June 2005
My local brake specialist can't fix this one. !!
P reg saloon with ABS. Lucas brake system.
The problem came from 'no ware', ie the system hadn't been touched prior to this.
When braking the foot pedal slowly goes to the floor. Release it and immediately press again and it feels correct / OK.
Servo is OK as pedal depresses when I start up the engine.
After switching off the engine whe vacuum is used up in 2 depressions of the pedal and the pedal feels dead firm then, which I believe is correct.
The servo check valve is working correctly, cannot hear any air leaks. Oil condition is clear & clean.
No hydraulic leaks. Fitted brand new master cylinder - no change.
Brakes have been bled about 8 times now.
Each brake circuit has been isolated in turn, still faulty.
Has anyone any ideas please. The last thing I want to do is go to the Rover main agent !!
Thank you, Vinnie. Read more
I've owned a 98 Octavia SLX for over two years now, bought used, current mileage 40,000km. I'm very happy with the performance and comfort, but not impressed with reliability. I've already had to replace the air mass sensor, two front door lock cables and a holed AC coil. An electric quirk since I had the car exists. When a high electric load such as high beams or flash is turned on, the engine hesitates very badly for a second or two, then all is OK. The same cycle is repeated after a little while. Any ideas of what could this be ? Many thanks / Ezz. Read more
Hi,
Sorry for the abbreviation above but I couldn't get evcerything in the heading.
I've owned my C220Cdi Sports Coupe since new in July 2002. Last year on holiday in France I noticed that there was a squeaking noise which appears to come from the front suspension when the car goes over some (not all) bumps. It isn't very loud (well below normal radio level) but is annoying once you spot it. It only occurs in hot weather. It went away when I returned to this country. With the warm weather it is back. As the car has only done about 18k and the warranty is about to expire any clues as to what it could be before I try the dealer, who I hope will sort it out gratis.
Thanks,
Simon
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Hi, I'm looking for some advice please.
I'm thinking of a new Vectra Hatch or Estate and quite fancy the 1.9 CDTi (150bhp)
What esperiences do people have of this engine?
How does this compare to the typical 2.0DTi and 2.2DTi engines in the Vectra.
I'm not buying new .... getting from a supermarket
Are there any problems with the Dti engines noted? Read more
The 1.9 CDTi engines are light years ahead of the DTi engines in performance, economy and particularly refinement, that being said even the 150 is no where near as torquey as the Mondeo TDCi 130 (315 nm v 350 nm) so feels less punchy on the road and has to be revved to produce it's best performance.
Also note Vauxhall have just announced a facelift Vectra so there might be deals to be had on the current model.
Regards.
I have a vectra 2003 which has started showing the brake pad wear warning light on the dash. How reliable is this sensor could it be giving a false reading? The car has done 40k
many thanks for any help
John Jennings
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Generally reliable, but you could always confirm if the pads are worn by taking a look at the front pads through the wheels to see how much meat is left on them.
Hi all
Hope someone can help. I have a 1999 2.0l petrol Bora. Recently the car was sluggish and did't want to rev. I changed the air mass meter and it was spot on for a few weeks. Then the mpg went from 40 down to 25-30 and the exhaust smelled of unburned fuel. Next I checked the output voltage of the Lambda probes, mine has two, one on the exhaust manifold and one on the Cat. I recorded 0.010v cold and they both climbed to 0.023v when the coolant indicated 90 c(normal). The Lambda probes were fitted but the electrical plugs were disconnected when I tested them. Next I spoke to VW and they said the problem is usually the air mass meter or the coolant temp sensor. I changed the temp sensor and there was no change. The car was due an M.O.T. and it failed on emmissions, M.O.T. guys suggested a local mechanic who put it on his diagnostic for a tenner, nice bloke, and it showed faults with the Lambda probes, air mass meter and coolant sensor, no suprise since I'd been dicking around with them. He cleared the faults and the car ran a treat once more, mpg back to normal and no smell of fuel. 200 miles later and the mixture is cocked again and mpg through the floor. Changed air filter and spark plugs today, have fuel filter and H.T. leads to change tomorrow, the car hasn't been back on the diagnostic yet.
Any help would be most appreciated.
Paul Read more
p.s. - if you have access to a laptop, why not see if you can get hold of a copy of VAG-COM and do your own diagnostics ?
I wouldn't want to impugn your local mechanic, but when I was having issues (2 years ago) the local dealerships were charging £35 and £60 for diagnostic checks !
Am I the first person ever to change manual gearbox oil on a 1998 civic 1.4? It certainly feels like it. Honda specify their own oil for their own gearboxes - which seems fair enough. But you just try getting hold of it. My local dealer can't provide any (unless I want 10 lifetimes supply of the stuff). Honda UK say that they only supply dealers and cannot help, even though I pointed out that if Honda make it, they must have some idea of quantities available.
The manual is vague and just says that a 10-30 mineral oil can be used in an emergency, then take the car to a Honda dealer...blah..blah. Anybody know what I can use?
thanks Read more
Years ago Honda used to use a 5W-30 or 10W-30 engine oil - however in recent years the fluid has been modified to incorporate 'friction modifiers' to improve synchromesh action. If you use engine oil (esp. a synthetic) you will find that the synchro action is poor, with baulking. Engine oil does not have the correct frictional characteristics for synchromesh action - it is too 'slippery'.
Stick to a low-viscosity friction-modified fluid (preferably a synthetic) and you will be fine. The ones I listed about will do the trick. Many factors carry the Morris Lubricants oil (or will get it for you) and it is not too badly priced.
Take my advice on this - I have spent many years playing with gearboxes and gearbox oils.
display a reg no e.g. XX05 ABC, as follows on a square number plate?
XX0
5ABC
The norm seems to be
XX05
ABC
This question would also apply to the previous reg "A123 XYZ" type no.s
and.... rather bizzarely....is it illegal to drive barefoot?
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If so, I'll use the LC to driving into London as it has square plates back and front ;-)
However the only time I would seriously consider driving into town would be the middle of the night, weekends or if I was going insane!
Can someone please advise me. I have seen a VW Passat Highline TDI (130BHP) for £12699 54 plate advertised in an non VW dealership. I have contacted them and they advised me that it was a British Spec car. On contacting my VW approved dealer to see if they could better the price, he advised that there was no way that he could better the price and at that price it must be an import and that servicing the car would be more expensive and if I where to use the warranty it might take wks/months to get fixed as it may have differant gear box for example and that when I traded it in I would get less for it. Is he talking rubbish to put it nicely or is there any truth in what he is saying. I do not want to spend £13000 on a car to find out I have bought a pup. Read more
Red I = 100 BHP
Red DI = 130 BHP
Red TDI = 150 BHP
plus various other enhancements, different pistons intercoolers etc. also is older all silver TDI which is non-PD, ie older technology.
most common is red DI- v good flexible economical powerful engine.
John
A colleague has moved in to a flat which is in the next block to the office. He currently has a 1995 Escort which is approaching 'retirement'. He used to do 60 miles per day to work and back, he now does 50 yards by foot during the week and a few miles at weekends.
His Escort is dying so he has had the idea of getting a weekend car for less than £10k. He initially thought about an American muscle car such as a Mustang as he likes the noise of a a V8 (!) but budget and other factors may prohibit.
We then went on to discuss other vehicles which may offer him something different and covered all angles - V8 Rovers, Supras, Skylines, Jaguars, Bentley, Westfield, Porsche etc.
Any other ideas of a car which would offer some weekend fun?
The other factors are:
His mechanical knowledge is limited to checking tyre pressures and the dipstick. He doesn't want to spend hours a week getting his hands dirty.
He doesn't have a garage.
All ideas will be considered! Read more
Mustang would be a hoot, with the www parts are available from the US in a week and they're not exactly complicated to repair so most garages should be able to do it if only because the mechanics will love to blip the throttle during tune-ups!
Alternatively, a second hand track car? One that's already built will be much cheaper than building it yourself so that's £5k for a car, money left for a blown engine or body repairs and lots of fun on weekends.
Browse
Dear Steve, well the garage managed it in the end. They fitted a new master cylinder and that didn,t correct it.
It was all down to air in the system. We pumped a large volume of fluid through, bleeding at each wheel and eventually it was OK.
Everything suggested a fauliy cylinder as you said.
Anyway, thanks for your help Steve. It is kind of you to reply.
Best wishes, Mark.