July 2001
I have a similar sort of problem to the AX, Alternator quit, tried 2 2nd hand units, both quit after 15 mins or so. They were charging, but were putting out around 16v before they blew. I`ve now put in a new unit, and a new battery, am still getting a 16v reading at the battery. Figures are-
ignition off 14v, idle 14.5, Rev it a bit and I`m back to 15,9-16v. I then cut the engine before I burn out this one!
I have tried setting the alt. up with a separate battery, isolated from the rest of the car, and get a reading of 14,7v at the battery. This would suggest that the problem lies < somewhere> in the car-
Ideas anyone? Read more
Several weeks ago there was a thread about batteries going flat - I cant' remember the vehicle make, or the outcome but I thought this bit of info would be an interesting follow up.
A couple of weeks ago a pal of mine had the battery go flat on his wife's new Seicento after they'd left it to go on holiday - only one week. Checking with a multi meter he found that the current drain at the battery with everything switched off was 200mA. Based on this, the battery might well go flat in a week.
Doing a bit of investigation he found that removing the face from the face-off radio reduced this drain to 70mA - nearer the figure we would have expected. It seems unbelieveable that the front display panel of a radio would draw 130mA. What do the usual suspects think on this one? Read more
My new model Fiat Punto is the first car I have encountered for many years in which the radio does not go off when the ignition key is withdrawn. It seems it is supposed to turn itself off after 15 or 20 minutes if the driver forgets to do so. Maybe this facility is present in the Seicento and is faulty in this particular car.
This might sound like a silly question but in terms of using air con economically as well as looking after the system, is it better to keep it on all the time when needed in hot weather? Does switching it off then back on again every so often on a journey to keep fuel consumption down do it any harm? (I have read previous threads about fuel costs and air con and know you don't all agree on this one - and I also know air con should be used at least once a month throughout the year to keep the condensor? compressor? (whatever) happy.)
I would hazard a guess and say it's best to leave it on as the lesser of two evils but you know, just wondering.
Thanks. Read more
Darcy Kitchin wrote:
>
> John
> But it's a Renault so it'll dissapoint someone sooner or
> later ;-)
But a Twingo is so cheap as to be disposable!
I know we don't like large trucks and I know its american, but how different can it be ?
On my Truck, a Dodge Ram, it has a light on the dash which when illuminated shows the words "Check Engine".
Sadly the manual is in Spanish and designed for those people who won't. not ever. Therefore there is no recommendation, fault finding or anything else suggesting a course of action.
The dealer checked the engine and there is nothing wrong (that he can find). Also, apparantly its supposed to give him an error or fault code - but doesn't. The dealer also checked the computer itself, and it seems fine. I wouldn't say that it was an exhaustive check, but its a good as I'll get out here.
The engine runs fine. Absolutely no change at all, as far as I can tell. Perfomance the same, consumption, temperature, oil pressure, CD volume - all the same.
In the course of investigation it became apparant that if the battery is disconnected, even for a brief time, then the light stays off - usually for a week or so - then it comes back on.
Weirder still, sometimes it goes off by itself and stays off for a week or so.
Transition between lit and unlit can be when the engine is switched on, or it can be when I'm driving along doing nothing in particular.
There seems to be no consistency I can find.
I'd like a solution, but at the very least I'd like to disconnect the light so it stops irritating me.
Any helpful suggestions ? Including what that light should be telling me.
I am certainly not going to follow the dealer's recommendation which is to change the computer for no better reason/explanation than "porqué no, puede ser que suceda" delivered with a disinterested shrug and some mumbled comment about gringos. Even if it does succeed, its seems a damned expensive way of turning out a light.
M. Read more
Just another opinion ,
you say this fault light seems to come on in traffic , i think what you are getting is a lambda fault caused by the engine eating dirty traffic air we get a lot of these faults in volvos that are very sensitive to dirty air the lights pop on just by following a smoky lorry i say kill the light with the nearest hammer you can find
Please could I have some advice?
The car is 1994 Citroen AX diesel with 90K miles on it. A few days ago the battery light (comes on with the ignition and goes off when the alternator is charging) failed to light up when starting the car. The alternator had been making growling noises for weeks, in fact since the car went through some flood water a while back. After noticing the lack of battery light, I put a simple voltmeter on the battery; engine off 12.5 volts, during starting drops to 11.5 volts, tickover 12.5 volts, rev the engine to 2500 approx, and there's suddenly 14.5 volts. Moreover there's 14.5 volts when the engine revs fall back to tickover again. I blamed the aternator. Last week the alternator drive belt went, so, noticing some play at the alternator pulley (maybe why it threw the belt), I happily replaced alternator and belt. No growling now, but not charging at tickover either. So, I've spent a happy hour or two on Saturday pulling the instrument panel apart and yes, the battery bulb is not blown. Curses.
Is there another component that controls the battery light and charging? Anyone know where it is? What next?
All comments gratefully received. TIA. Read more
Many thanks to everyone. I'll test the light at the weekend to see if it works by Mike H's method and I'll check the earth again. This was last done in Feb when 2 glow plugs went at once and I had a general tidy up of earth leads.
I was talking cars to a client again today, and would welcome comments from the back
room.
The criteria are as follows:
An aging Vauxhall Cavalier (which has given extremely good service) is to be
replaced.
The budget would stretch to £5K but £3K would be better!
Annual mileage is about average, but is made up of a large volume of short journeys,
the rest is infrequent long runs mainly on motorway.
I guess from previous threads a non-turbo diesel is recommended, but which one? Read more
No problems at all that I am aware of Paul, with reference to short journeys and turbocharger trouble.
Just make sure the engine oil & filter is replaced at 5K intervals and you will have no problems
Be sure to use genuine filters and a decent quality engine oil
OK your comments noted...... so its a OCTAVIA, TOLEDO before the
BORA >>>
Now the technical question for you boys in the backroom >>>>> Do i buy
the petrol 1600 or the diesel 1900 tdi . Yes i know fuel consumption will
be much better with the diesel but what about longevity for the engine
which is the easiest to maintain considering 10 year lifespan and mileage
of probably 8-9 k per year , mainly in short bursts with occasional good
burst once a week. Im assuming that diesel is best for such conditions ?
Convince me.... !!!!!!!!!!!1
Regards.... Kenn. Read more
In 1999 Ford announced that it would be continuing Fiesta production at Dagenham and introducing a second vehicle, expected to be the Ka.
If Dagenham are to supply diesels, developed in conjunction with PSA, then hopefully the longterm employment prospects will be secured through cross-platform and cross-marque use of these second-generation diesels.
I have always wanted to own a Porsche and have found a 1969 modell 911E Targa for sale. As my knowlege of all things technical is fairly limited, I would like to hear the Backroom's opnions about this car.
What are the things that I should watch out for? What kind of running costs should I expect?
regards
Yasin Soofi
Oslo, Norway Read more
I have a '72 911E. Check out www.pelicanparts.com for the best 911 forum on the Internet. The guys there will see you right.
Make a considered purchase. A 67 will be SWB, many of the problems were ironed out with the '69 models, handling and so forth. Best of the classic shape are the '72 and '73 models. Steer clear of the later 2.7s.
Phil
Guys - my car makes a noise between 15-25 MPH that sounds as if the exhaust has a hole in it somewhere.
I've had the exhaust checked over several times, no problem. The reason I've been given is a vibration at low revs that sets up a resonance between the exhaust and the suspension.
So, is this the case, does anyone have a similar tale or is this all spin and no substance?
Cheers Read more
Dan,
I know you have sorted this now and the exhaust was the original......
Many exhausts end being fitted in short sections, often pattern parts and with the fitter having somedifficulty getting the inserted part to line up. For this reason many systems are left under stress not hanging equally on the rubbers.
A cure for resonance is to undo every clamp/joint and allow the whole system to settle into a natural evenly hanging position. Tighten up again and it could be loads better.
Easier said than done on an old system with seized joints though.
David
.....not as shiny as before.
I have just washed my new car (00W preowned Ford Fiesta Zetec in Radiant Red) for the second time in the month I have now owned the car and have now got myself a dilemma.
I had found a light scratch across the roof when I washed the car for the first time which I thought I'd sort out when I eventually polish the car for the first time (still very shiny).
I also found some damage on the upper grey plastic lip of the front bumper.
On washing the car for the second time last night the roof scratch became more apparent. The damage to the bumper lip became more obvious and now I have found light scratch marks on the nearside corner of the bonnet.
I made sure I was extremely careful in washing the car taking the advice I was given in my earlier thread (Simple but perplexing) and know I wasn't the cause of the damage, especially on the bumper.
I am now wondering whether I have any recourse with the dealer who sold me the car. The car was preowned and I fear that the dealer has painted (or should I say polished!) over a multitude of sins. I inspected the car closely on collection and none of these faults were apparent at that time.
Should I go back and have a word with them?
Or do I have to go our and buy some colour polish and grin and bear it? Read more
We can't be held responsible for every nick/scratch/ding/scrape that your car unfortunately suffers from the neglect of others! I quite often see shopping bags/handbags placed on the bonnets and roofs of neighbouring cars whilst madam retrieves her car keys....
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Adrian,
Now and again someone points to a site which gives an excellent detail on a specific topic.
www.traceengineering.com/technical/batteries/batte...l was such a site. I think we should all read it at least twice before posting any more on this subject.
I think the slightly excessive voltages I've recorded (about .3v over) would be due to the batteries not having been rested for the 6hrs plus as advised, they were all on cars that hed been run within the previous few hours and this time of year batteries are at their best.
Interestingly I have tested the voltage on my own car that hasn't been started for ten days and that is 12.62. Exactly the 90% charge figure.
All good stuff.
David