sorry Dave - my fault - I suppose I should be more accurate....possibly even CORRECT in my posts. My Dad's mate who I should add is a mechanic looked at them last week when it went in for an oil change. I believe his exact words were
"Hmm - they've still got meat on but they've bound" whatever the hell that means. I'm guessing they've not worn then? Have I bought new brake pads for nothing?
Sorry for my inaccuracy and ignorance
ADam
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"Ah...beer - my only weakness - my achilles heel if you will"
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I have done this on a Mark3 Fiesta and own a Mark 5 (which is the saem virtually as a Mark4). A Mark 5 looks easier than a Mark 3.
The Haynes manual suggests after removing the wheels all you need is a screwdriver to remove the pad springs plus a torque wrench to tigheten the guide pin bolts.
Your local library may have a manual you can borrow foc..
Or you can buy a workshop CD on ebay:-)
madf
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"Hmm - they've still got meat on but they've bound" whatever the hell that means. I'm guessing they've not worn then? Have I bought new brake pads for nothing?
This is mechanic speak for.
"still got meat" means "in my opinion they are not yet worn to the level where they need replacing"
"the've bound" means "the brakes pads are sticking in the caliper so they will wear wear out quicker"
All of this means, you would have to get the pads out to clean the caliper and pads and generally free it all up anyway, and while you have the pads out you may as well change them. So no you have not wasted money on new pads. Because they were binding, dont just change the pads, clean the calipers and sliding faces as well. DONT USE OIL.
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