Mazda 6 (2008 – 2012) At A Glance
This is a tale of two cars. On the one hand we have the entry level Mazda 6 1.8S, coming in at a very reasonable £15,100 on the road. On the other, we have the BOSE audio, leather-trimmed 2.5SL at a considerably heavier £20,680.
Actually "heavier" is the wrong word. Because all new bigger, better Mazda 6s weigh in at an average 35 kilos lighter than the old car. As with the new Mazda 2, the company has stopped eating all the pies and is thinking along the same lines as a supermodel.
As well as more car at less weight it's also more streamlined. Little touches, including a gizmo that looks like a horses hoof in front of each of the front wheels, cut drag down to a very impressive Cd 0.27.
That makes it quieter and more fuel-efficient which in turn means it emits less CO2 so you pay less tax, whether you're a private motorist or a company driver. One of the factoids Mazda was keen to impress on us was that whereas the previous 1.8i meant you were taxed on a BIK of 24% of the car's list price, the new 1.8 comes in at 19%. And, though prices are slightly up (balanced by a lot more kit on each model), they reckon the average company driver will pay £20 a month less for more car, whether they go for the 1.8i or the 2.0 litre diesel.
Mazda 6 2008 Model Road Test
Mazda 6 2008 Wagon Road Test
Mazda 6 2.2 Diesel 2008 Road Test and Video
Mazda 6 2010 Facelift Road Test and Video
What do owners think of the Mazda 6 (2008 – 2012)? Check out our Owners' Reviews
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Real MPG average for a Mazda 6 (2008 – 2012)
Real MPG was created following thousands of readers telling us that their cars could not match the official figures.
Real MPG gives real world data from drivers like you to show how much fuel a vehicle really uses.
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Reviews for Mazda 6 (2008 – 2012)'s top 3 rivals
Ask Honest John
I only do short drives - can I take precautions to stop DPF issues with my Mazda 6?
"I've been reading some of the problems Mazda 6 owners have with DPFs. My Mazda 6 now has 93,000 miles on the clock, it had 90,000 when I bought it. I mostly do short runs (less than 15 miles). What should I look out for? Is there anything I can do before switching my engine off to stop DPF trouble in future?"
This is far from ideal use of a diesel with a DPF. Precautions you can take are to change the engine oil and filter every 7000 miles. Take the car on as many distance runs as you possibly can. Whenever you stop the car, open the driver's door. If you are aware of heat under the car, that is the DPF actively regenerating and you need to drive the car for another 5 - 10 miles to ensure regeneration is completed. if you don't, fuel injected into the engine to promote regeneration will sink into the sump oil, contaminating it. Check the cold engine oil level regularly, at least every week, and if you notice it starting to rise you need to get the oil and filter changed.
The DPF warning light is flashing on my Mazda 6 - does the particulate filter need cleaned or replaced?
"My Mazda 6 has a particulate filter warning light flashing, despite two hours on the motorway. The car has never done this in four years of ownership. It's done 99,000 miles. Does the DPF need cleaned or replaced?"
In that case, the likelihood is that the DPF has filled up with ash from burning off all the soot it has been burning for 99,000 miles. Two options. One is to have the DPF sent away to be chemically cleaned by the Ceramex process, which costs about £400 all-in. The other is to replace the DPF, which costs about £1,000.
Is the shift from diesel pushing up the price of petrol cars?
"I have seen two 2010 Mazda 6 Estate 2.0 petrol for sale for £9500 - £9750, with 19,000 and 29,000 miles. One is a private sale and the other is from a dealer. Most price guides give prices of around £7000. These models do not seem to come up for sale often. Is the price the beginning of a shift from diesel that might be pushing up prices? "
Possibly. There was a lot of trouble with DPF on this generation of Mazda 6 diesel, so the 2.0 litre petrol is the more reliable car.
What is wrong with the steering on my Mazda 6?
"I have a 2009 Mazda 6 2.2-litre diesel with 102,000 on the clock. I have come to notice that the steering is loose when going left but a little heavy when going right. Could this be due to tyre problems or could it be the electronic steering sensor. I have changed the wheels around but doesn't seem to be much difference. What else could it be?"
Did you change the wheels side to side or front to back? If side to side, first try switching the wheels front to back. If that doesn't fix it, then the steering angle sensor could need to be re-set (or could be damaged). Next on from that, the rack could be damaged with the same fault that occurs on Mondeos: see 14-4-2012 at http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/carbycar/ford/mondeo-iv-2007/?section=good/