Hi,
53 Focus 1.8 Estate. Petrol. 45,000 miles.
I have searched and read all what I found relating to this and although I have found similar problems, some of the posts don't have a conlcusion, even on other forums.
The ABS light sometimes comes on on start up (test) and sometimes not.
It sometimes comes on and stays on or is intermittant while driving and occaisionally the brake light does the same, together or on their own. (I thought the brake warning light was just for the handbrake and fluid level.) It can also be ok for days.
Brake fluid level is ok.
I have checked the instrument cluster for signs of corrosion which there isn't, and sprayed contact cleaner on the plug before reconnection.
The ABS has worked when tried on an icy stretch of road.
This started over a year ago. I was lucky it was ok on the day of the last MOT, it is due again in December and I don't want to trust luck this time.
It seems on reading some of these posts that it is a bit hit and miss with garages not being able to diagnose it, and changing expensive electronic modules without cure. A road I can't really afford to down.
Did anyone find a cure to their problems which they never reported back on, or did they keep forking out till it was fixed without really knowing what it was.
I will have to start looking this weekend, checking wiring/connections/wheel sensors etc.
What else should I be looking at?
Cheers,
Pete
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I had a near-identical problem with our 53 plate focus 1.6.
I still say that you should look harder for signs of whitish corrosion on any of the soldered joints on the instrument cluster PCB. You need to get some of the non-oily (not WD40)cleaners or meths, and an old toothbrush on these soldered joints. You need to get the cluster right out onthe bench to do thuis properly.
Maybe this procedure may help :-
(1) initial random resetting of trip meter to zero;
(2) subsequent failure of trip meter and inability to reset;
(3) intermittent flashing of ABS and brake warning lights, sometimes simultaneously and;
(4) one-off "reset" of all dials to maximum.
Attempted Solution:
Back of PCB: Remove cluster from dashboard as per Tommy's fix on p9 of this thread. (I tied a long piece of string to the tailgate release wire just in case it popped back into its hole in the dashboard.) Remove 2 rear mini-hex screws and expose rear of PCB. This is where the majority of contamination will be. On mine, there were four equally dirty areas of identical shape that coincided with the four 25mm by 10mm oblong main vent holes in the rear cluster casing. (The dirt was clearly "connecting" close-and-parallel lines on the PCB, thereby providing a potential path for random shorting.) Spray the board liberally with Maplin's PCB cleaner (code N64AN) and not WD40, the former of which is extremely volatile and designed to evaporate once wiped, the latter of which leaves its own oily residue. I used an old linen hankie and a stiff but soft paint brush (which is ideal for working in between close solder pins) to clean off any post-sprayed residues. I worked on 10mm-by-10mm areas at a time, taking care to brush lightly in the direction of (and never across) the printed circuit lines. I also used a magnifying glass to inspect slightly browned/rusted contacts, on which I gently "twiddled" a fibre-glass pencil (Maplin's code KR61R) to abrade away contaminants.
Front of PCB: Remove cluster front-cover and record all four dial-needle positions (using either masking tape or a digital camera). After recording these positions, I noted that all four of my needles were mechanically at their maximum anticlockwise limits, which proved very useful when resetting them. Prise off the needles from the four gauges (don't worry about subsequently moving the spindles ... see later). Remove 5 front mini-hex screws and printed dial card to expose the front of the PCB. Clean liberally with PCB cleaner, paying attention to the area around, and gap underneath, the push-switch that resets the trip meter if that's been causing problems. This side is more enclosed than the rear and considerably less dirty. After cleaning the front, replace the printed dial card with the 5 screws. One by one, replace the needles by putting them loosely on their spindles and gently "dialling" anticlockwise (just like the old phones, if you're as old as me!) until you meet the resistance of their natural "zero" positions. Then dial very gently anticlockwise once more until you reach the positions you recorded above, and press home. This will give a near-perfect dial reset. Reassemble in an obvious way.
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Although on the day I had a go at the first part of your solution things were ok before I started, they have now stayed ok for over a week now, so fingers crossed.
Now that it is working ok, when I first turn the key, and just before the ABS light comes on I hear a click that sounds like it is from the fuse/relay box that I am not sure if I recall when things were not ok. Could be my mind playing tricks.
Thanks for getting me to have another go.
Pete.
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