November 2001

Rob Govier

Anyone got any ideas on workshop manual for a Vauxhall Monterey (rebadged Trooper)? Any owners clubs out here? Maybe they never break, so never need repairing...

Main dealer prices are £200/book and there are four books. (Yes, really!).

Haynes do a book for the mk1, but not my model.

Anyone any experience of snags with this vehicle?

rg Read more

Alwyn

The Growler will like this, I think.

E type jags? You won't find them here but try this site for some good clean humour and music. Worth the wait. Best version of YMCA I have heard this week.

www.eakles.com

Roll down to YMCA tragedy, near the bottom of the icon list.

Enjoy Read more

Alwyn

I see what you mean. Framley here I come.

Andrew

Does coolant "find its own level" in an expansion bottle or should it be within recommended levels given by the manufacturer? And if it does find its own level how critical should this be?

The car is my Citroen BX TGD 1990 (written of before). Since the cylinder head has been replaced with a skimmed unit, the coolant level has been of this order:
last Saturday picked up car - noticed trickle of coolant thru filler hole after driving home.
Sunday still trickling out. Decided to check coolant level each am when engine cold
Monday; column of coolant measured 29 cm (manufacturer recommends 25 to 30 cm) coolant still trickling out during use.
Tuesday; column measured 34.5 cm.coolant still trickling out during use.
Wednesday; column 38.5cm (almost to base filler cap)coolant ceased trickling out
Thursday - today coolant level 17.5cm - brand new filler cap fitted

I've had conversations with the garage engineer who did the work. He claims the head was ok and the coolant system was pressure tested and kept its pressure - hence no leaks. Further that the coolant will find its own level - often quite a lot lower than the 25 - 30 cm mentioned in the Haynes manual. He suggested to try a new filler cap which I have just done.

Is there substance in what he says - or do I have to wait until the low level coolant warning light comes on? Read more

Andrew

Thanks to all who've come back on this - and David don't throw your "spare BX" away just yet. Awoke this am @3:45 (!!!) and pottered out with torch to remove filler cap and to measure coolant in expansion bottle - yes it is a "strapped to side of radiator version" and yes anxiety neurosis is setting in! Maybe too early yet, but the level was 18.5cm by the oil dipstick (yesterday was its lowest since the repair @17.5cm). If it remains stable over next week I shall assume the system has settled down and top up to the 30cm level. Fingers and much else of my anatomy crossed!

David Moore

I do pizza delivery so obviously the clutch has a hard time. Is it safe to pop the gearbox into neutral when approaching the lights without promoting further gearbox wear? Read more

KB

The IAM priciple I referred to suggests being in the right gear at the right time. If this means approaching (say) red lights in 4th and not 5th then so be it. What they're saying is, it's not necessary to work your way from 5 - 4 - 3 - 2 - 1 every time, if you know you're going to stop. As I said, it's a regular argument, and neither way is 'dangerous' See the book 'Roadcraft '... It used to be what they based Police driving instuction on. Don't know about present day situation. It uses a "System of car control".......C M S B G A (Remembered by the acronym Can My Safety Be Given Away?) which means - Course, Mirror, Signal, Brake, Gear, Accelerate. It's used to negotiate every single hazard or situation which can be encountered while driving.

Read the book and see if you agree. Rgds KB

Emma

when i put my manual into reverse, it doesn't always go in. if i try and drive on it, it makes the most horrible noise until i take it out, lift the clutch, and start again. sometimes it takes five or six tries. is this normal behaviour??!?!! it's happened ever since i have had it. one of my passengers said that the gearlever had to go back so far to be in gear it looked like you had broken its neck! any ideas? please don't say new gearbox! :-D

separate point - my peugeot 106 (no power steering) has a larger turning circle than a double decker bus. are they all awkward to manoeuvre or am i just lucky?!

luv
em. Read more

Keith

I don't think Emma's problem is due to a 'minor' inherent problem which is presumably there from new. On my son's AX, the fault developed over a short period of time at 34000 miles and, clearly, something had happened to produce the fault.

On another point, Emma mentioned in a later post that her car jumps out of first gear. Pity she didn't mention that originally although I suppose it could be due to the gear not being engaged fully. I still think it's worth changing the gearbox oil as it may help, or even cure the gear selection problem as it did for me.

Keith

Dave N

Is it fair that 'Driven' test 2 of the vehicles off-road with proper mud tyres, and claim they're the best at pulling an Astra along, whilst the other, the Maverick, ran on road tyres. Then, for the road test, they all had road tyres fitted.

Surely they should explain that this is the case, or fit them all with similar spec tyres? Read more

John Slaughter

Just watched it on tape. No, I couldn't figure the scoring either. Frankly I didn't want any of them after that - damn all manoeverability, and hopeless on the speed bumps. I'd have been intrigued to see them subject to the usual high speed slalom test. I wonder why they didn't???

As for JP, he had a genuine smile on his face, so I reckon that Aston must be pretty good, but would you take your eyes off the road at that speed? Absolutely barking! No wonder he won the championship!

Regards

JS

Emma

Are CVTs well-known for being unreliable/ badly made/ faulty/ dodgy or is the fact that my mother's Volvo 440 CVT died after 16,000 miles just an unlucky fluke?
luv
em. Read more

Mark (Brazil)

No, "Found" in Rio again.

Randolph Lee

I found this while lookimg into tyre life.
www.nitronics.com/research.htm
On my 1989 Range Rover Vogue (US Spec 3.6L with all options) They rot before they wear out at 5000 miles a year about 1/3 of that in low range in very soft sand on the beach)

I am constantly using dressing on the outside but this site seems to say thay rot from the inside out...

Any comments?
~R Read more

Randolph Lee

With you On Jet Tyres as I am an ex ATP (though I think the dryness is a major factor as well) but on light aircraft esp ones that run from grass fields the do rot first And Even if coated on the outside with anti rot dressing compound they seem to rot from the inside when filled with air and I see the same thing on the tyres on my Range Rover

from the web page again As I have had Private email saying that it could not be reached...
*********************
THE ENEMY - OXIDATION

Causing the deterioration are oxygen molecules contained in the inflating air which is a mixture of gases - nitrogen 78%, oxygen 21%, argon 0.9%, and miscellaneous O.1%. Tires are designed to be protected from this deterioration by their liners which are supposed to keep air from percolating through them into the tire body, which they never do, and by chemicals called antioxidants or age resisters whose job is to intercept and neutralize any invading oxygen - which they do until they are themselves used up, which occurs too soon after a tire enters into service.

So the deterioration spreads. It starts within the tire interior and moves outward. it first invades and consumes the tire liner. It then ravages the insulation rubber adjacent the liner. It marches inexorably outward - because of the pressure differential of the tire inflation on the inside and the atmospheric pressure on the outside. As the decay moves ever outward - the oxygen molecules react chemically with the unsaturated double valence bonds present in all rubbers, causing the rubber molecules to lose their strength and their elasticity, so that they no longer act as rubbers, but instead take on the characteristics of a non rigid plastic. The decay is constantly being fueled by the fresh all too often moist air being injected into the air chamber to maintain the desired inflation pressure.

How do you get a truck tire to go a million miles? It's simple. TAKE THE OXYGEN OUT OF THE AIR!

TRUCK TIRE TESTS

A total of 175 truck tires were tested until they were worn down to the tread wear indicators (TWI). About 125 of these tires wore out without failing at mileages ranging from 125,000 to 225,000. About 50 of the tires failed physically at varying mileages generally on the low side. All the tires had been carefully monitored, measured for tread loss etc., and inspected at 10,000 mile intervals, a lot of them at 2000 to 3000 mile intervals. Tire sizes were mostly 11R24.5 & 11-24.5 with a very few 10R20 and 10-20's. About half of the tires had operated over the eastern part of the United States while the other half had run mostly in the southwestern part of the U.S.

When the tires were removed from service small samples of tread rubber were taken from the shoulders of the unfailed tires and from the actual failed areas of the destructed tires. These specimens were then subjected to the electron microprobe examination that has been described previously. The examination was specifically directed at determining oxygen and sulfur levels which was best accomplished by using IOKV (10000 electron volts) electron beam And an exposure of 30 seconds.

Both of the figures tell the same story. When a tire lives to wear out, the oxygen slowly migrates and permeates its way into and through the tire cord body and finally into the under tread and then into the tread itself. It takes a long time for an appreciable amount of oxygen to reach the tread since most of the oxygen gets waylaid along the way by the liner, and then the cord arid cord insulation compound.

One reason that truck tires can run 250,000 miles with the original tread while passenger tires can only go 50 to 60,000 miles lies in the relative bulk of the 2 different tire bodies. The bulkier the body the longer it takes for the oxygen to work its way into the tread. Unfortunately the bulkier the body the higher is the heat buildup and the faster is the rate of oxidation of the available double bonds. Once the tire body is all oxidized the tire is dead no matter how much tread remains on it. The thinner the tire body the lower the running temperature and the slower the rate of oxidation with a correspondingly longer life.

Practically all tire engineers throughout this century attribute the gradual loss in tire strength to be the result of "fatigue" when in reality this "fatigue" is nothing more than a slow inexorable oxidation taking place at the available double bonds of the rubber molecules.

**************

Peter Eichenberger

Hi
I have a 1.6GLXi Skoda Octavia running on LPG which is 18 months - 20000 miles old.
Recently I noticed a film 92mm thick) of tan sludge forming under the oil cap. I haven't noticed this before.
There has been no apparent lose of coolant, the performance has not been suffering, the oil was clear when I changed it, there are no leaks around the engine block.
Where could the moisture be getting into the oil.
I do a daily 70 mile return run - motorway driving so it should be hot enough to get rid of condensation.
Should I forget about it or should Ihave the head gasket changed?

Thanks
Peter Read more

Diesel Dave

this film can form if you don't run the engine for very long - I know you do a long run evey day - but if you had only run the engine for a short while before looking at the oil cap you would see this film.

Ian

Hi,
I am considering looking for a Peugeot 405 diesel estate. I would be grateful for any advice in what to look out for, owner views and any common problems with this model.
Thanks, Ian. Read more

markymarkn

If you come across K*** RLU (metallic light blue) or M289 VAU (metallic green) they've been well looked after (while we had them), but they were used about once a year to tow a twin axle caravan.

No major problems with either, and when they left us they were in good condition.