My Godson has just got an Escort 1.1L. (he's 17) I thought that for Christmas i would give him some alloys with tyres. Does anyone know of wheels that fit an Escort other than XR3 wheels.
For instance the wheels from a G reg 5 series BMW fit perfectly on a new 3 series. Anyone with steel wheels who has a 3 series now knows where to get ultra cheap good looking wheels and tyres.
Do old 3 series BMW wheels for instance fit an Escort?
Any help appreciated.
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Richard
Before you do this, check that it won't affect his insurance, (the last thing you want to do for xmas it to invalidate his policy). Otherwise, I can't help, sorry.
Jonathan
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check www.twt.to
They seem to be quite helpful and informative.
also, pay attention to the roll-and-slip factor - a wider tread makes a big difference to grip (will the car slide, or roll if pushed too hard), handling, fuel economy etc.
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When I bought my Astra Mk 2 16V rally car there was a slack handfull of BMW series 3 steel wheels with it, which I used with loose surface tyres.
To digress slightly they were not much use as any severe pothole distorted the rim and the tyre deflated. They could take a side impact better than an alloy which would simply break but the alloys took forces across the diameter much better.
So BMW series 3 wheels fit Vauxhalls and Vauxhall alloys don't fit Fords as far as I am aware. I am sure I've seen Peugot 4 stud alloys fitted to a Ford.
It is important to check the inset of the wheel ( the distance between the hub mating surface and the inner edge of the wheel ) and brake caliper clearences.
As Jonathon states check with the insurer as any unotified modifications could well invalidate the policy!
Andrew.
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Good call, Andrew!
Also, Richard, it would be wise to check the make-up of the brake pads themselves.
In an earlier thread, about pressure cleaning, somebody wrote about the filth brake pads produce, and how hard it is to clean off of wheels.
I've found through bitter experience that them wheels sure look nice, but are a shocker to clean!
I bought a 'mag wheel brush', but actually found an old lavatory brush works better!
and yes, lockable wheelnuts are a neccessity! Go for the proper ones with a key, not the type which needs a special socket adaptor to loosen. the villains know all about them, and keep a set - there are only limited patterns.
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Be careful the wheels arn't worth more than the car.
Get locking wheel nuts as the combination you are describing seems to attract lowlife!
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I know Morris marina wheels are a good upgrade on a Triumph Herald, limited use now I guess.
David
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Crikey, David - I never thought there was anything useful on my Marina. I never gave the wheels a thought.
Ian
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There are several important factors you need to check when fitting alloy wheels.
First, make absolutely certain that the hub fitting is correct (the hole in the middle of the alloy should fit tightly on the hub). If it doesn't, you risk severe vibration through the steering.
Second, the offset of the wheel. Too small and you risk fouling the brakes or rubbing against the wheel arch on full lock.
Third, the size of the wheel. Big alloys with rubber-band tyres look great, but the car will probably tramline, aquaplane and make the ride unbearably hard, as there will be reduced flexing of the tyre sidewall. The tyre could also rub against the wheel arch, although this is more a problem with lowered suspension.
A few years ago, I bought a set of alloys for my '89 Cavalier SRi. The dealer which I bought them from claimed they were suitable. They were marked VW/Audi, and bolted on okay, but when the car hit 60mph, the steering began to vibrate. It turned out that the hub on the wheel was 1mm to big for the Cav's hub, and only the wheel bolts were holding the wheel in position. Suffice to say the wheels where promptly removed.
Fitting alloys may seen easy, but believe me, it isn't.
Andy
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Bigger wheels would also cause a false speedo reading.
Faster than you think!
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Important point from alwyn. Make sure you do not alter the overall circumferance of the wheel or speedo will not read correctly.
Mind you after all the advice above I suspect you are rapidly changing your mind and thinking about a cd player for godsons car instead!!
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Matt wrote:
>
> Important point from alwyn. Make sure you do not alter the
> overall circumferance of the wheel or speedo will not read
> correctly.
>
> Mind you after all the advice above I suspect you are rapidly
> changing your mind and thinking about a cd player for godsons
> car instead!!
Or maybe a pressure washer and set him up in car valeting? ;-)
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And how do you work out whether you have altered the circumference of the wheel? Here's what I do. You need a calculator:
First, take the wheel diameter in inches and multiply by 25.4 to give diameter in mm.
Next, take the tyre size. 185/70R13 means the tyre is 185mm wide, the sidewall height is 70% of the width, and it fits a 13 inch wheel. So take the sidewall height (in this case 70% of 185mm), multiply by two, and add to the wheel diameter. You now have the outside diameter of the tyre.
Finally, multiply it by 3.142 to get the rolling circumference (remember that from school?).
Example; you have 175/70R13 tyres and want to know the effect on the speedo of upgrading to 185/60R14 on new alloys.
Old tyres - diameter is (13 x 25.4) + 2 x (175 x 70%) = 575.2 mm
Circumference is 575.2 x 3.142 = 1807 mm
New tyres - diameter is (14 x 25.4) + 2 x (185 x 60%) = 577.6 mm
Circumference is 577.6 x 3.142 = 1815 mm
Percentage increase in distance travelled on new tyres (and therefore increase in speedo reading) is (1815 - 1807)/1807 x 100 = 0.4%.
Conclusion - going from 175/70R13 to 185/60R14 won't affect your speedo enough to notice.
Hope this helps someone, somewhere.
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Not enough to notice? Hmmmmm.
Whilst you have your calculator out, can you tell us the difference in speed between a brand new tyre, lets say 185/65R 15 and the same tyre with 1.6mm of tread?
Thanks
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alwyn writes
Sod the speed! (can I say that, Martyn?)
Worry about trivial matter like roadholding, aquaplaning etc.
Excuse me sounding like a puritan, but I change the opel tyres at 2.5mm. But then again, until you've driven in torrential rain ....
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Pal of mine has brother in Durban. He says they love Jo'burg cars..no rust.
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Jo'burg cars are great for that - but the only problem id they need retuning when they hit the coast, as they are tuned for 6000ft!
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Confronted with BMW 'classic' cross-spoked alloys I quickly worked out the most effective way of cleaning intricate designs is a large-ish kitchen bottle brush with most of the handle cut off, mounted in a battery drill; NO 240v near water please! Fun for the sad people!
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Alwyn
The answer surprised me. Depends how much tread is on a new tyre, but if you start with 10mm tread, the decrease in circumference is 2.7%, which is about 2 mph difference in speedo reading at an indicated 70 mph (I think). I didn't think it would be that much.
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Hi Richard,
I got it to 4%.
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Richard,
I suggest you buy him some "plastic alloy" wheel trims (Halfords for example cost from £15 to £30). These are easy to install (use plastic tie wraps to retain),
don't need expensive new tyres fitted (do the old ones need replacing, because they will have to be if you buy alloys) and don't get expensively "trashed" when the young driver "kerbs" them.
It is easy to start of with a cheap car and spend a fortune making it look something else but not adding a penny in value to it.
Save the £300 towards the next car, a good service, a course of car maintenance, a set of tools and a Haynes manual.
Good luck!
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Tony,
I was biting my tongue before commenting on alloys for a 1.1L car ...Maybe I'm just jealous - my first motor was a bog-standard Mk2 Cortina 1.6 AT, 15 yrs old (and about 5th hand) when I got it ...
it wasn't pretty, but it went ...
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I still have and drive my first car.
A Jeep CJ2A. My father bought it new the year I was born (1948) and gave it to me in a non running condition when I was 15 so that I would learn how things works and have something to drive when I turned 16...
I took all to bits and put it back together that year (it needed a new flat head and piston rings and some gear box work and some pop rivet work on the body and a new cluch and the brakes needed work and the stering kit needed renewal and the fuel pump needed rebuilding and the water pump and the radiator
(cause of cracked head that had put it out of service was the botom mount radiator core falling to bits in the middle of nowhere... hose run from one side of water pump to the other... after run home bonnett lifted in the dusk to see the head glowing red... buckets of water dumped on same to keep engine from freezing up when turned off... after the steam cleared many crackes in the head but engine still running on about 2 pots!)
I learned about cars from that machine It had about 75,000 miles when I got it and has over 265,000 miles on it now... it is my summer daliy driver.
~R
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Yeah, but someone tell me whats the real point of alloys? OK til you kerb them I suppose ...
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Manythanks everyone. Looks like XR3 ones after all. I have the "roll and slip" firmly in mind.
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Real point of alloys is, if they are lighter than steel wheels, they reduce unsprung weight and improve handling; unfortunately some of the more decorative efforts are not even lighter!
Has the lad heard of this notion, and set his heart on it? because if not I'd suggest something like a fancy watch. Or a nice respray, even, would not trouble the insurers.
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Or, indeed, just a set of good tyres?
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IM sorry, the idea is great, but could anyone get excited about being given 4 Pirelli P6000s for his birthday? I couldnt, u'd have fun wrapping them up too. Just think what his conversations with his mates would be like, yeah got a right cool set of tyres. Hmm, anyway you have cheered me up for the night, and I shall goto bed happy
Hur Hur
Kev
P.S, how coincidental I was wondering round Meadowhall [shopping centre] and there was this F1 shop selling alsorts, and the on sale, was a used F1 rain tyre, a snip at £130 quid, put it on your christmas list Tomo,
Heh heh heh
:-)
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