celebrity with a cable channel, a rap album and an abundance of gimmicks. But he soon realises these carry very little sway in this most English of showrooms.
(Stereo, Subtitles) "
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Get the battery tested off the car?
If it's an old battery the capacity will be down.
They can also flatten themselves with the sludge in the bottom, which used to be on the plates.. there was a thread here recently about battery life.